Crank Shaft Damage

I’ve owned for about 6 years, only put about 80,000 since owning.

 

Dont think you would of done much better......if its fucked up ...its fucked up

maybe would seen the problem.....maybe not...

 

Why are you trying to convince him this was partially damaged before the shop did the timing belt job?

He didn't have any knocking noises before the shop touched it. You're just confusing him

 

Its a good ideal to watch that HB as they age

when that rubber ring fails......wobbling HB can do a lot of damage

wobbling then causes the crank bolt to loosen up......and then all hell breaks loose

 

This is wrong. Good lord..

If the rubber separates the outer half of the balancer can wobble but that crank bolt in the middle is tight as hell and it's not going to loosen up on its own.

 

look at the mangled crank key slot.....thats not recent

 

That could easily happen in the 1,000 miles since the t-belt job

When it's not put back on correctly damage can happen quick

That crank turning thousands of times per minute. You could eat a crank on the first test drive just leaving the shop

 

thats incorrect there.....mine did

wobbled like a bitch......when you tighten it ....wouldnt tighten down.....
wobbled on the shaft at that point

with it spec'd at 217lb.....that tells you its a trouble spot


you can believe what you want to believe.......but I was there 1st person....11 o'clock at nite

 

Thank you everyone for all the insight and advice. I’m new to this forum and stoked at how quick and willing everyone is to help.

 

The whole thing wobbling at the center where the bolt is is different than the outer half wobbling in relation to the inner half (because of rubber separation)

In one post you said your pulley was wobbling because the rubber separated. Then in the next post you're saying it was wobbling because the crank bolt wouldn't properly tighten. Those are two different things

 

Some have never encountered these problems.....they not be the best to advise

 

but yeah....without more pics.......further speculation is pointless

need to see the keyway on the snout

if damage is old......you're gonna have a hard time collecting....PERIOD

 

Is that directed at me?
How many timing belt jobs have you done? Do you work on customer cars or just your own vehicles?

Genuinely curious

 

Youre in my hood...
Is the screen shot of the estimate $1700 correct?
No way Poway Toyota only wants $1700 to replace the entire crankshaft?
I find that very hard to believe....

I would not want a band-aid solution which is all youre going to get from the shop that did it....

Big question that takes know how, getting the other shop responsible to pay the bill & have Poway fix it...
Pin the shop down & hold them financially responsible, you dont feel comfortable having them to the repairs, etc...

Also from your pic you really cant see the damage of the crank slot for the keyway, not the pest pics

My "bestie" from highschool is actually the service manager at Poway...

 

Couple of options, he can pay for the repairs, buy the truck or choose door 3. Door 3 is legal proceedings.

How long ago was the original repair done? A statute of limitations has started.

Before you go to Shop 1, the original shop, do your homework, you are preparing for court. Check the BBB on the shop for ownership information, check the BAR for information. There are satelite County Accessor sites through out San Diego County, you can check for law suits filed against Shop 1 ands its ownwership and if you have the owners name, business address etc you should be able to find out if they are a sole owner, a corporation etc.
If you go storming into the shop demanding either $9k or satisfaction you will get no where. The unfortunate thing is that small claims has a dollar limit and this exceeds it so any monitary recovery is limited.

Small claims court is a prepondurance of the evidence court meaning that the more paperwork you have supporting your position, the better. The courts are consumer oriented and you will win, enough to fix the truck, dunno. Winning the case is one thing collecting is another. The best case scenario is that the shop has not incorporated and that means that the owner(s) personal assets are at risk. With in ownership information you gathered when you did your homework you as the judge for an abstract of judgement, this is a shortened document that you take the the county accessors office and file it against all his real property in San Diego County, there will be a dollar amount attched to it. Shop 1's owner will not be able to refinace, sell or do anything finacal with his propertie(s) if he owns any until this judgemnent is satisfied. The best part is that this judgement grows at 10% per year.

The BEST part and I mean the BEST part is you give him a month or 2 and request from the court a Judgement Debtors exam (JDX). Both you and the defendant are subpoenaed to appear before a representative of the court, if he doesnt show, you ask for a bench warrant and if/when the local police/sherffis do a liscense plate scan a want/warrant will pop up and they will arrest him for FTA, failure to appear, with any luck, this will be friday night and he gets to spend the weekend in holding. Is this being overly harsh, depends on your point of view, when people owe you tens of thousands of dollars, over and over, you get rather jaded to their perspective.

If he does show for the JDX he has to explain to the court why he cant pay and prove it. You get to instruct the court for him/them to turn over any cash they have on them and if they have credit cards on them the bailiff will escort them to the ATM in the lobby to take out the maximum amount and turn that over to the court too. The justice system in the US is not perfect but it does "work" if you know how to work it.

Is this a pain in the rear, yes, but remember this, you have as many rights as you are willing to defend/protect/etc.

 

No I would not work on these 1st gens for love or money

there are too many things that age, home mechanics and bad garages have inflicted on these

risky at best


found out early in life taking old cars/trucks to garages is a can of worms
.....setting yourself up for a butt load of pain


I've seen where they lost the LBJ.....and the garage missed the crimped break line

 

For some interesting reading you might try Miata.net and search for 'short nose crank' and in their garage find a solution from Lance Schall.

Many early Miatas would have ragged keyways for a number of reasons, the most often being a crank bolt that was not properly torqued. Lance worked with Loctite to develop a well proven solution. There's many an older Miata that will still bang the 7k limiter that have been fixed this way.

 

Then maybe you aren't the best guy to advise

 

I do know this...there are several trouble spots that can cost you an engine

.....this is one of them


Your accusing the shop of incompetence......good chance thats not the case
especially if they do toyotas all the time


also.... where the book times go out the window....there's most always gonna be impediments
thats where the risk comes in......if there's problems the shop gets more $
but not the mechanic....he's losing

because of this the dealers and garages have lost their best mechanics....they said fuck that


I respect everybody here immensely.......I need you guys way more than you need me

however saying that bolt cannot back off....is ridiculous
you cant get an impact gun in there

and dont need a rebuttal......I'm done

Sorry to trash your thread


Again....need more pics.....inquiring minds want to know, now we're invested

On mine 3rz....cheapest fix was $350 reman crank

it looks the ones for 5vz run about $100 cheaper

Toyota 5VZ 3.4 Crankshaft 1995-2004 | eBay

I ended up getting a reman short block w/2yr wty for $800......pre covid


Mines on its 3rd engine at only 180K
what does that tell you.....bunch of f#$)&ing idiots screwed the other two up

nobody touches the truck now....except for tire mounting

 

Ditto on this ^^^ no one touches my stuff, I let my Ranger sit for 9 months until I transfered my shop to my place 25 miles north. 4.0 SOHC for those who have experience with these time bombs. I have multiple trucks so there is no issue with my daily driver being down for a period of time. The OP did everything right, has one of the most reliable trucks made, the others IMHO are the Hilux and Nissans D24 with the 4 cyl Napz motor, anyway, he is in a very tough position and there is no easy way out.