Crank wants to catch, but no start

Hey all,

I have a 2009 V6 6-speed I bought last year with 61K on it now. I first joined the forum a couple weeks back because I have a new valve train noise which will require me to dig deep into her, but I need to tell you how the noise came about. My truck got Lava hot without me knowing it. The part that holds the worm gear on the lower radiator hose clamp rusted off and basically drained the motor. Because of this the temperature gauge never read over temp as there was no hot water touching it. When I got to the plaza I was going to it was stalling, and I thought something was loose because there was a rattle. I now know it was preignition making the noise. Once I parked and popped the hood I quickly saw the water on the crossmember and saw the hose laying there.

Since then there has been a notable valve tic, and it runs a little rough. There has also been an odd other pattern of issues. I was getting a flashing check engine light with the traction control light below it illuminating constantly. When this happened you could not get full acceleration like the traction was restricting the amount you could press on the gas. I used my scanner and got a 305 code (random miss fire on cylinder 5). When I cleared it out it ran fine. A day or two later it happened again but with a 304 code. This happened one other time as well. But yesterday I tried to start it and it cranks, and once in a while sounds like it wants to catch then goes back to cranking. It initially had a 300 code for random misfires on multiple cylinders. I cleared the code but it still will not start, but has not generated any new codes.

I am not sure if all events are connected or not. It sounds like maybe crank sensor or something. Any ideas of what it could be, and how to test things would be greatly appreciated. I need to get this sorted so I can move on to tearing in to measure the clearances and get her back running as she should.

Thanks,
Dave

 

Depending on how hot you could have done major damage. May need a motor. You will get all sorts of diagnoses, without some tear down and inspecting it will be guessing.

You check the oil? Any signs of antifreeze in the oil? Leaking head gaskets? Heads may be warped. Smoke out the exhuast?

 

Coolant getting in the cylinders and or compression escaping the cylinders would cause your issue especially as hot as it sounds like you got it.
Pull your plugs and see if any are wet and look in the cylinders for coolant, it sounds like you blew a head gasket or cracked/warped a head.

 

Dam $2.00 part failure .

 

pull the plugs..............do NOT jumble keep them in order

plugs out do a cold compression test wide open throttle

write down numbers in order

 

Ouch

 

Update on findings so far, absolutely no coolant in oil and no visible leaks. I cranked it this morning and pulled the passenger side plugs. All were soaking wet, and I am getting spark. I have to search for my compression gauge and will try that later after my granddaughter gets up from her nap. I am leaning towards a timing issue, or a load of busted rings and most likely timing is my guess. Like I said it ran fine, and had actually seemed up to full power, just the tic, and rough idle.

 

‘ running fine ‘ does NOT equate when a bank o plugs are dripping wet

bad timing is likely

a compression test a priority

 

I agree, about an hour away from being able to test compression….I shall return.

 

that's not the OEM part either, someone was in there before and replaced the original spring clamp with one of those worm clamps that look to be of cheaper variety.

 

Yeah, I think this truck spent it's life close to the seashore. Lots of unprotected metal items real crusty, even the bolts that hold the coils to the valve cover. Not something you would expect to rust like that They replaced the frame when I got it but so much has corroded. The upper factory clamp is very scaly and I will be replacing all very soon.

 

I have done the compression test, and while not stellar, I don't think it is the reason for the no start issue. Here's what I got:

Right bank Cyl 1 90psi, Cyl 3 100psi, Cyl 5 70psi
Left Bank Cyl 2 100psi, Cyl 4 110psi, Cyl 6 110psi

Any ideas on next steps are appreciated. Perhaps testing crank sensor?

 

the crank sensor typically set at factory not usauly the culprit unless tampered with

the engine would run tho have a ruff idle

that plus the plugs being wet on the 1 bank is UNusual

 

Leak-down test is next.

 

I only noted wet plugs on one side because I only checked the easy side at that point. I had cranked it plenty without start just before I checked that. Once they were out I confirmed I was getting spark. So I know I have gas getting to the cylinder, and spark, I am assuming that despite the off compression test, it would not be reason enough to not start. If I wanted to check timing how would I do so at this point. I am guessing it is all off the crank sensor, and or cam timing?

 

Would a poor leak down test be indicative of continuous cranking without firing. It would crank with no response and every 4 or 5 turns have a little jump like it is trying to catch then go back to cranking until the next little jump in the rhythm.

 

compression not good for Only 61k miles

engine should crank/run tho lumpy uneven idle

ignition might be off ...............cam timing might be off

 

I am suspect that continuous cranking and washing the cylinders with gas may be adding to the compression decrease. I plan to check again once I have it running. As far as Ignition and cam timing, is there any easy way to check one or the other. I am guessing I need to tear down past the valve covers to see cam timing. Maybe is there a way to check tensioners to make sure the chains are tight?

Also remember I drove it and parked it one evening, and the next day this cranking only issue began. Something had to jump, or fail during that cold crank. I have been thinking the random errors, and the funky traction control fault that were appearing before this no start situation are pointing to an electronics based issue?

 

Your compression is low across the board. Should be about 180.

Spark plugs could be wet from the fuel, and continued attempts at starting. Basically fuel wash.

Inspect and clean the plugs, or worst case, replace them.

Might need to drain the oil if it has too much fuel in it.

Pull the full pump relay. (Brown) Crank to get good oil circulation and film on cylinders. A fresh fill of oil should equate to a better compression on the test. If the current oil has too much fuel in it.

Check compression again. Look for gains.

Then with cleaned or fresh plugs, put the fuel pump relay back in and start.

 

On that note of random misfires, I have had the ceramic break on plugs before, causing intermittent misfires.