Cranks, but no start 08 Tacoma 2.7L 5 lug base model

And to be clear you still have no CEL with the key on and no communication with the ECM?

 

Thats correct.

 

Ok lets start checking the 5v ref (VC) circuit, E4 pin 18 Blue and E8 pins 26 red and 27 blue/white should have 5v with the key on.

 

Can definitely confirm no immobilizer, I have a 2010 5 lug.

Not too up on the fuse box and the prior posts about electrical..but I know I've heard something about the IGN fuse..1 or 2 maybe. I remember one person looked at the fuse and it looked fine but turned out to be junk. Can't hurt to swap in a branny new fuse I suppose.

 

Tested all 3, no voltage (E4 pin 18 had .449v)

 

Ok I think we're getting somewhere hopefully, follow the steps in this chart and lets cross our fingers it's just a shorted sensor.

 

What is the CANISTER PUMP MODULE?

 

The leak detection pump/pressure sensor, it is part of the charcoal canister.

 

Nothing changed working on step 6 now

 

Are you cycling the key in between unplugging things? Sometimes ECM needs to be power cycled if there's a short in the Ref circuit before it will come back to life.

 

Yes several times.
no resistance on any thing but E8 pin 26, but it wasn't close to spec

 

I'm sorry Alex, that's incorrect. You're verifying continuity, but you are NOT necessarily verifying a good ground. You need a 1-2 amp load, such as an incandescent lamp. LEDs use so little current that even a very sketchy ground may show good.

 

Got to be missing something here, you unplugged all sensors outlined in the chart and retested for 5v with a multimeter?

You may be onto something unless he tested key on with the ECM plugged in and therefore "loaded circuit".

 

Just for grins do you still have the old ECM to plug in and see if we get the same results?

 

Wouldn’t no resistance mean it’s being grounded?
If I’m reading step 6 correctly, you’re looking for a short to ground?

What seems odd is, you have multiple showing no resistance?

 

When looking for a short to ground on a wire idealy you would like to see OL Mohms on your meter (0 ohms would be a short), manual says 10 Mohms or greater.

 

Curious why OP would have 0 Resistance in step 6 of the file in your post #46 above?
What would cause 0 resistance? And at that on 2 out 3?
And the other one “isn’t close”?

Maybe I don’t understand exactly what we’re checking?
It seems to me it just the wiring harness?

It possible I am reading it wrong, i quickly read over this post.
It’s been a long day. 2 tress cut and hauled. I’m beat. 1 of which was right next to the house.
Definitely in need of a “mental break”.

 

Depends on your definition of no resistance, 0 ohms on a meter would indicate a short, OL indicates an open circuit (no short).
Main reason I prefer an incandescent test light over a DVOM is Ohm and Voltage testing isn't always definitive, with a light you are at least putting some load on the circuit (depending on how big of light you have, I have a 5 amp headlight bulb I use for testing power/ground feeds and motor/lighting circuits and a standard test light for driver and short to ground testing).

Mainly trying to check powers and ground's at the PCM and check for a shorted 5v Ref circuit which could also potentially cause a no comm and no CEL.

And with that I am too, I'm off to bed.

 

My definition in this case would mean a short.
Now, what is OP’s.

And yes, I do agree. Maybe OP should check it with a test light.

 

I'm going to redo the test this morning and report back.