Cranks but no start

It's garbage is what it is.

It may light up, sure, but that doesn't tell you if they are receiving the proper voltage and ground delivery you need.

A scope of the injectors ALWAYS reveals if they are working properly electrically or not.

 

Kind of like LED test lights can give “false positives” for voltage.

 

Exactly. The only things I believe in are scopes, integrated voltmeter power probes, and DVOMs.

 

OP isnt coming back

 

Thanks for the info! I was too lazy to look them up. I usually use a Meter or a scope.

 

That’s what sucks about these threads, we never find out what the solution was to help others when they search for threads to help them solve issues.

 

That's when you know it was something embarrassing, like they ran out of gas or left something unplugged

 

prolly using a valet key.

 

My valet key allows total use of the car, you just can’t use it to program another key. Grey head vs. black head.

 

Valet guy has to be able to start the truck to park it

 

Thanks for all the responses, I will replay to all so we can possibly find an answer.

The engine is a 1GR-FE

The Maxsys scan tool shows no codes. it is clean.

The IGN fuses are good

to clarify,

I pulled the left side injectors and put a NOID light on them then I pulled the coil pack and connected a spark plug and touched to the block and cranked. there was a spark. did not check the other side. Disconnected the fuel line at the engine and it shot out like a geyser when cranking.


It has a plain plastic chip key, (Tested good), the lighted indication of an immobilizer on the center console, or "key" icon. blinks and goes out when I put the key in.


The engine does turn over I can see the belts turning.


We have a Maxsys scan tool, Is there any area that I could look at that could shed some light on this


When cranking the TB shuts tightly closed.


I don't think it could be an ECU since I get a check engine light on the dash and from what i understand, if a ECU is bad, you wont get that light. If I am wrong, let me know about that.


Thanks for the help so far

 

Are you feathering the gas pedal when you crank it? Maybe the throttle body is gummed up

 

Check and make sure you get an STA signal from the PCM when cranking to start. If that indicator is not there you have a bad PCM.

Have someone put their hand on the intake boot or the TB as you crank... Is the engine sucking in air? If so you can move on to spark.

Check spark with a spark tester is there a good inch of spark output? If so you can move on to fuel.

43.7 psi of fuel at the rail? If so you can move on to testing for proper injector pulse WITH A SCOPE, NOT A NOID LIGHT!

 

Please do me and yourself a favor and check the battery and or connections. If connections are good Try jumping battery when starting. Like I said before this sounds exactly like what happened to another member here. Yes I know it doesn’t make sense to me.
Other than that it could be a crank or cam positions sensors. Similar thing happened to my wife’s xterra but dealer diagnosed it as the vehicle never threw a CEL. I forget the term they used but it was stored in the ECM or something like that. Good luck getting it running!

 

You know, I blew the tab on the ground strap ring to The core support on mine. Caused issues.

 

The battery has a full charge and i connected an aux/jumper battery to it and still no start.

On a whim, I changed the cam position sensors and still will not start. I am not sure if the crank sensor or cam sensor would cause this issue.

I am going to get a compression tester to see if I am getting cam rotation.

My next check will mean tearing off the manifold and check all 6 coils and injectors.


Any other ideas?

 

Both or either of these sensors will cause a crank but no fire scenario. When this happened to wife’s car I thought it was fuel related. I was way off. My moms truck had the crank sensor go out and the symptoms were exactly the same.

 

It’s having an identity crisis. It identifies as a Ford.

 

in a low tech approach,

I took the manifold off and cranked, All injectors are spraying I can see it. The timing chain is moving. the coils on the left are sparking with a test plug touching the valve cover. the right 3 coils do not seem to be firing but I had to stop the testing and do something else. Put the battery on a charger and will test the right side coils in the morning.


from what I gather from everyone, it is now down to the crank sensor or an ECU.

Would a Bad ECU only fail the right side plugs and give the symptoms I am seeing?

if I was getting fuel, air, and spark on the left side, would I not have the engine have partial firing?



Thanks Guys