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Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement? P0018 OBD Code

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Tacoma0718, Sep 9, 2013.

  1. Sep 29, 2013 at 9:59 PM
    #21
    Toyotacerttech

    Toyotacerttech Well-Known Member

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    I don't think the chain has jumped, most likely it has a faulty ocv could be stuck closed.
     
  2. Oct 7, 2013 at 7:21 PM
    #22
    2 tacomas

    2 tacomas Slightly Sane

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    I've lost count....
    Any updates on your problem?

    The similar issue I had with my 2006 Tacoma (random vibration from engine when coming to a stop or while stopped) started to become more prevalent early last week. It was throwing code P0011 about once every other day and also P0016 randomly. I replaced my passenger side Oil Control Valve (OCV) on Friday and that fixed my problem. All vibrations have stopped and no codes have been thrown since.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2013
  3. Oct 14, 2013 at 7:58 AM
    #23
    Tacoma0718

    Tacoma0718 [OP] Member

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    What could cause the OCV to fail or get stuck?

    I took it to a Toyota dealer--they said the same thing.. That it was out of time. They wanted $300 just to pull the valve covers and take a look. So that's when I told them I was going to go a different route. Hopefully I'll be able to get it looked at this weekend.

    Other than a stretched chain, missing/broke tooth, or a bad ECM, what could cause a motor to get out of time?

    Sorry for the delayed response.
     
  4. Oct 14, 2013 at 10:51 AM
    #24
    Tacoma0718

    Tacoma0718 [OP] Member

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    Yeah, I haven't thought about that but it makes sense. Thanks for the input.
     
  5. Oct 14, 2013 at 3:05 PM
    #25
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    A bad hydraulic chain tensioner will cause it to jump time.
     
  6. Dec 5, 2013 at 7:40 PM
    #26
    Tacoma0718

    Tacoma0718 [OP] Member

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    Just to update everyone....I ended up taking it to a local shop (not a dealer). He pulled the valve covers and determined that the variable valve timing gear had a "cleat" on it that broke off, throwing the timing off. After a new gear and $542.32 later, my truck is running as it should.

    unnamed.jpg
    unnamed (1).jpg
    unnamed (2).jpg
     
    GilbertOz likes this.
  7. Dec 5, 2013 at 7:47 PM
    #27
    wrmathis

    wrmathis Dark Lord of the Sith

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    parts and stuff
    i had the same issue for the most part. never could figure out what it was. mostly was havin a low oil pressure. anyways i replaced my engine and while doing that dropped the oil pan and it looked like i was mining for gold in that thing. flakes all over. atleast u caught yours fast enough to figure out what was wrong before an engine replacement. oh and u can see the oil pain in my build thread on one of the last few pages
     
  8. Mar 21, 2017 at 1:31 AM
    #28
    dsignrguy

    dsignrguy Member

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    My truck just did this. wondering if I should replace the timing chain while I've got everything apart (had to take off the front cover to find the broken off piece)? did they replace the timing chain? have you had any more issues? I did notice the new gear now has an extra spoke on part that broke off, leading me to believe this happens enough that Toyota redesigned the part.
     
  9. Apr 7, 2017 at 11:31 AM
    #29
    Dimebag

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    Hey BamaToy. Just sent you a private message. I am having these same issues at the moment and would love to come by sometime and see if you could take a look at my X-Runner. I also live in Navarre.
     
    BamaToy1997[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Mar 8, 2023 at 5:30 PM
    #30
    Carlos91010

    Carlos91010 New Member

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    I'm trying to replace the crankshaft position sensor as well. When I try to remove the a/c compressor, the pressurized freon begins to spray out. I looked on youtube on how to evacuate the freon, but it looks like I need a special contraption tool to do that. All I'm trying to do is replace the cps. Do I need to go buy that evac tool now too?
     
  11. Mar 8, 2023 at 6:34 PM
    #31
    TnShooter

    TnShooter The TacomaWorld Stray

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    I”d leave the lines hooked up to the compressor and just swig it out of the way.
    No need to disconnect them.
     
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  12. Mar 8, 2023 at 6:37 PM
    #32
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    I've done it, it's REALLY hard with the compressor in the way.

    You have to unbolt the compressor, remove the studs, and slide it out of the way.

    Then by feel unclip the connector to the crank sensor. Then unbolt it.

    I chewed my hands up pretty good. Best part is, I wasn't changing it, but rather checking it. It was fine.
     
    GilbertOz and TnShooter like this.
  13. Mar 8, 2023 at 6:48 PM
    #33
    TnShooter

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    Don’t you just love when you do all that work for nothing.
    I hate when that happens.
     
  14. Mar 8, 2023 at 6:52 PM
    #34
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    It was a corroded ECU on a 4runner. Stupid stupid rare to call ECU's on 4runner 1GR and I didnt trust the diagnoses that it was failing so I doubled down.

    Now I know if it looks like a duck and sounds like a duck. Open the ECU to check condition.
     
    GilbertOz and TnShooter[QUOTED] like this.
  15. Mar 8, 2023 at 6:56 PM
    #35
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    I'd be checking it at the PCM with a scope or at the very minimum ohm testing it at the PCM before I went to all that work to get at it.
     
  16. Mar 8, 2023 at 7:00 PM
    #36
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    Thats the one I sent a picture of awhile back, I had pico graphs, they were deadly.

    We were thinking green death, because the code would trigger with heat.

    Clean graphs, good correlation, quack, ecu, quack.
     
    Dm93[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Mar 8, 2023 at 7:15 PM
    #37
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    Ah, cam & crank sensor's rarely seem to fail on Toyota's too. I can't recall ever putting a cam or crank sensor in a Toyota vehicle but just about every other make I have.
     
  18. Mar 9, 2023 at 8:45 AM
    #38
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Don't vent it off to to the open. You can take it to an AC shop to have it evacuated if you truly want to remove the compressor. Cheaper than buying the tool needed to capture and recharge the R134a.

    The other posts above have good advice.
     
    Dm93 likes this.

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