Crazy clutch problem, maybe solve with explosives?

Ok, here it goes. Yes I have searched, (here and the entire internet database). 1996 taco, 2.4, 2wd standard cab, 5 speed 86000 miles, bone stock, well maintained. I noticed here about a month ago it was getting hard to get in gear at a stop. The shop said it needed a new clutch, suspect pressure plate or disk seperation issue. Clutch and pressure plate as well as pilot and throwout were replaced with exedy clutch kit. Problem was not solved, finally got to where I had to shut truck off to put in gear. And creeps with clutch pedal on floor. thorough check of the system found a slightly leaking master. Could have been problem all along. It was replaced and system bled, pedal adjusted. Started the truck, pushed the clutch, went for a gear and unable to get it into one without being violent with shifter. Shut it off and it falls into any gear I want. Replaced slave and one steel line that looked iffy, no dice. Checked clutch pedal mounting for cracks or breaks, it goodPulled trans back out and inspected clutch and everything, had flywheel machined for kicks and reassembled everything. Fired it up and went for a gear, I can get 2nd with a clunk but first or reverse takes a good shove on the shifter and sometimes grinds, and truck still creeps seems better though, at least I can leave in second! Removed master and slave again, emptied, and started over like new, bench bled master, reinstalled everything gravity bled, vaccuum bled, and pressure bled, still same problem, the only thing not brand spanking new is the rubber line, however its not swelling, this was verified with micrometer with and without clutch pushed. I adjusted stroke on master so it would give max push just to test and no change, measured at clutch fork (which was inspected by me and found no bending or cracks) shows 5/8 inch stroke

 

So now im at a loss, is that a normal spec for fork travel at the slave? I really need some input or a link to follow. My first tacoma and im thinking what a huge mistake it was to buy it. Thanks in advance for any help I have no where else to look as I know noone with a toyota truck to look at for comparison

 

I'm at a complete loss here but do wanna know what the outcome is... basically this is a bump for those even more mechanically inclined than you or I to think about it

 

Thanks, im just a teeny bit upset that it worked great and now is a planter box eating up my money. I would think witj everything new it would work. Guess I thought wrong lol

 

Sorry you're having this problem, but I'm hoping it's not a problem with the tranny.

 

Me too. But it shifts good if you float it after your rolling. It also has no odd noises, just seems that the clutch drags/ doesnt disengage.

 

Was the input shaft clean no rust or burrs and did the disc slide on it easy. I have seen this happen before, were the disc drags on the shaft. One other thing that can cause that, is the pilot bushing. If it was hard to push in the end of the crank, it maybe just enough smaller to drag.

 

Shaft clean and shiny, pilot is a new sealed roller bearing. Fit everything great, trans went right in with no binding, thanks

 

I would think that after having the transmission out twice , you should have nailed the issue . Have never heard of the exedy clutch you installed but that would be the first place to look at judging by your explanation . Sounds as if you have covered all known hyrdraulic assist clutch problems .
Before I point at the clutch , did you take the time to match everything up with the clutch that was in the truck ? Aftermarket clutches are well known for telling you it will work but when you install it , it doesnt work . Sometimes the throw out bearing is incorrect , sometimes the pressure plate is incorrect and sometimes the entire kit is incorrect . Ask me why I double check the new clutch in comparison to the old one . Been caught too many times . Any chance you still have the old one or did it go for core ?

 

Shop put clutch in, I didnt get old parts. I searched online and exedy was recommended on a couple different toyota truck forums. I called a few different parts stores and asked about the exedy kit for it and they all gave me same part number, which matches what I have.

 

That is a problem we sometimes see on BMW Airhead motorcycles...a slight binding of the clutch disk on the input shaft, corrected with a bit of Honda moly 60 on the input shaft splines.

If it was me, I would pull it apart again and check for mechanical binding on the clutch splines to input shaft or unusual wear marks between the clutch disk, pressure plate and flywheel.

Howard

 

I wonder if the shop warped your pressure plate by improper tightening sequence. Kinda like happens with rotors,drums. Maybe weak wire retainer on fork(release lever). High temp grease applied to ball stud pocket,fork ends,pushrod pocket on fork.

 

Whei I had it apart I checked the fit of the disk on shaft and everything. I thought about drilling an inspection hole in bellhousing so I could look at it when clutch is pushed. Anyone done this?

 

Thats an odd one.

Being hard to shift, it makes me think a shift lever ball seat as these seem to be a common issue with not getting into gear. Another simple thing to check is the gear oil that you're using.

Alot of members here like Redline but seeing as you're from Il, Redline doesn't have a very good cold weather shear strength. Personally, I use Amsoil Severe Gear. The reason I bring up oil is that mine was very difficult to shift into first and third gear. Not sure what was in there before (probably factory) and the Amsoil drastically improved the shifting.

However, the fact that it still creeps when out of gear tells me that either its bad oil or a worn bearing causing some transfer of power even if not in gear.

 

Perhaps I should be more clear, typing on my phone so I tend to make things short, it only creeps whe in gear with engine running and clutch pedal pushed down. And it goes into all gears fine with engine off. Start it up and push clutch down, shove it into first it creeps forward, go to reverse it goes backward. If you have the slightest incline it wont pull against it, it dont creep that hard but on level ground it sure does. The oil is shell. I dont think thats the problem since it used to work fine.

 

I would like to thank everyone so far, never before have I found a forum where the people are polite and helpful with fast responses. Usually they either just wanted to make you feel stupid, or argue about everything. Thanks for your help so far!

 

Just as a maybe,,, I had an 83 toy that did the same thing when I changed the clutch, after three in & outs found that the pressure plate was wrong (wrong part in rite part number box). After we found that out and got the rite pres. plate it went together and worked like it should

 

Your clutch is dragging...time to pull it apart and ensure parts are correct...sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the dragging is the key.

I use FLAP gear oil by the five gallon bucket. In the winter, it needs a few hundred yards to warm up and shift smoothly, but that is NORMAL.

The only thing I buy special gear lube for is the Sure-Grip brand Limited Slips in the 62 Dodge Town Wagon and the 68 Utiline Pickup...

 

Thats what ive bern thinking too, wondering if I should just shell out for one from dealer.

 

That's what makes this site the best!! Lots of knowledge and people that actually enjoy helping others.Eventually someone will hit the nail on the head.lol
what' up gearcruncher. I bet you got this.haha