1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Creaking and play when push/pull wheel side to side, not up and down

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by tompac, Jun 23, 2017.

  1. Jun 23, 2017 at 2:26 PM
    #1
    tompac

    tompac [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2015
    Member:
    #153362
    Messages:
    41
    Gender:
    Male
    Hi All,

    I have an issue I was hoping that I could get a little bit of input on. I have a 2004 Tacoma 4WD, 4 cylinder. Lately I have been noticing a little bit of creaking from the front end right when I first begin moving that seems to settle out once I am at speed. As well, I am noticing a little bit of play/looseness in the front end when I hit bumps in the road, and/or I am at highway speeds. I have 235K on the truck and my first thought was that the lower ball joints were going. They have never been replaced, and my mileage is getting high enough that I am starting to get a little nervous every time I get in the truck. So I have ordered some lower ball joints and am going to put them in ASAP. Seems like a fairly simple job.

    Here is the part I could use some input on. As part of confirming that replacing the LBJs would take care of things, I jacked up the front end and pushed/pulled on the wheels to check for play. I am getting no play or noises when I push/pull the wheel up and down (with hands at 12 and 6 o'clock positions), but I am getting the creaking noise and feeling play when I push/pull the wheel side to side (with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock positions). From what I have been able to find on the internet this would tend to indicate the issue causing the noise and play is not the LBJs, but instead is possibly a tie rod, bushings, or a bad bearing. I am going to swap out the LBJs anyway since the ones that are in there are way past due, but I could use some help in determining what other steps I should be taking. Here are the questions I have:

    - Is it still possible it may be the LBJs after all, even though the play is side to side?
    - If it's not the LBJs, are any of the possible things it could be a potential safety issue like it is with the LBJs?
    - Can someone point me to a diagnostic procedure to help isolate the cause further?

    I do my own maintenance as needed (have never found a mechanic I trust), so I only replace what I need to replace. I'd love to do an entire front end suspension refresh/replace and I'm sure that would take care of the problem, but I really do not have the time, facilities, or experience to do that right now. Just trying to do what I need to to keep the truck moving and not a danger to myself or others. Thanks...
     
  2. Jun 23, 2017 at 3:14 PM
    #2
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2010
    Member:
    #34006
    Messages:
    23,757
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Roaming the PNW
    Vehicle:
    The RedHead
    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 SCv6 AutoTrans With Lots of Mods ADS COs w/Compression Adjusters Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Kartek 7" Limit Straps Plastics Guy Front Bumpstops Total Chaos Sprindle Gussets Custom Alcan Springs +800 lbs +3" ADS 10" Stroke Triple Bypass w/Resi Rear Shocks Custom Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren Bumpstops 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Black 17x8 Konig Countersteer Type X 285/70r17 Falken A/T3w Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 255/85r16 Maxxis Bighorns Limited Edition (Relentless) Elite Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch Diode Dynamics SS3 Sport Selective Yellow Fog Lights in the Bumper Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro 4,000 Kelvin SAE Driving Lights with Clear Lenses on the Bumper Morimoto D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4300K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Dometic CFX 55im Fridge/Freezer Alpha II Hardshell RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack Denso 210-0461 105 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Haltech IC-7 Display with Mako Dash Insert Haltech Elite 2500 Standalone ECU Magnuson MP62 Supercharger w/URD 2.2" Pulley Denso 650cc Fuel Injectors Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump TransGo A340F Reprogramming Shift Kit Doug Thorley Headers 2.5" Magnaflow Hi-Flow CAT Magnaflow 18" Muffler w/Vibrant Resonator 13WL Brake Calipers Braided Steel Brake Lines Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio Larson 70CM/2M Antenna Midland MTX275 GMRS Radio w/Roof Mount Antenna Uniden 520xl CB radio 3' Firestik Adjustable tip antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    Pushing and pulling in the 3/9 o'clock directions involves the inner and outer tierod ends and also the steering rack and its mounting bushings.

    Get under the truck and do a closer inspection while a buddy pushes and pulls in the 3/9 directions to find what all is moving/making noises.

    235K is a ton of miles if the components involved are all originals.

    Be safe, put the weight of the truck on a jack stand before crawling under it.
     
    FirstTimeFirstGen likes this.
  3. Jun 23, 2017 at 7:06 PM
    #3
    nzbrock

    nzbrock Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2013
    Member:
    #94572
    Messages:
    3,237
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Noah
    San Marcos, TX
    Vehicle:
    99 TRD Prerunner 3RZ
    SAW 2.0 Coilovers Wheeler's 5 Leaf + 3 AAL Bilstein 5100s LCE long tube header Flowmaster Delta 50 Muffler FJ Trail Team Wheels 4Runner overhead sunglass console 4Runner leather seats All LED lights Red/Clear Tail Light Tundra Brakes HID Projector Retrofits 4Runner Auto Up/Down Windows Bullet Liner Cargo tie down system E-locker axle swap w/4.56 Gears ARE MX Cap Prinsu Toprac Custom heated turn signal/puddle light mirrors Volant Intake Tube
    You should just replace the outer tie rods when you do the ball joints since you have to pull them from the mount on the old ball joints. At that many miles the rubber on the joints are probably starting to fall apart.
     
  4. Jun 24, 2017 at 9:38 AM
    #4
    tompac

    tompac [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2015
    Member:
    #153362
    Messages:
    41
    Gender:
    Male
    Thanks for the replies. I was a little bit in "Oh Sh*t" mode when I first wrote this post because the problem wasn't what I thought it was. I should have taken more time to think things through a bit. Your replies make a lot of sense, though. I haven't done more looking at it yet, but it seems likely the problem is either the inner or outer tie rod. Looking online, that job does not seem to be too difficult, provided your parts are not seized up with rust (a big "if" for a truck with 235K in the northeast).

    Looks like the job is going to be a little bit bigger than I thought...
     
  5. Jun 24, 2017 at 10:49 AM
    #5
    FirstTimeFirstGen

    FirstTimeFirstGen Less active than most

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2017
    Member:
    #207059
    Messages:
    3,343
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    David
    Pacifica
    Vehicle:
    2004 4WD 3.4L Tacoma (Manual)
    Not enough to have a build thread.
    Definitely check to see if your rack is moving side to side. I did my lift and 33s and instantly lost my rack bushings. Felt like it was wandering at freeway speeds. And I had around 160k on it.
     
  6. Jun 25, 2017 at 10:58 AM
    #6
    tompac

    tompac [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2015
    Member:
    #153362
    Messages:
    41
    Gender:
    Male
    Thanks, I will add it to the list of things to check.

    I am finding out there are parts on my truck I did not know existed... :)
     

Products Discussed in

To Top