Cruise control issue

UPDATE: SOLVED!!

Hey everyone, going a bit crazy trying to chase down a cruise control issue.
Background:
2009 Tacoma 2.7l 5 speed RWD 255k km
No lights on dash except tire pressure.

Didn't come with factory cruise so I got a working cruise lever from a buddy and new clutch switch from Toyota. Found the pre wired wiring diagram and went through it. All was correct there. Put both in, hooked up the connector on lever and the connector on clutch switch and had no luck. No cruise light even came on when I tried.

One day I had my wheel all the way to the left at the drive through and randomly pushed the cruise. It lit up on the dash which led me to replacing the clock spring/spiral cable. I did that and the cruise light comes on but when I try to activate it, no luck. (I attempted it at faster than 100km/hr)

I did more research and double checked my clutch switch (button and cushion there and depressed at clutch pedal rest)

Brake lights functioning.

Reverse lights not functioning. Tested for power at bulb. 0 Volts. Will replace switch on transmission, haven't seen anything that links reverse lights to cruise, but including this info in case I'm wrong.

I'm at a bit of a loss now for the next steps,
If anyone has any advice, please let me know.
Thanks

 

Manual Cancel Mechanism

If any of the following signals is input during cruise control travelling, the cruise control is cancelled.
∗ The stop lamp SW is turned on.
∗ The CANCEL SW is turned on.
∗ The main SW is turned off.
∗ Gear is shifted from D position to other positions than D (A/T).
∗ Clutch pedal depresed (M/T).

Auto Cancel Function

If any of the following conditions is encountered, the cruise control is automatically cancelled.
∗ The stop lamp SW wiring is faulty or short–circuited.
∗ The vehicle speed signal is faulty.
∗ The electronically controlled throttle malfunctions.
∗ The actual vehicle speed becomes –16 km/h slower than the set speed.
∗ The actual vehicle speed becomes slower than the minimum speed limit.

 

There is only one wire that sends the signal from the switch to the ECU. The switch/stalk varies the signal via different resistances based on the position of the stalk or button pressed and the ECU responds accordingly.

Other than the possible issues posted by @Jimmyh the only thing I can think of (since you replaced the spring) is that the the stalk might be sending the signal to turn cruise on, but the resistor that triggers the signal for "set" isn't working. I'm not at home, but recall the FSM had the specs for each position - I may have also seen the specs in a post in this forum.

Another thing that I recall coming across when researching my install was that quite a few people found the clutch switch integration to be kind of finicky in some way - but mine is an auto, so didn't pay that much attention to what/why.

 

Thanks guys I'm going to keep at it.
Will keep checking back and see if any further suggestions come out.
Appreciate it

 

I recall the main commercial vendor (can't remember who it was) of such kits had a troubleshooting section, and among the troubleshooting was situations dealing with the clutch switch and what/how to test.


Edit-
Found a source - it was Rostra (it's instructions by Rostra, but the vendor is different, also there isn't an instruction sheet for post 2013, but I suppose it's likely no different).

Instructions are here:

https://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/content/250-1836-2009-2013Tacoma.pdf

Page 6 starts the install for manual trans, and briefly glancing at it, it seems to require a new switch (ie. not OEM). Don't know what the difference are - there may not be, and it might just be a gimmick to sell more stuff, but if there IS a difference, that might be your problems.

 

Was it Rostra? I found an old thread with the install instructions of their system. It has some good stuff in it for sure. Didn't have anything specific troubleshooting for clutch switch that I saw. Wonder if we can figure out the document you're thinking of. I'd like to take a look at it.

 

Most people cite the Rostra instructions (like I just did), but there was another seller that had more detailed troubleshooting information and dug further into manual trans situations. When I get home, I'll see if I saved a link or something.

 

Rostra's own website cites that their clutch disengagement switch is required (with the caveat in my post above about just trying to sell stuff:

Rostra.com under SUPPORT

 

Thank you very much. You are right, because it's a manual I did have to install a clutch switch which I purchased from Toyota. Wouldn't think it'd be an issue to have a Toyota product vs a Rostra one though?

 

That's the thing - I don't know, since I never dug into it because mine is an AT, but the implication is there that it MAY be different in some way from OEM. Maybe someone that did it on an MT model will chime in.

 

Right. I see. I'm sure someone has had this same issue and figured it out but I haven't found anything that exactly matches up with my situation. I have a Toyota dealer really close that said they could figure out the issue but not necessarily fix it for a $155 diagnostic fee.
I've never had good luck there and my friend said that's a sales tactic but I'm sort of tempted at this point, since I am very much not an auto electric guy.

 

Putting this old but very helpful thread here for future readers trying to do this install. It is a tricky thread to find I found.
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/diy-oem-cruise-control.171992/

 

Hey, for what it’s worth, make sure the clutch is ‘fully’ engaged and pedal is completely up. My pedal won’t completely 100% come all the way up only bout 98% on its own but that is enough to keep from being able to engage cruise. I remember I had some work done at the local Toyota and even they had a hard time with the cruise…when they put everything back together, cruise didn’t work.
They had to give me a rental and keep it overnight before they figured out what they were doing wrong haha.! Good luck brother

 

Okay Interesting. When I look I see the clutch pedal depressing the switch button but it's not depressed tight. I remember when my buddy and I installed it we tested it with a meter to see how far it needed to be depressed to activate and it was minimal movement. I guess as a quick test I could tape that button down, If that works then adjust the switch since it's such a pain to get at.
I'll keep at it and report back. Hopefully get some answers so someone can read this at some point and get it figured out for their own situation.

 

Great news !! I rechecked connections from stalk to clock spring and tested the clutch switch by building up the plunger (alot easier than taking the switch out to adjust just for testing purposes) took it for a spin and works perfect. It holds set speed even better than my factory 2016 Sport did.
Just fyi it will engage after 40km/hr (about 25mph, which was lower than I thought personally)
The connections all seemed good so I'm leaning towards the clutch switch.

Just a reminder for anyone reading this for install instructions, there's way better info in the thread I linked above but if you do all steps of the install, you check the junction box behind the glove compartment and find all the required wires already installed and still no light is coming on the dash, maybe try replacing your clock spring. Took me probably 15 minutes and it was my first time. It was only $25 CAD shipped to my door from Bruceauto or something like that so not too bad if you're at your wits end.
All the best to everyone and good luck with this install, it's awesome once you get it working. Worth persevering, so satisfying