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Cruise control wiring

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by CometKat, Jul 30, 2009.

  1. Jul 30, 2009 at 10:31 AM
    #1
    CometKat

    CometKat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Does anybody know how to take the steering column shroud apart without damaging it? I want to take a peek at the wiring to see if I have the cruise control power and ground in place. Or if anybody has another suggestion on checking the wiring I’d appreciate it.
     
  2. Jul 30, 2009 at 10:55 AM
    #2
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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  3. Jul 30, 2009 at 10:59 AM
    #3
    CometKat

    CometKat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have read through the TN thread. Posts #99 and #100 discuss checking the wiring under the shroud.
     
  4. Jul 30, 2009 at 1:25 PM
    #4
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    Online taco manual for removing shroud too?
     
  5. Aug 1, 2009 at 3:57 PM
    #5
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

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    Did the cruise control install today. Don't have putty monkey hands so just took the lower dash & fuse box out of the way. This also lets you see how much thread is sticking down under the bracket so you can mimic that with the clutch switch. The plug was right there visible, just had to pull slack enough,which was taped to harness, to plug it into switch. Everything was piece of cake, plugged right in & worked from the getgo just like it should-clutch depress turns it off, brake depress turns it off, pwr button lights up dash when pushed, accelerates & coasts like it should. Best hour I've spent on mods in awhile. The people only sent one screw for the stalk but the magic bucket of metric bolts in the garage had one just like I needed so no biggy.
     
  6. Aug 1, 2009 at 4:11 PM
    #6
    jeremiekc

    jeremiekc Well-Known Member

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    There are two screws behind the steering wheel that you need to unscrew as well.

    All you do is push it in at the edge and it will pop out. If that doesn't work then take a butter knife and wrap it with either masking tape or electrical tape and use it to pry with.

    If this doesn't work then go to the Intermittent wiper MOD thread or to the cruise control thread. It is really easy to do. Just be forceful but gentle as well.
     
  7. Aug 1, 2009 at 4:31 PM
    #7
    CometKat

    CometKat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Actually I think I’m good to go on all wiring. All the wires are present at the ECU. The plug is present and taped above my clutch pedal. And I took a peek through the slot in the shroud with the tilt lever down and there were my three wires that go to the connector behind the air bag; the CC brown with white stripe coming from E7-31, my white with black stripe CC ground, and the green ground for the air bag.
     
  8. Aug 1, 2009 at 5:16 PM
    #8
    salsataco

    salsataco Well-Known Member

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    I have all the parts except the clutch switch for sale. Pm me if you are interested and we can work something out.
     
  9. Aug 1, 2009 at 7:54 PM
    #9
    jeremiekc

    jeremiekc Well-Known Member

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    Secondary Air Filter removed, Painted Brake Calipers, AFN Drop in air cleaner, OEM Chrome Bumper, OEM Chrome grilll, OEM Cruise Control, OEM Interval Wipers, Hard Wired Garmin Nuvi 670, X-Runner Rims, Devil Horns, 6000w HID's, Bling Light Fogs with Blue Halo, OEM Bilstein Rear Shocks, 12V Plug in Truck Bed pocket. Debagged, 13" Antennax, Color Matched Satoshi Grill, URD Short Shifter, WeatherTech Floor Mats, PainLess Wiring Switched Fuse Box, Black Sand Pearl X-Runner Badges
    Were you having a problem with it or were you just wondering if it would work after you got it all installed? I was wondering the whole time when I did mine but figured I would just do it and if it didn't work I would take it to the dealer and tell them it doesnt work, let them fix it.
     
  10. Aug 3, 2009 at 8:13 AM
    #10
    CometKat

    CometKat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I just didn’t want to waste money on parts that won’t work. Anyway, I’ve ordered all my parts, including a short 14mm wrench to aid with the install. I should be cruising in a couple of weeks.
     
  11. Aug 3, 2009 at 10:25 AM
    #11
    jeremiekc

    jeremiekc Well-Known Member

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    Secondary Air Filter removed, Painted Brake Calipers, AFN Drop in air cleaner, OEM Chrome Bumper, OEM Chrome grilll, OEM Cruise Control, OEM Interval Wipers, Hard Wired Garmin Nuvi 670, X-Runner Rims, Devil Horns, 6000w HID's, Bling Light Fogs with Blue Halo, OEM Bilstein Rear Shocks, 12V Plug in Truck Bed pocket. Debagged, 13" Antennax, Color Matched Satoshi Grill, URD Short Shifter, WeatherTech Floor Mats, PainLess Wiring Switched Fuse Box, Black Sand Pearl X-Runner Badges
    That makes sense. The best 14mm wrench to get is one of the little stubby ones that are fairly small. It is also easier if you take the bottom plastic piece of the dash off. I of course did not do this plus I didn't have a stubby wrench. So needles to say after about 45 min and several band aids I finally got it installed.
     
  12. Aug 5, 2009 at 5:56 PM
    #12
    otter

    otter Well-Known Member

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    Just a note for any 09 Taco owners who want to do this - read the ENTIRE thread at TN before you order anything. I didn't, now I'm $120 down, cut up hands, and no CC :mad: Chances are I'll be selling my parts, since I'm not sure I'm up to the task of running a whole bunch of wiring back to the ECU.
     
  13. Aug 5, 2009 at 6:09 PM
    #13
    Tacoyota

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    Just did mine today, what might help:
    1. measure the bolt's protrusion so you can duplicate for the switch at clutch.
    2. the torx screws are at about 5&7 o'clock , you wont see the covers from the seat, same hole for the stock on right side.
    3. If you have the clutch go slow be patient LOL, its not bad, just tedious.
    4. you can drop the switch or wrench and lose it behind a plastic trim molding.
    5. best position ( for me at least) for the clutch switch is on knees, facing passenger side, do it left handed
     
  14. Aug 5, 2009 at 6:19 PM
    #14
    CometKat

    CometKat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ^^
    Thanks for the tips. Did you take the lower part of the dash off or not?

    Also when are we going to see a picture of your truck?
     
  15. Aug 5, 2009 at 6:26 PM
    #15
    Tacoyota

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    No, i left it, for the more patient , it might be a good idea. I'm 5'11" thought my hands were normal, but my hands felt a little crowded,cost me 10 minutes, patiently is all
     
  16. Aug 5, 2009 at 8:21 PM
    #16
    jeremiekc

    jeremiekc Well-Known Member

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    I did it with out removing anything and had a real pain of a time. I have large hands and I didnt have a stubby 14mm wrench. I ended up popping the power mirror control blank out and looking through it was able to get up there and take it out. It is a whole lot easier with a short wrench.
     
  17. Aug 6, 2009 at 8:38 AM
    #17
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

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    Taking the lower dash off is 2 bolts, 1 nut on dead pedal rest, door sill & side panel pops off. Trim piece around ebrake & hood release pops out of dash piece. Took about 2 minutes. Then 2 bolts & 2 nuts to move the fuse block out of the way. You can see & have access to switch bracket with normal wrench. Not worth all the contortion action to me to not take it apart.............
     
  18. Aug 6, 2009 at 9:08 AM
    #18
    excalis

    excalis Well-Known Member

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    I looked at my ECU and it seemed that all the wires were where that needed to be. I read the Toyota Nation thread on this and followed the chart/info they had but just not to sure.

    Do any of you have close up photos actually showing the wires that need to be there?

    Thanks!

    2009 Tacoma DCaB Pre-Runner
     
  19. Aug 6, 2009 at 4:44 PM
    #19
    Tacoyota

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    Yea, for 2 minutes work , I would have removed it, i just didn't read up that part. But dang that cruise is nice, I didnt realize i became addicted for it.
     
  20. Aug 9, 2009 at 9:08 AM
    #20
    CometKat

    CometKat [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I got my cruise installed yesterday and it works perfectly. Thanks for all the advice and tips I got from TW and TN. I will add a few tips of my own;

    First, I have a short rolling shop stool that I can raise and lower about a foot. I raised it to the same height as the floor of the truck and used it as an extension for my body as I lay under the dash to do my work. So with my right hip on the stool and my right shoulder on the truck floor with my body at about a 45 degree angle, I could comfortably have my short 14mm wrench in my right hand and a small flashlight in my left. This made doing the clutch switch fairly easy.

    Second, I used zip ties to hold the clutch down. The ties wrap easily around a bracket by the clutch reservoir (or whatever that is at the base of the pedal).

    Third, I filed straight the end of a regular flatware knife and the put a piece of electrical tape over it to use as a tool to remove the coverers on the steering wheel. Basically I made a very thin screwdriver whereas a regular screwdriver is a little to thick to fit into the slot.

    Finally, I borrowed an extra set of hands to hold the air bag so I didn’t have to remove the connectors. All in all it was a pretty easy job.
     
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