csuviper's Junktrk (84 Yota Pickup) Build

SOLD!!



1984 Toyota Pickup
Purchased February 2011.










I purchased the truck with the following items (kinda????)
• 6” Skyjacker lift
• 35x12.5 BFG MT’s
• Warn Winch
• 5:49 Gears (I didn’t think about it but after purchasing I couldn’t find this as a viable gear ratio)
• Detroit Locker in the rear
• MSD ignition
• Smittybuilt rollbar and front bumper
• CB radio
• Tool Box

When I test drove the truck, it was running rough and had a wobble when driving. Rough shape to the body and rust here and there. The interior didn't look the best but could be cleaned up. Got a good deal on it (so I thought at the time) so I purchased and took it home.

This adventure started shortly after getting it in the garage with cleaning the carb to attempt to get the emissions done before I take it down for rebuild. I realized that this wasn’t going to work since oil was leaking everywhere and the engine wasn't running well. Attempts at adjusting the timing really didn’t work and it was suspected that the timing chain skipped a tooth. I soon took the truck down and put it up on jack stands. Instead of choosing a task to tackle and complete, I decided to attack the whole truck at once. It started by removing the wheels, bed box, roll bar, tailgate, bed sides, seats, door liners and interior electronic components.







Carb Cleaning (Not Rebuild)
The carb came off easy. It was gummed up but didn’t look too bad. A few cans of carb cleaner later the Carb was clean and back together. I purchased a full rebuild kit but plan to do that only if I see problems now or a task for the winter months.



Axle Rebuild
Because the knuckles were leaking oil, I was inclined to do a full rebuild. The full knuckle rebuild kit was purchased from All-Pro Offroad. The kit includes all necessary gaskets and seals as well as the steering bearings. The wheel bearings are sold separately. After tearing about the hubs it was discovered that there was no grease in the hubs at all. It was actually filled with axle fluid. The seals must have busted a while back and the truck was ran long enough for the diff fluid to mix completely with the grease. Grease was mixed into the axle oil and was spread throughout the axle and differential. Rebuild went well except pulling apart the birfield and inner axle shaft to clean it up and put it back together. The knuckle is almost done but decided to add some paint to the hub.






Engine Rebuild
The engine could not be timed properly and was leaking like crazy from the oil pan, front main and up near the alternator. The previous owner must have opened the engine up to fix something and put it back together using a shitload of gasket goo. It was oozing from every crevice. Within a day the engine was down to the block. The lower timing chain sprocket was cracked which could have been the reason for the engine running rough by being out of time. I cleaned up the engine as best I could and replaced the following:
- All new gaskets
- New water pump
- New oil pump
- New sensors
- New pcv valve
- New Timing chain and sprockets










Task list:
Put axle back together - Complete
Dill out the diff drain plug and install new - Complete
Fill axle with axle fluid - Complete
Finish putting the engine back together (timing cover, water pump, oil pump, belts, hoses, radiator, etc) - Complete
Clean the interior - Complete
Put the interior back together
Put the wheels back on - Complete
Bleed the brakes - Complete
Add engine oil and coolant - Complete
Test run - Complete
Sand the bed of the truck and clean
Weld the holes up in the bed
Paint Bed liner in the bed
Install new fuel filter
Drain and Pull Apart the rear axle, replace seals, inspect and put back together
Inspect tire rubbing and size of spacers I can use
Cut back the body mount and bend the pinch welds
Test flex and if not satisfied pull the add a leafs and re-test
Replace power steering fluid
Clean air filter
Replace and seal the air box think about snorkel options
Build new door interiors
Sand and paint the roll bar and install
Paint everything that needs it




BTW, my truck kinda resembles the truck from Back to the Future!!




Perfect match for my 07'






More info and wheeling pics to come...

 

Thanks man

 

Painted up the 4x4 hub knobs last weekend.

 

Last weekend I also was able to install the new water pump and new oil pump as well as clean, paint and install the oil pan. Looks way better.

 

I took the day off yesterday and worked on the truck a little. Had to replace the exhaust manifold because it was cracked.


I was able to get a used exhaust manifold at the yota yard for cheep. Accidentally got the wrong one the first time so back to the yota yard. While I was there I picked up a filter housing, door lock accessory piece, and some door handle parts.
Then I cleaned, painted and installed the exhaust manifold.

 

ME TOO!!!!!

 

I was asked a question about oil pan removal and install so I thought I would post the procedure and hints.

The removal and install is really easy. There are 15 bolts and 3 nuts to remove and it comes right off. Have to kinda finagle it around the oil strainer and pick-up tube to take it off. Don't worry though, you wont hurt it. The gasket is typically a cork so if some gasket sealer was used then you may have to pry the pan to get it off and spend some time scrapping the remaining gasket off.
Before you go to put it back on make sure that all of the bolt holes are level. If the bolts were cranked too hard then then there may be divots around the hole. Just use a hammer and something on the back side to beat them flush. New gasket with some gasket sealer and your good to go.
Remember not to torque the bolts down to hard. This will create the divots and potentially cause a leak. Only torque them down to 9 ft-lbs. This will be enough to hold the pan on. There is no high pressure in this area so don't over tighten.

Here is a pic as the pan was being removed:


Oil strainer:


Look how dirty the pan was and how much of a mess the gasket was. Was a real pain to get off. I finally resorted to a grinder with a wirewheel to remove the gasket and also to remove the paint on the outside.

 

What should I do to clean/restore the radiator?
Take it some where to have it soldered and dipped, get a new one (same or larger?), get a used one (same or larger?) or just clean the one I have the best I can???

 

Just seems like a risk, finding one that is better than the one I have that is.
I don't think mine is leaking but I know that the previous owner used the coolant fix a leak crap because it was gummed up all through the engine ports.
Do you or anyone know if that stuff will clean up using hot water, or is there a good cleaner to use?
Anyone know the costs of each of these options?

 

Called a couple shops and it looks like its about $65 for clean, repair and paint. Will probably go that route. They told me they will pressure/flow check it first for free to make sure that it is not all clogged up.
The previous owner of the truck used that radiator fix-a-leak crap that i saw all gummed up throughout the engine. If its clogged I will have no choice but to go used or new.

 

HELP!!!
I am going to need some help with the vacuum lines on my truck soon. The diagrams that I have are very poor and I am not sure which setup I have. I believe there are three different setups; standard, high altitude, and California emissions. Not sure which I have.
If there is anyone in Colorado that can come by in the next couple weekend to help out, I would greatly appreciate it.
A helpful diagram or pictures would be great too.

 

Why isn't the last picture posted changing the icon for the thread? It works in other threads.

 

Will also need some help with Electrical?
Anyone out there know their 22R's?