Custom driveshaft vs traction bars?

Good information, thank you.
Yeah the axle wrap and wheel hop is my main concern.
Limited slip would be nice, don't know if that would mean I would have to remove the e-locker. Looks like I have more research to do.
Thanks for the good info everyone.

 

If you plan to get new leaves do that first as it may improve axle wrap to the point where you don’t need a traction bar. Especially if you go spring under and mount both shocks in front of the axle.

@HolyHandGrenade & @White lightning boosted y’all welded the thing to the pumpkin and not the tube??

FWIW if you plan to weld it don’t waste money on bud build. Could just get the parts on ruff stuff. Com or similar

 

i got rid of my e-locker. for what i use the truck for i prefer the trutrac. do consider the tracbar(s) @Torspd suggested. if he likes them better theres a good reason. congrats on the s/c!

 

If you’re already long travel just link it lol

 

For what you are doing, a 2 piece shaft sucks. Too many angles, a floppy carrier bearing, everything is shifting under load. Lifting it just makes it worse.

Another problem is that a Tacoma frame in the 2nd and 3rd gen is just crap. They have way too much deflection and it is only boxed under the cab. Basically a wobbly pile on the business end where you are feeding the abuse. You could do all of this and still have a problem. You are also dealing with leaf springs. You could traction bar the shit out of it but sacrificing something like wheel travel, comfort, ground clearance, etc. depending on what you go with. I would avoid what you typically see on muscle cars with rear leafs or what those dopy diesel truck tards use which is a fully welded arm on the axle that goes either to a bumpstop on the frame or a bar that is attached to the frame with a joint that goes down to the axle with one point of attachement.

The first one only works when you hammer the throttle and really a poor way of accomplishing controlled launches and the other just simply is stupid, probably caused by having too large of a beard or exhaust pipes. You would want to go with a radius arm on the axle with two points of attachment that does up to the frame with a shackle (like a leaf spring) to some type of poly bushing or spherical bearing. This way you keep your wheel travel and flex for offroad but gain some control or axle wrap.

 

my wrap got worse with deavers. i bought mine because fab time made the money a wash.

 

Not surprised. Deavers are soft unless they’re a custom order
So why did you have someone weld it to the pumpkin instead of the tube? Pics of that part??

 

gimme a minute for a pic. it needs to be as close to the center as possible. per instructions and design.

 

I don't see how this works great for a truck. I'm no expert but preloading a leaf spring is really a poor way or controlling wrap. I'm sure it works but its like having death wobble and adding more stabilizers. Sure it may work and add mass to the steering but probably still an underlying problem that needs to be resolved.

Look at the geometry. When you accelerate that big swinging shackle on the left pushes against the leaf spring to physically stop the axle from rotating up. So when you jab the breaks it does nothing to help. Its like a fancy way of putting those crap ladder bars on.


This is from Off Road Design but its a common design that works very well for trucks especially off road.

The bar has plenty of poly bushings so you eliminate vibes but is rigid to the axle so as soon as it wants to rotate up or down it deflects again the frame by using the swinging shackle. This way when the axles moves around off road the shackle and spherical bearings allow it to rotate around a bunch but still keep the pinion from rotating up or down.

This one is made from Tuff Country. I'm sure it control axle wrap but only on the principle of binding the shit out of the leaf spring. So when the axle goes to twist it pulls on the bar which is connected to the frame. Great...but it only has one point of attachment on the axle so the bottom of the axle still wants to move around. It also will push or pull the axle during the droop and stuff of the axle within the wheel well. That doesn't work because the front half of the spring is also connected to the frame. How are they supposed to travel in the same arch? Its like trying to take a leaf spring and add controls like a link suspension without going to a full link suspension. Can't really do it with this arrangement.

 

What center are you talking about? I would design it exactly like @Slum Lord explained above. Sorry, not familiar with bud build’s weld on variant. Only seen the bolt on which is hilariously stupid. They should be slapped for that!

 

That second pic is the only thing I’d ever put on my truck but it requires relocation of the stock muffler which I like cause it’s nice and quiet. I would also brace the cross member where it attaches. If you don’t I dare you to stick a Gopro under there. You’d be sick watching how much it will twist

 

Keep thinking about it. You'll get there on the CalTracs. It prevents the axle from twisting. While with the heim joint ends allowing it to articulate up and down in its natural motion.

The straight bars do not. They are fixed on both ends. From a center line, if the axle goes in the down direction, it will pull it in a circular motion towards the front mount. Closer to the front mount. Same in the up. Always fighting itself. Those are no good because the suspension is always in a bind when it travels.

 

i do have a camera. you are correct, the crossbar will flex. i have a reinforcement idea. this is way better than things were. again, im no pro here by any means. just here to be helpful. heres some pics.

 

That’s not welded to the pumpkin, it’s on the axle housing like I thought.

 

ahh yes. i thank my hombre @JimSnell for that bomber weld.

 

Why not also weld the front shackle hanger? And then triangulate the cross member to the main frame rail. That ought to prevent flex

 

yes, my muffler doesnt look stylish but it still fits. quiet is relative to me. i have a smooth yet (healthy exhaust note). but.... i like a loud exhaust and obnoxious s/c whine. sounds like a gsxr when i get on it.

 

great call. i liked the idea of a brace from the front. another mod when i can get the help for it.

 

I’d put the brace on the back. Start as close as possible to the shackle

 

close to the shackle yes. cant recall what side had more room for mounting logistics.