Custom Intake Manifold Spacer

because he licked it before he put it on? does it really matter buy one of each and find out for yourself dam he has a money back garuntee man , gee how long this crap gonna go?

 

my wifes a teacher I don't need your correcytions too lol.thanks though

 

I know I posted a few posts back that I never wanted one ? I'm sure I did so why would I buy one just cause u said too? not understanding? mods please remove this fellow member?

 

THIS IS WHY:

source: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2008/02/intake-manifolds-from-mild-to-wild/

Runner Length

Runner length also affects the rpm range where an engine makes the most power. Longer runner lengths have a “ram” effect that helps keep the air moving forward as the intake valves open and shut. When an intake valve opens, there is a short lag before the cylinder starts to pull air through the runner into the combustion chamber. A longer runner helps maintain the inertia of the air column so it will fill the cylinder faster.


When the intake valve slams shuts, the momentum of the incoming air hits a roadblock, and a pressure wave rushes backwards through the intake port and runner. A longer intake runner tends to keep the air moving in the right direction in spite of the reversionary pressure pulse that is trying to push it backwards.


Shorter runners, on the other hand, usually flow better at higher engine rpm. Reducing the length of the runners may allow the engine to make more power at the top end, but the trade-off may be a loss of power and torque at lower speeds. When choosing an intake manifold, therefore, the runner length should match the engine rpm range where the engine is built to make the most power. If you are building a low rpm torque motor, you want an intake manifold with longer high velocity runners. On the other hand, if you are building a high revving motor, you will probably want a manifold with shorter runners or runners with a larger cross-sectional area to flow more air.

Runner Curves and Manifold Heat

Another important factor that influences airflow and how much torque and power an engine can make is the angle and curvature of the intake runners. In an engine with a carburetor, the intake manifold should not have any sharp turns because it can cause the heavier droplets of fuel to separate from the air/fuel mixture. This is not as critical in fuel injected engines because only air flows through the manifold. The fuel is sprayed directly into the intake ports by the injectors that are mounted in the intake manifold just above the ports.


On carbureted engines, the intake manifold is “wet” and contains fuel droplets. When a cold engine is first started, additional heat is needed to help vaporize the fuel. An exhaust crossover passage is often incorporated into the stock manifold to redirect exhaust under the plenum so the manifold will warm up quickly. On a performance engine, you don’t want heat in the intake manifold because heat decreases air density and power. So many aftermarket performance manifolds eliminate the heat crossover passage. Some manifolds raise the intake plenum and runners away from the engine so air can flow under the manifold to help keep it cool.


A fuel injected engine also does not require any heat in the intake manifold to aid fuel vaporization because the manifold is “dry” (no fuel vapor). This means the incoming air can be cooler and denser to produce more power (which is another advantage of fuel injection in addition to better cold starting). This also means the intake manifold can be made of lightweight plastic since the manifold does not have to withstand heat like a metal intake manifold on a carbureted engine.


Plastic intake manifolds are common on many late model engines, and one of the advantages of using plastic (besides saving weight) is that it can be cast to optimize airflow. Terry Wilson of Wilson Manifolds unveiled a new plastic intake manifold for the smallblock Chevy at the recent Performance Racing Industry trade show. He said the manifold weighs only 7 lbs, runs much cooler than an aluminum manifold, and is cast to flow as well as CNC ported aluminum manifold. The manifold will be in production this spring, and will retail for around $800, which Wilson says is about half the cost of what a CNC ported race-ready aluminum intake manifold would cost.


Runner Design

The angle at which the runners in the intake manifold line up with the ports in the cylinder head should be as straight and smooth as possible to optimize airflow. That’s why “high-rise” intake manifolds produce more power than “low-rise” manifolds. The runners in a high-rise manifold have a straighter shot at the ports in the cylinder head. The incoming air does not have to change direction as much, so it flows more easily into the intake port and combustion chamber. And if the ports in the intake manifold are carefully matched to those in the cylinder heads, there will be no sharp edges or misalignment to disrupt airflow.


I really hope that helps clear things up for you...

 

the dick rule,its unspoken but your sure not!

 

lol, ?

 

Ill say that i have the 1/2in spacer and it has done a good job at giving a nice boost to the low n mid range as indicated by XTP's dyno's Im sure the full inch spacer will shift the curves even more.

 

Interesting product, I'm definitely in search of naturally aspirated performance gains. However $225 is a painful price to pay for a plastic spacer, wouldn't you say? Is that what all these things run?

 

You're also paying for the engineering and the RnD

 

Listen.... If I didn't just wreck my truck I'd buy one. They are on XRU and have been proven to do some help. Now it's not a magical part that will make it a nascar, but it has small gains. There are dynos on XRU of N/A engines.....

 

saur.

 

No, I wouldn't say that at all.

This spacer improves throttle response and increases low-mid range performance. Most other N/A mods sacrifice this for upper range gains. What you want in a daily-driven, low-rpm truck engine is more usable low-mid range performance.

Also in a price to performance gain ratio, you're getting way more bang for your buck. This $225 piece will give you a bigger acceleration boost than any $400 intake or $600 header etc...

This is all actually common knowledge to engine builders. Have a look at the Chevrolet LS-engine parts industry. People will spend insane amounts of money on intake manifold/plenum upgrades because they yield huge gains.

 

Does the engine cover still fit just like it does from the factory? Or does the spacer affect it's mounting locations

 

It may fit. I tossed mine a long time ago so I'm unable to check.

Worst case, if you absolutely had to keep your engine cover, you would need 2 bolt/stud extenders. Takes less than $5 and 2 min to install.

 

I do agree. The low-range performance is definitely a benefit for the daily driver user. I'd definitely be interested to see how this product would perform in combination with an intake and headers, which is what my eventual plan is for my 1GR. I just finished a 5100 with coil/leaf install on all 4 corners, so for a college kid like me, I'm just trying to watch the dollar signs, haha.

Yes, I'm in that knowledge when it comes to engine geometry. I've gone to school and done work on a Toyota 3vz-fe rebuild. And indeed, I have a friend who had some top-end work done to his LS7 Corvette, ported the heads and added a large sum of cam and he makes 700 HP now.

 

I don't have a V6, but in general... if it takes me more time and money to make it than buy it... then it's worth for me if the product they make works as advertise. A block of plastic will be at least $40 or so... put it on a lathe and and run it for an hour. Then there's a little charge for profit... I think it's a reasonable price for low production run...this isn't mass produce.

Bobber Bill, Since the Tooter isn't being made anymore... do you plan to make them for 2TR motors?

 

That's just the stock upper intake manifold with the runners cutoff. He didn't design/make anything. Just cut off and sand.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-TOYOTA-TACOMA-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-4-0L-6-CYL-1GRFE-ENGINE-UPPER-12-13-14-15-/171889019950?fits=Make:Toyota|Model:Tacoma&hash=item2805624c2e&vxp=mtr

 

It's funny that the science gets argued when its been tested and tested and tested. Some people never get it.

The big consideration here is $$$/HP. For folks who cannot source a donor manifold or don't have any friends with machining experience & equipment there certainly isn't anything wrong with a purchase like this.

Myself, I'm making mine