Custom overhead console switch plates

I could do a writeup when I have more time, but here's the basic info:

One 15 foot Cat7 cable is all you need for up to 8 switches. Two 15 foot Cat7 cables gives you the option of expanding up to 16 switches. You can get a constant +12v, an ignition switched +12v, and a ground from the stock overhead console wiring harness so you don't need to use the Cat7 for those.

I cut a small 1-foot piece of Cat7 (with RJ45 terminated end) and spliced my switch output wires into it. Then I ran the other 14 foot piece through the headliner and down the A-pillar, behind the glove box and out into the engine bay through an existing stock hole in the firewall there. The other RJ45 connector was left on the end hanging out of my overhead console area, with the cut end in my engine bay which I spliced to my relays. For my relays I use Deutsch connectors (waterproof plugs) and the Cat7 wire is too small for them, so I had to splice each Cat7 wire first to 18 AWG GXL wire and then to a Deutsch connector. I sealed it all with marine heatshrink.

Now you have a male RJ45 (ethernet) plug hanging off your overhead console and another male RJ45 plug hanging off the Cat7 out of your headliner. Just use a Female to Female RJ45 adapter to connect them. You could skip this and just splice the Cat7 straight to your switches without any RJ45 connectors, but this allows you to disconnect the overhead console and pull it off if you ever want to. I like things to be modular.

Here's a few pics. Sorry for the poor quality, some were taken at night with amber lights on in the background.

 

Is that a furled side curtain airbag that you ziptied around?

 

I would suggest taking those zip ties off your side curtain airbags may cause issues if you ever need them to deploy.

 

you're right thanks.

 

Wanting one to mount President Bill or similar small cb. Maybe a blank that could he custom cut.

 

I did the same thing for about a month until it dawned on me what I did.

 

I took all my airbag stuff down to dynomat my cab so when I saw that I was wondering if you knew.

 

Looking good! Wish mine was that far along.

 

So I’m trying to figure out the best attachment method - don’t want to remove material that maybe needed.

Here’s the inside of the sunglasses holder:
Do you think I need to pry the “slow drop” gear out?

Other pictures

 

I removed the gear and cut out this plastic piece as well. I started with a small drill bit to try to guess the exact hole, which failed. So I kept sizing up the drill bit and then secured with a washer on both sides to make sure doesn't move in the future, if you do this just a heads up what happened to me. On the gear side the drill bit kept wanting to wander and separate where the gear was. So I just used a clamp to keep the 2 pieces of plastic as tight as I could which helped the bit

 

Waiting on 3 of my other switches to show up, I'll have 1 blank to figure out in the future
Here is my view with it up, (I'm 5'8) without moving the mirror, doesn't block anything

 

So a few things if you do this with the tall Toyota style switches from CH4x4.com...they are long and extend past the back
So when you cut out, you have to cut past the press tabs so the edge switches will fully seat

But the end result I’m pleased with

Here’s how I attached the console....I set it, drilled from the inside out through the hole and screwed from the inside out.

 

I will add that the switches are MUCH easier to activate in the upper console


Than I previously had them in front of the cup holders using the Izzy switch plate.

 

I have both, way to many items to turn on

 

Started to install mine. Used JB Weld Plastic Weld to hold the panel in place I plan on drilling two smaller holes in the side mount tabs and use 1/16" rivets as well. Made a "T" out of plastic to assist in holding the panel in place where I wanted it.

 

Do you find the switch lights to be a distraction when driving at night?

 

Not terribly but I wished their brightness matched the other dimmable dash lights.
Contemplating researching about resistors and seeing if adding one would help match better. But honestly it’s not thus far bothering me too much.

 

Good to know. Thanks for the quick response!

I was thinking about tapping the switch light wires into the dash lights after the dimmer for them. I always keep my dash lights fairly well dimmed anyway. Might as well do those switches the same way if I can.

I have so much wiring to catch up with on my already purchased but as yet not installed accessories (12 circuit panel, 2LO kit, winch power to the rear hitch, seat heaters, bed lights, under hood light....), I think I'm going to have to buy a car off Craigslist to use as my daily driver while I do the wiring! lol

 

I was out of spots on the left side after adding a USB power for my phone, so I extended the lines for my fog lights which uses the power for all my switches. So my dimmer affects the 6 switches on top now. I have the iggy switch on the lower panel and those I cant dim which sucks. So I put tint on the inside of the switch which helped