CV-axle confusion - can you set me straight?

Hey TW peops! So I'm getting ready to install the ECGS bushing to replace my wonky factory needle bearing set-up on my 2006 4x4 2.7L 5sp. I think I may also have a bent or otherwise damaged cv-axle on my driver's side from nailing a curb a while back, but don't see anything obvious (broken boots, oil leaks, obvious bends, etc.). Since aftermarket cv's appear to pretty affordable, I'm going to swap both driver's and passenger's side cv's while I'm doing the bearing.

So here are my questions:

1) Which manufacturer of aftermarket cv's is okay? Which are hunks of doo-doo? Online reviews are virtually no help in my experience...

2) What is the proper length of the cv axles? I'm seeing a ton of different lengths - some as long as 33" and some short as heck. I've read some horror stories about people installing aftermarket cv's that end up being shorter than the stock ones. I would like to avoid tearing apart my truck to find out I have replacement cv's that are too short.

3) I think I know the answer to this, but are the driver's side and passenger's side interchangeable. That is, are they the exact same part number?

4) I ordered axle seals for both sides from ECGS (OE ones I think), but don't currently have leaks. Is there anything obscure about replacing these? I see some discussion about how to seat them properly. One side is "flush" and one side is "pushed all the way in 'til it stops" so I'm a little dubious about this. I'll definitely make note (take pics) of the factory seal location before I pull them out, but want to know if there's anything strange about this procedure that I should be on guard for.

Thanks y'all. Seems like I have more questions but can remember them right now.

 

I'm not of any help, but I do wish to know the answer to this as well. From the research I did the only conclusion I could come to was that ALL aftermarket CVs are crap and I should try to grab some used genuine Toyota take-offs.

 

Well, I bit the bullet and ordered some A1Cardone CVs, new. Part nos:

$85 66-5235HD New CV Constant Velocity Severe-Duty Drive Axle Shaft

66-5235HD. I'll let you know how they fit after install. Probably will be some time b/w Christmas and New Year's before I get it done.

 

Cvjaxles.com built great ones for me!

 

Don't get rid of the oem cv axles. Send the OEM pieces to CVJ and have them rebuild them for you.

 

I was just going to say the same thing. A good secondary option besides a rebuild is have CVJ build one like @fireturk41 said.

Coot

 

Well I ordered the "HD" ones that seem to have an upgraded boot versus the regular version. Hopefully mine don't dry rot. Thanks for the heads-up on the retainer clip. I bet that square clip take a 15lb sledge hammer to persuade it to seat.

 

Some aftermarket CV joints are known to have less articulation range than OEM. Important thing to consider for lifted trucks.

 

My only concern about having them rebuilt is that I have a suspicion that the driver's side CV is bent in some very minor way. The passenger side is fine...which makes me wonder why I decided to replace it too! LOL How much does CVJ charge for a rebuild? I don't do a ton of off-roading, so I imagine the new CVs are going to last for a long time. I have 190k on the clock, so the OEMs lasted just fine based on the limited abuse I give them. Having a spare set seems more like a plan for an avid off-roader... so maybe I could sell these to someone who wants to rebuild them? Just an idea.

 

I am concerned, albeit only a tiny bit. I have a very modest lift - more like a leveling kit on front and a wee lift (AAL) on the back. As far as I can tell, I don't have any of those bugga-boos people talk about related to lifts (shutters/shimmies/vibes). I DO have a vibration, BUT it was there prior to the lift and new wheels. I'm hoping the vibe I have is settled by the new CVs and the ECGS bushing. I have to say, tho, if I pull of the OEM CVs and the new ones are shorter, I'm gunna be uber pissed.

 

I've seen two different lengths on Rock Auto. They differ by a good 1/4" but are measured from tip to tip, which is not a good interface dimension. (The longer one could simply have more threads for the axle nut.)
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3857619&cc=1445516&jsn=402
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2976975&cc=1445516&jsn=405
Unfortunately the Cardone axle listings don't show the length.

You have the necessary tools handy? Need a large socket for the axle nut (which may differ in socket size between OEM and aftermarket...) and either a 1/2" drive impact wrench or long breaker bar.

 

Ya, I have all the tools needed to get everything removed and installed. I've replaced both wheel bearings and hubs (trying to track down my freaking vibe), so have the right socket to get that OE axle nut off. I might break down and get a serious torque wrench, tho. Mine only goes up to about 140ft.lbs. and if I remember right the axle nut is tightened in the 170ft.lb. range. The only tool I might do without is the needle bearing puller from ECGS. I've heard mixed reviews on how easy the OE needle bearing comes out of the diff. Some say they got it out easily with a standard slide hammer and a bearing puller jaw attachment. The ECGS tool looks pretty simple to make. I could measure the OD of the new bushing and make a similar tool before I start the job, but knowing myself better than that, I'll spend 3 hours cussing at the slide hammer before I break down and fashion a removal tool. Ha! I am trying to track down an ECGS removal tool to use on loan.

 

Source on this? First hand experience? I see it mentioned a lot but the information is always pretty vague as far as which brands suck and how the articulation range was verified.

 

My napa cvs are already clicking in some conditions and the boots squeak at very low speeds (when everyone can here it ha).
CVJ can rebuild them, I was quoted around $300 to rebuild and ship my exact ones back to me. Call them and talk to them, they were helpful on the phone. They can even install a different boot to help cope with steeper angles.

I have not found another place to do this local.

 

Use a hose clamp to secure the slide hammer to the cv when pulling it out. And when reinstalling, use a crowbar on the flat housing of the cv to bang in back in. Do not hit the shafts with a hammer