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CV Axle Replacement ... express method!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by roboots21, Mar 3, 2013.

  1. Jan 19, 2014 at 5:22 AM
    #41
    putnamqdm

    putnamqdm Member

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    Thanks for all the input. I'm still not seeing how there is enough play to remove the axle out of either housing without removing all components. You tube video on the easy method steps would be very helpful for future reference.
    From what I gather let me know if I'm wrong.. after removing axle nut install to outer cover threads using a BFH trap it out of knuckle then pry it out of diff.. If so im not seeing enough play at diff to move it in that direction.
    Or Pry it out of diff first pushing against the loosened knuckle then tapping it out of knuckle. Which in my case may not be necessary cause all I have to do is expose inner seal at diff to replace it. Can anyone explain these steps to easy method a little more precisely?
     
  2. Jan 19, 2014 at 5:34 AM
    #42
    pa blaster

    pa blaster Well-Known Member

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  3. Jan 19, 2014 at 5:47 AM
    #43
    qnyla

    qnyla Well-Known Member

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    I just replaced both CV axles in my truck three weeks ago.

    To use this method:

    1. You MUST unbolt the swaybar where the end link bolts to the spindle.

    2. You MUST unbolt the tie rod where the end link bolts to the spindle.

    3. Remove the two bolts attaching the spindle to the lower ball joint on the LCA.

    4. Remove the hub grease cover, remove the cotter pin and lock nut on the axle nut.

    5. Remove the axle nut.

    6. Pull outward on the hub/spindle assembly until the CV axle clear the hub and drops.

    7. pull the CV axle from the differential. I used the steel cable and swing hammer method and it took one swing per side.

    The 2nd gen Tacoma is just like the FJ video I posted, but that FJ was not running a swaybar so that step is skipped.

    JB7B5331-TO.jpg
     
    SAR Taco likes this.
  4. Jan 19, 2014 at 9:16 AM
    #44
    putnamqdm

    putnamqdm Member

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    Makes a lot more sense than the method mentioned without disconnecting sway bar and tie rod. I wasn't seeing how that was possible thanks.
     
  5. Jan 19, 2014 at 9:20 AM
    #45
    putnamqdm

    putnamqdm Member

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    Would you mind explaining how use the hammer and cable? or is that on video?
     
  6. Jan 19, 2014 at 9:29 AM
    #46
    tacomataco2

    tacomataco2 Well-Known Member

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    you can wrap the wire around the cv axle, secure it to the hammer and pull the hammer, jerking the cv out of the diff, like removing a tooth with string and a door! Or take a pry and hammer, position the pry bar on the housing of the cv axle and tap it out with the hammer. Takes like 2 taps
     
  7. Jan 19, 2014 at 11:09 AM
    #47
    DryCreek

    DryCreek Well-Known Member

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    As OP stated, I did same and was very easy. Had to change a wheel bearing and threw a new cv in while I was there.
     
  8. Jan 19, 2014 at 1:06 PM
    #48
    putnamqdm

    putnamqdm Member

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    Thank you will give it a try this week.
     
  9. Jan 19, 2014 at 5:53 PM
    #49
    putnamqdm

    putnamqdm Member

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    Well gave it a try but nothing ever goes easy. Tie rod detached as well as sway bar joints and lower ball joint everything floating freely but Can't Get the axle out of spindle side just not budging. Any helpful tips?
     
  10. Jan 19, 2014 at 6:16 PM
    #50
    tacoma4

    tacoma4 Well-Known Member

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    I had to bang on mine a bit to break it loose before it slid out of the hub/spindle. Be careful what you hammer on though, I put the axle nut on the CV shaft and pounded on it, ended up destroying the threads of the nut and had to buy another. I think I will use a rubber mallet or put a block of wood in between next time.
     
  11. Jan 19, 2014 at 6:49 PM
    #51
    putnamqdm

    putnamqdm Member

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    I did the same thing and the nut destroyed the threads. Getting a new axle isn't end of the world.. do you know of any tricks getting the new axle back in and seated correctly?
     
  12. Jan 19, 2014 at 7:15 PM
    #52
    tacoma4

    tacoma4 Well-Known Member

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    Are you sure the axle threads are messed up and not the nut? I think the nut is quite a bit softer than the cv shaft. To get it back in I just put it in the diff as far as it would go and had a helper put a prybar into the little indentations on the inboard shaft piece, not sure what it's called, but then just a few taps and it popped in. I think I had the c-clip open side facing down. On the spindle you just slip it through and tighten the axle nut (173 ft/lbs if I remember right). Just make sure the splines are seated in the hub fully before you tighten it down.
     
  13. Jan 20, 2014 at 6:43 AM
    #53
    putnamqdm

    putnamqdm Member

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    I'm feeling totally screwed just went to install new seal and axle drivers side and noticed half the needle bearing and race is separated an apart. I have no clue where to go from here?? Any suggestions how does the inner bearing come out and install?
     
  14. Jan 20, 2014 at 10:45 AM
    #54
    tacoma4

    tacoma4 Well-Known Member

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    It's pressed into the diff. You can get an EGCS puller tool or try and make your own. Check out this thread for info. When it's out you can put a needle bearing back in or replace with the EGCS bushing. You have to drive it back in with a bushing or seal setter. I used a big socket that happened to fit to get the bushing in.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...nt-differential-bearing-vibration-thread.html
     
  15. Jan 20, 2014 at 12:10 PM
    #55
    putnamqdm

    putnamqdm Member

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    I'm waving the white flag. Can't find the other half of needle bearings or race. Could only think they made it into the diff. No Idea how? I only had truck 10 days no noises. Put the 2 inch leveling kit in and a day or two later noticed a leak occurred from seal. So off to the dealer via flatbed it went for a differential removal.. Anyone think that the lift caused all this?
    I only added a 2 inch spacer on top of the strut?
     
  16. Jan 20, 2014 at 12:19 PM
    #56
    tacoma4

    tacoma4 Well-Known Member

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  17. Jan 21, 2014 at 1:08 PM
    #57
    putnamqdm

    putnamqdm Member

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    Bearing was ripped in two with only half seen sitting in the race. It's a mystery where the other half went cage and all gone? No scoring or heat damage to the axle race or splines either. Gonna cost an arm and a leg but left it with Toyota to split the diff in two and check it out just in case it's all inside the gear housing.
     
  18. Jan 21, 2014 at 1:17 PM
    #58
    putnamqdm

    putnamqdm Member

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    I thank everyone for their support with the axles your advice was put to good use.
    The easy method for removing the axle does work for a TRD Tacoma as long as the Tie rod, sway bar joint and lower ball joint is detached. It was fairly easy.
    Once my diff is back together I'm swapping out the spacer lift for Bilstein 5100 coil over with 1.5 inch lift to level truck.
     
  19. Jan 31, 2014 at 1:09 PM
    #59
    toyohtadude

    toyohtadude Well-Known Member

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    Sub'd . . . torn drivers side outer boot.

    Question for those buying the RockAuto part (Which one did you choose as there are 5 options?).... what's your opinion on the quality vs what you pulled out for the OEM? I'd hate to go on the cheap to discover this isn't going to last.......
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2014
  20. Feb 3, 2014 at 8:25 AM
    #60
    toyohtadude

    toyohtadude Well-Known Member

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    I ended up getting a new one at O'Reilly's for $79.00. Installed it yesterday but did not have the "express" experience. First, I had to beat the thing with a dead-blow hammer to separate it from the hub... then even with the slide hammer, it was still a bear to remove from the differential. I had to keep turning it to find the sweet spot for that inner clip. Once it was in position, the axle popped out. The new one went in easy enough.

    Took about 75 minutes, then another 40 minutes cleaning up the greasy mess from the old boot slinging it everywhere. Topped off the diff with the gear oil and buttoned it up.

    I'm going to order new boots for the OEM and rebuild it for later in the event I need it.
     

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