CV Axle Replacement ... express method!!

Is an alignment required after doing it this way since you're disconnect the LBJ from the spindle?

 

No but if your truck doesn't drive straight then yes and when I did my CV I didn't take off the lbj

 

While installing a 3rd gens suspension on my 2nd gen I discovered a small pin hole under the clamp on the outer boot. The next day it popped and made a mess. I


My initial plan was to install a aftermarket and then rebuild my cv with the Toyota kit for down the road.

Then I discovered cvj and am leaning towards going with them for a new axle. It seems like the best way to retain a oem axle. If I get 6 years out of it I’d be very happy. My question is what is the difference in quality between the neopreme boots and Oem quality, and would you spend $199 over $123 for the oem boots? I live in Oregon and the truck sees harsh driving conditions but little off road.

 

Spend that much for the boots? Seems like a lot. I buy replacement CVs from autozone for about $85 and warranty them when they grenade. Fix the boot on the OEM for a couple bucks and carry it as a trail spare.

 

I edited my post for clarification axle and boot https://www.cvjreman.com/product-tag/9808/

 

Mine was not that easy but, not bad. I had to remove the skid pan to pry the inner CV from the differential and that took some time. I used a pickle fork to pry the C clip loose for the most part. I did not see that step mentioned. I forgot to remove the sway bar and so the lower arm bolts were 2" off, that was a head scratcher until I figured it out...

 

Alright I’m doing my passenger cv and when I went to loosen the sway bar link from the spindle this happened. How bad is this? Does this mean I need to replace this also?

 

No need to replace it ,its fine if that's all that came out

 

Do both left and right CV axles have the same part #?

 

yes

 

Thx

 

Seems like this question hasn't been answered, hoping someone can clarify: does tie rod need to be removed? Tie rod is a pain in the butt!

 

I replaced the right side cv axle yesterday with a Cardone. Was about $55 on Rockauto. I had a buddy helping and we were done in 20 minutes. Remove 35 mm center hub nut and two 19 mm bolts underneath. Have buddy hold rotor and hub out and to side being careful with speed sensor line etc. Remove old axle. I used small pry bar. Lubricate splines of new axle with some gear oil. Insert with open ends of circlip downward. Hardest part was getting the circlip to pop in. Tapped the end with the hammer to ball peen hammer trick and it went in easily. Didn’t mess the threads up at all. Put some blue loctite on threads of the 19 mm bolts. Torque to specs. Air tools make it a breeze too. So the answer to previous post is No. didn’t have to remove tie rod end.

 

Any tips for popping out the tie rod end, been tapping it with a big hammer but it wont pop out.

 

Use a tie rod separator or a small 2 jaw puller. Sometimes a good hit on the side (knuckle) can shock it free.

 

I had a hard time with the one on my GX. Even positioned the LCA so tie rod was relatively non-angled to avoid any tension, and it didn’t want to give. Finally gave it a pretty hard hit and it let go. Had the castle nut inverted to protect threads and put a ball peen up against the end and hit that with the sledge.

I know people say that’s not really the ideal way to do it for risk of tie rod end damage but it worked for me and was the last bastard in the way of getting my CV out.

 

thanks for the reply guys, I got the tie rod separator and cv axle out, but can't get the new one in to save my life! Any tips for getting it to pop in. I put a small dab of grease on the c clip but cant get the shaft to pop in.

 

C clip open end facing down.....

 

Bigger hammer.

 

Tried c clip down no go, pulled c clip and reshaped with socket and still no go. Granted I was trying to do it by myself. After trying for couple hours ended up hurting wrist so stopped for the night. Got a buddy coming over and will use the 4 lb hammer while compressing the axle