CV axle replacement

Yeah man, I saw all of your posts and figured if the boots lasted you 7k, they should last me at least 20k, lol! But thanks for all the info, super helpful.

 

Here’s a photo of the CV axle as it sits in driveway. Sorry for dark picture.

 

You got rid of some lift?

That's a much better angle.

 

Off the shop lift makes a world of difference . Looks fine.

 

Ok. Thanks. I still need to fix this CV joint b/c it’s a cheap replacement and clunks. It only has about 200 miles on it.

I figured if I’m going in there, I’d replace ball joints and bolts line Area51 recommended. What about UCAs? May as well make this a whole weekend thing. I don’t do any serious off-roading, is it still worth the upgrade?

 

If your alignment is within spec, and you don't wheel, you don't need an aftermarket UCA.

 

What Andy said. Unless your alignment is hell due to the OME springs/5100Billys, I wouldn't worry about it.

As for the LBJs, when were they last replaced? Only reason I mentioned the LBJ bolts was you had a shop work on it and who knows what they torqued them too. If anything, you still should be talking to the shop about the CV they installed that started clunking. Anyway, if its been a while or you don't recall if they have ever been replaced, then I'd put it on the short list.

 

I don’t know if the LBJs were ever replaced (unless you count Nixon…). I told the shop I was going to replace it with an OEM one (I bought the one on eBay that you sent me). I plan on going through it like the guy in the video you posted (or sending it to the fellow that did yours). The shop is going to give me a credit on the parts. When I told them that nobody really uses the aftermarket ones, he just looked at me funny.

I don’t mind changing the UCAs, but it sounds like it’s not needed. Mine are kinda rusty, so that was more the driver behind my question.

 

haven't read all the replies, but if you had it up in the air on jack stands with the axle fully extended, a clunk from the axle when you rotate the tire is normal.

 

I read that article in the ball joints and I’m quite certain that these guys would not have torqued the bolts to only 37 lb/ft (or whatever the FSM called for).

 

But it only did it on the new (non-OEM) sude. The driver side was able to spin relatively easy and not get stuck. Plus now when I drive it, it feels like it pulls to the right. Not sure if that is just a placebo-effect, but I still like the idea of putting a rebuilt OEM back in there.

 

aftermarket axles do not extend like the OEM ones do and will bind sooner than the OEM will. Unless they're those aftermarket extended axles some places are selling now.

I have OEM on one side and a Pep Boys special axle on the other, with the truck on a lift the OEM side has at least a full inch or more of more droop than the aftermarket axle side. The aftermarket ones bind up sooner.

But if it's pulling that's probably something else not related to the cv axle, might need an alignment.

 

lol "Pep Boys Special"

Legit q, Is that a real thing or you just poking fun at their product?

 

Just poking fun, it's a generic parts store axle like ones you get at The Zone or Advanced, nothing special really. It's actually lasted me a few years now but I haven't been wheeling much in that time anymore

 

Got it. I hear you though, priorities.

 

Oh god I remember; difference was huge.

 

This showed up today. I haven’t ordered the reboot kit, but I did reach out to the member that worked on Area51’s axles.

The shop that did the work said they would install this one for free and give me a credit on the aftermarket ‘clunker’. Is it really that hard to do it myself? I think I’d rather do the work and just give them back the aftermarket one in a box. would you recommend I do LBJs at the same time? Sounds like replacing the UCAs is not necessary for me.

Of course, I’m out of commission right now due to COVID, so nothing is happening this weekend.

 

It's a super easy job. No special tools. Just take your time with it, there are a lot of write ups and videos out there to guide you step by step. The trickiest part your first few times is getting the old axle out/new one to pop in but it will.

My first time, I rushed it ended up cross threading the axle nut when I installed the new one. Foolishly figured it was fine until next time I had to deal with it....300ish miles later my wheel bearing failed lol.

If you take a hammer to the axle to help push it in, make sure to leave the axle nut on the end so you don't damage the threads. That was the mistake I made that lead to the cross threading the first time.


Do the LBJs at the same time, you have to unbolt them anyway to do the CV axle and it's just another few easy steps to put new ones on. Again, tons of good write ups on here for LBJs too.

 

Ok, cool. Thanks for the vote of confidence! This forum is so helpful!

 

Yeah it's quick and easy