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CV Boot Tear

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by 53flattie, May 19, 2011.

  1. May 19, 2011 at 7:19 AM
    #1
    53flattie

    53flattie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I noticed yesterday that I have a tear in my driver's front CV boot. It's very fresh because I'm under my truck a good bit and I haven't noticed it before. Also, the grease that has made it's way out of the boot is still clean and not packed with dirt, so I know it hasn't been there very long.

    Assuming the inners of the CV joint are not bad, is it possible to have only the boot replaced? Seems a shame to have to buy a whole new CV axle if only the boot is torn.

    I know they make the "slip-over" replacement boots (or at least I've seen them in the past) but I'm looking for a better alternative. Ideally, I'd like to remove the CV axle and take it to someone and have the boot completely replaced. Is that possible?
     
  2. May 19, 2011 at 11:49 AM
    #2
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    The only difficult part is getting the axle off. Removing the old boot, disassembling the CV joint, cleaning, reassembly, lubing and replacing the boot is not only possible but very easy once the axle is off.

    I drove my Rodeo for about 5 Kmiles when the inner boots tore (I never put it in 4WD and so didn't load the joints). The outside was all caked with grease and sand but the insides were fairly clean. After cleaning and re-packing the joints I drove it for another 60-70K before trading it with no problems.

    Removing the axles on this Tacoma look to be a lot easier than the Rodeo. I assume the joints are as easily disassembled but if not, brake cleaner will work wonders to clean out the old grease!

    OH yeah.... use ONLY CV joint grease which generally comes in a boot kit along with bands.
     
  3. May 19, 2011 at 12:52 PM
    #3
    MJonaGS32

    MJonaGS32 MJ on a GS

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    I had a hard time taking the axle out, so I just replaced it all underneathe the truck
     
  4. May 19, 2011 at 3:13 PM
    #4
    DDD

    DDD Shine bright like a hymen

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    Anyone have a video or diagram of how to rebuild a CV axle?

    I have been hearing some popping coming from my CV axles when driving slowly and turning in forward and reverse. I would like to just rebuild the joints if its possible to get the parts.
     
  5. May 19, 2011 at 3:20 PM
    #5
    ktmrider

    ktmrider Senior Member

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  6. May 19, 2011 at 3:55 PM
    #6
    DDD

    DDD Shine bright like a hymen

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    ^ Thanks. I was confused a bit about why you have to cut the axle or break the clip to remove the center axle shaft from the Birfield joint.

    I found this video. Explains it a little better. I guess to re-assemble after breaking the clip, you just place a new clip on the outter clip notch and just press it back into the joint?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0_jL83jMH8
     
  7. May 19, 2011 at 4:08 PM
    #7
    rondog

    rondog your TW web developer!

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    I wish mine was that easy when I swapped mine with the TX extended axles
     
  8. May 19, 2011 at 5:40 PM
    #8
    ktmrider

    ktmrider Senior Member

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    and that is what scared me away from doing the install myself, well that and the gussets. So Im having a shop do it on wensday
     
  9. May 20, 2011 at 4:15 AM
    #9
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    Wow... that birfield is a lot different from that Rodeo outer joint. But I wonder why you'd have to break it open just to replace the boot.

    Couldn't you just slip the old boot off over the shaft, clean the birfield really well with brake cleaner, repack and reboot?

    Also, looking at the service manual it doesn't appear you have to remove the inner joint cup: just disassemble the joint on the truck and take the drive shaft, with tripod, out. That way you can avoid possible damage to the oil seal.
     
  10. May 20, 2011 at 6:40 AM
    #10
    Wicked 2007

    Wicked 2007 Well-Known Member

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    shaft removal is actually pretty easy. Chase at east coast gears had a full pictured how too if you search. here is the description:

    Remove Front wheels:
    Remove Skid Pans:
    Drain Diff fluid 10mm Allen:
    Separate Tie rod ends, a cheap tierod separator can be purchased or rented from an auto parts store or alternately one can use a hammer and give a good smack to the spindle tierod body. Tie rod separator is easy and cheap, do not use a fork tool you will ruin the boot.

    Remove Spindle cab with a small srewdriver or chisel, work around the edge slowly and don't beat it to death they damage easily, once separated use a prior bar to pop it off: Remove Cotter pin and lock retainer: Remove axle nut 36mm w/ impact gun my battery powered electric took these off, if they are stuck or don't have power tools have an assistant hold the brakes while you put a breaker bar on it, if no assistant is available the nut can be broken loose by setting the tires on the ground in park and using a breaker bar, this should be done early on obviously. Remove Sway bar link nut and pull link away from spindle this free up more travel: Remove lower ball joint Bolts: There are only 2 early trucks had 4 bolts The spindle is now ready to be pulled away from the axle shaft giving you room to swing it out away from the CV, this allows for CV removal. The splines of the CV can be fairly seized in the internal hub splines. Screwing the axle nut back on shaft and popping the end of it, with a dead bow will free it up. Getting the spindle away from the shaft is much easier with an assistant but possible by yourself, pull rotor spindle assembly away while pulling CV shaft back towards diff. Position spindle to the rear and secure or have an assistant hold out of the way while shaft is being removed. Remove CV shafts- use a pry bar to pop shaft out of tube and diff. Internal c-clip is holding shaft in. A big brass drift can also be placed where prior bar is placed and can be knocked out with a hammer.
     
  11. May 20, 2011 at 7:33 AM
    #11
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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  12. May 20, 2011 at 7:47 AM
    #12
    Texoma

    Texoma Well-Known Member

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    With all the work it takes to re boot the axle, you're better off getting a brand spankin' new axle instead. Just from expirience.
     
  13. May 20, 2011 at 7:50 AM
    #13
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    x2 $45 (less shipping) from Rockauto. And if you really want to rebuild the CV, you can save it for a rainy day. Then you've got a spare.
     
  14. May 20, 2011 at 11:30 AM
    #14
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    Are they new or rebuilds?

    but seriously, I don't know if it matters: the boots alone could push $45 for a DIY rebuild.
     
  15. May 20, 2011 at 11:39 AM
    #15
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    New. Made by Cardone
     
  16. May 23, 2011 at 7:28 AM
    #16
    53flattie

    53flattie [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Wow - only $45 for a new CV axle... I just assumed I would be looking at $300 or $400 for that... Heck, I paid at least $100 for one for a Honda Accord, and changed it myself.

    Guess I'll just go this route.

    Thanks for the info!
     
  17. May 23, 2011 at 7:48 AM
    #17
    KenpachiZaraki

    KenpachiZaraki Its Wicked Flow BITCHES!!

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    I need to change my cv's out I'll be looking at rockauto for parts!
     
  18. May 23, 2011 at 9:01 AM
    #18
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    Rockauto is a vendor here and also has a member discount. Check their forum section for details.
     
  19. May 25, 2011 at 3:02 PM
    #19
    Hops

    Hops Well-Known Member

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    The boots alone are 40 bucks from toyota so this is a great deal
     
  20. Aug 10, 2011 at 9:29 PM
    #20
    stmpjmpr

    stmpjmpr Well-Known Member

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    just placed order. hope it all works out ok.
     
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