CV Boot Tearing Theory

Have you considered OEM Toyota remanufactured axles?

 

Simply because most good off road tires are only available in an E, particularly when you get into larger sizes. Also, if do actually off road a C tire punctures and is more prone to sidewall tears at low psi’s

 

I haven't yet, I will add that to my list. Thanks

 

Correct. I personally would like a D rated for the protection. We have a lot of sharp rocks when you leave the pavement. But like I said, off road is maybe 10% of my normal driving and it's in the summer. So lots of dust and rocks what takes 20 minutes to get to the lakes up the street in a vehicle normally takes a hour and a half, so I am not beating my truck up too bad

 

Static it may not look extreme but in the downtravel like over speed bumps and articulation id wager it would bring it to that extreme angle. In addition to the pleats of the boot chafing as they rotate as opposed to stock angles where there is no ‘angular delta’

 

So would a CV axles with mild lift boot be the recommendation?

 

are you paying for a new CV every time the boot tears? Until you figure out 'why' you could just get a CV boot kit for roughly $50 and replace the boots rather than buy an entirely new CV. And if you do buy a new one, at least keep the old ones and maybe re-boot them on your own time ... then next time swap them in.

 

I was unaware I was supposed to be keeping them. For $830.00 dollars they "should" be replacing them, so I will ask to have the cores put in the bed of the truck next time. I was under the impression when the boot cracks and breaks open, road gunk gets in to the "splines?" and starts to wear them down, so I never asked for them back. I never got to the point of them making clunking noises which I was told, that is when they need to be replaced immediately. I would change them out when I could feel my front end starting to vibrate or feel like things were going south.

I guess you learn something new everyday

 

Generally speaking, the shop needs to turn in the cores so they can be rebuilt / remanufactured. If they don't turn in the core(s), they - and thus you - have to eat the core charge.

 

Consider these:

https://www.cvjreman.com/about-cvj-axles/

I just tore an oem cv boot for the first time, not sure its age or mileage but it's at least 4 years and 50k miles--so as long as I've had the truck. The whole time with "extended travel" shocks and ucas, e-load 33s, and extensive spirited off road driving adventures.

OEM shafts and boots are high quality and don't mind a few inches of lift.

Aftermarket axles and boots are notoriously low quality. The shafts are smaller, the joints are weaker, and the neoprene boots wear out quicker.

You can get rebuilt OEM axles from CVJ. Or just boots to rebuild you own. The optional silicone boots are claimed to be more durable, I haven't yet installed mine but they sure look nice.

Improper boot installation will cause premature failure, regardless of material. See the CVJ site above for adjustment instructions. I suspect this is your problem. However, if low quality aftermarket parts are being used, that could be the issue too. It isn't your tires. Yes, bigger tires can cause the CV boots to tear sooner. But that's a different kind of problem, typically accompanied by a very loud noise and an immediate loss of front wheel drive, followed by the sound a flailing half shaft.


@myn75, E-load tires make a lot of sense in rocky terrain, that's why I buy them. I'd get even beefier tires if I could -- I still manage to pop them every now and then. It's not a matter of weight capacity, it's one of sidewall durability. Passenger tires wouldn't last a month on my truck.

Of course there are tradeoffs... my mileage is abysmal! But I frequently go to remote inhospitable places alone, it's a lot of fun. And... well since I can't seem to make good decisions, I have to at least buy good tires.

 

This and call it a day.

 

Agree the shop will swap the core if you’re buying new CVs from the shop each time. Just seems like a lot of $$$ for torn boots. Many on here buy the lifetime NAPA reman cvs - replace them yourself and then keep / reboot the others as spares. Future failures are warrantied. Or - if possible - find a shop that’s willing to swap CVs that you bring them. That would save a ton of $$$

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/napa-drive-axle-cv-axle-differences.599207/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cv-axle-replacement-express-method.266309/

 

…because I’ve gone through 2 drivers & 1 passenger inner boots in the last 18 months on my 1st gen.

Op, I did rebuild with ORS High angel boots, not sure what they have for a 2nd gen but maybe something. I have to solve some other problems before I can test the new boots.

 

When I was looking up Mid Lift CV's, this is the first place that popped up, it looks like a good option. And thanks for the input

 

So I just got off the phone with my mechanic, Napa, and CVJ.

My mechanic said they have been putting Napa CV's on my truck. I called Napa asking about the warranty, and it does say that a lift does in fact void the warranty. The lady I spoke to said she would open a case and my mechanic would need to call them and diagnose the issue with a lvl 2 tech to see if I could get a refund/replacement. I asked if he had heard of CVJ and he was in Denver for 10 years and that's all they used.

I called CVJ and spoke to a tech and he recommended 9808TR

https://www.cvjreman.com/product/9808tr/

But the bad new is, he can only take Toyota OEM shafts, so $430 bucks a pop. His diagnosis was the lift causing the fins to rub together and causing the damage.

So go back to OEM, refurb OEM, or blow my Christmas wad on new CVJ's. Since the concesses on the sub seems to be my lift, CVJ is looking to be the way to go. Unfortunately it is -20 outside and my yard is covered in a foot of snow and no garage, so my mechanic would get to do the dirty work.

CVJ sound about right? Thanks to everyone for your input, and have a happy holiday

 

Im sure you have this resolved by now, but fyi, I have been calling my local Toyota parts counter (Vegas) for 5-6 months now waiting for a remanufactured axle to become available for a 2nd gen. They have called around in different states and they havent been able to find one anywhere and there is no eta from Toyota as to when one would be available again. So unless multiple dealerships are lying to me, they seem to be unicorns right now. Also, 2 people at that desk have told me that part of the Toyota reman deal is I have to exchange my OEM axle to get the part. So remanufactured might not be an option for you anyways.

I cant tell in your pictures but your lift doesnt seem extreme and unless you have an end link or something that is making contact with your boot, I would add my bet it’s just bad rubber. I had mine rebuilt once after my oem boots split after 7 years, and the new ones with aftermarket boots split in just over a year. I personally think OEM rubber is always going to be the longest lasting option unless you have a big lift and go for the pricier long travel boots (even CVJs website alludes to that), but oem is always pricey. But if you can somehow finesse someone at the parts counter to give you a friends and family discount, it’s not as bad… I just paid $436 total for one OEM axle from my local shop with a discount from a friend of a friend…

 

Continued....

I had a pow wow with my mechanics and we settled on full warranty for the CV's from the beginning of this thread, so no out of pocket for me on this test. They used Napa's and after 4k miles. They are already cracking in the same spots.

So once again, I would ask if any one can see an issue with angles or anything jump out at them. Again I am running a OME Hvy for my ARB bumper and nothing else.

Thanks for any input

 

I’ve been through this. Got CVJ remanned axles with the red silicon inner boots…they ripped after a couple years and they are not inexpensive. I would honestly just get a couple of these https://parts.frontiertoyota.com/oe...axle-2005-2015-tacoma-4wd-434300407084?c=az0x put them in and as Ricardo said “call it a day”. Stay away from that NAPA & Auto Zone Crap. Cheap parts that fail soon after you install them. Waste of time, money, & labor.

 

My boots both tore on the inner, the passenger side first and a few weeks later my driver side both on mild fire roads to dispersed camping. I have e rated wildpeaks in 265 70 17 with a 2.75 bilstein lift. Used the oem rebuild kit on both sides and my mileage is 85k miles will report back

 

Holy shit you’ve been replacing the entire axle when boots tear??? I know it’s a pain in the ass, but just reboot them when they tear. As for why the keep tearing? I’m not entirely sure. But I am sure you could be saving loads of money just replacing the boots. Try the CVJ long travel boots, I think they’re orange in color, I’ve heard good things about those.