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cv boots

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Hambone155, Jun 1, 2009.

  1. Jun 1, 2009 at 7:09 PM
    #1
    Hambone155

    Hambone155 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    blew out the cv boot on my driver front.

    how much are they and how hard are they to replace
     
  2. Jun 1, 2009 at 7:11 PM
    #2
    tigerfan00

    tigerfan00 BECAUSE INTERNETS!! Staff Member

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    http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=113

     
  3. Jun 1, 2009 at 7:12 PM
    #3
    Hambone155

    Hambone155 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    port and polish intake manifold, supercharger, pulley for charger, lifted, tires, deckplate, (doing full engine build)
    nice thanks
     
  4. Jun 1, 2009 at 7:13 PM
    #4
    tigerfan00

    tigerfan00 BECAUSE INTERNETS!! Staff Member

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    :thumbsup:

    ive never tackled that task...ive found it much easier to find some used ones on ttora or something and just slap in a whole cv axle
     
  5. Jun 1, 2009 at 9:53 PM
    #5
    TRD4x4858

    TRD4x4858 Taco Traitor!

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    Check to see how much whole axles are at a parts store, sometimes they are almost as cheap as a boot kit and easier to install
     
  6. Jun 4, 2010 at 10:38 AM
    #6
    skulltacoma

    skulltacoma Make more better!

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    CAI, dynomax turbo exhaust system,tinted windows medium on the fronts to match the backs, hid kit hi and low beam, pop and lock tailgate, painted calipers red with caliper paint, put 2.25' leveling kit in front and a 1" block in the rear. its now level and rides WAY better (readylift)>way nicer than the revtek my buddy has i think its garbage imo<, hurst "T" shifter, 18 x 10 american racing (can't remember the name) chrome rims with badass 5 inch lip :), 12 inch rockford fosgate punch with rockford fosgate 600 watt amp, bushwacker fender flares (cheaper than replacing the one i wrecked lol) ,kc light bar with kc lights, toyota aluminum stamped skid plate, and a skull front license plate. More mods to come, thinking a 6 inch lift and arb bumper etc etc.
    k i know no one has talked here in a while stupid me ripped a cv shaft and i didn't do what was mentioned above rather i pulled the entire cv out to rebuild it with some boots and it worked really really well. and i was just going to get my buddy at the lube shop to top off the diff fluid :):) it all looked like it was going to work until i noticed hey the cv isn't actually in the diff wtf???? uh OH!!! so my new problem is where i went wrong and i have a sneaky suspicion that i didn't actually lock it back in because when i was putting it back in i found the "sweet spot" and it slid in ... i never thought to hammer it back on or anything. so im wondering if anyone has a detailed picture by picture with info about how to do this then i can figure wtf i messed up on.... other than that the other thing it could be is the inner diff to cv seal which i highly doubt because i was super careful and it looks more to be not locked in.... any ideas ??


    thanks well in advance i wanna go wheeling lol.

    i looked at this and this was an awesome looking picture by picture and made a lot of sense but doesn't go as far as the actual removal and putting the cv shaft back in but it is kinna the same area and this is kinna the type of picture by picture and info i would like to see http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/...6ta/038002.pdf
     
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