Cynicalriders "J0hnny5 is ALIVE!" 01 build thread.

Actually the flipped direction no longer matters for me as I don't need to have a tone ring lined up in a specific location anymore. And IIRC that retainer doesn't even get pressed up to the tone ring either way. Flipping it does nothing if you get the seal to ride dead nuts center regardless. What I did/do when I do these jobs is I mark the retainer with a sharpie and reinstall the axle, spin it a bunch and verify exactly where the seal rides.

If it still is leaking I will pull the axle out, replace the seal, pop the bearing cover off, repack it with grease and see how she goes.

 

Do you guys have serviceable bearings? Damn another reason to get a 1st gen LOL

 

Hell no, but if you are careful you can pry that red cover off above ^ I have done it in the past when I damaged an old cover and swapped it from the spare bearing I had.

 

This is the other side I did a couple years ago. This is where I can see flipping the retainer would be helpful because I guess it does actually help hold the tone ring on. But since I don't have a tone ring i can and did place that retainer where I needed it to be.

 

Gotcha, yeah definitely want to spend the $40-50 to replace the bearing if you’re pulling it off and doing all the work. In fact as soon as I saw a blown seal my mind is already at bearing replacement since you might be at it again if you don’t replace the bearing right away.

Yeah letting the seal ride on the full OD gives you a better chance at keeping the seal in contact with the retainer.

 

I did the grease trick and it worked out great. I also flipped the retainer, but I’m not sure I really needed to do that since I made sure I was centered up on the seal face.

 

The whole reason I figured I wouldn't flip the retainer was so I would have less risk of damaging the seal taking the axle in and out. Might be negligible though. I think flipping it does let you put the retainer further down the axle shaft and have better contact. I wish the retainer didn't have a bevel and you had a larger width to work with.

 

I was a little worried about losing that beveled lead too. In hindsight, I’d probably just do it in its normal orientation since I’d use the grease trick to dial it in anyway.

Regardless, here’s hoping it was just a blocked breather and your seal and bearing are still ok.

 

I just remember that I was battling the retainer potentially contacting the inside of the axle housing and binding when I was trying to dial it in too, so potentially the flipped route is the better route to go. The more we play with this shit the more we learn on what works and what doesn't so I always welcome the discussion lol.

Thankfully if I do need to replace the bearing again I have all the tools needed to do it. Though I think my press tool is in @Wheelspinner 's hands. Shit.

 

No, not in my hands, it’s somewhere in the abyss I call a basement

 

Bringing this thread back with some updates for my sanity. Got a snowboard trip up to VT in March that I am trying to prepare for. My goal for this trip is to NOT fuck around with a ground tent and sleep in the bed of the truck. The main thing I need to happen in order to do this is to close up the back finally. I need to get a stick of steel tube, make the back transition and then find someone to sew up a back door. I also need to fix the leaky axle seal that still seems to be leaking. I am gathering all the shit I need for a complete bearing replacement in case play is awful, otherwise I am going to replace the seal, repack the bearing and slap it back in and see what's up.

This trips priorities:

Fix drivers side rear axle seal leak

Get a back door stitched up to attach to current rack.

Get tube cut and bent/welded to the back of the current rack.


Last trip priorities:

Fix locker actuator

Fix stripped bolts in frame for t case skids

Re-glue mirror in bed control box

Nice to have:

New exhaust mount from Dirt Skum to better center the exhaust in the bezel

AC pulley

Decided to de-prioritize the steering rack leak since it's far less bad than I thought.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Alright making this it's own post. I took a deep dive into the goals for the truck, and the things I want to improve. This list is always changing/ being improved upon, completed or added to.

As always green was just completed, BOLD is priority/realistic. Anything previously green gets deleted (though I still need to update the build specs lol). Of course this is all for my sanity's sake.

Maintenance:

Armor up rear diff, fix plug, or weld plug permanently shut and replace two studs with bolts to drain

Plugs

Wires

Carrier Bearing (Might wait on this, still feels tight)

Paint rear bumper, drill holes out bigger to accept 3/4" shackles

Rebuild the spare alternator (need rebuild kit)

Rebuild spare cv's

Power steering rack, filter and system bleed

New OEM ac tensioner pulley

Fix drivers side rear axle seal leak

Replace clutch/TOB that's driving me insane

Interior Mods:

Test fridge on drivers side

Put oem cup holder back in to test car seat fit

Get drivers seat repaired

Install seat heaters

Platform in back with taller rear locking storage, a place Mac can be raised up on while the fridge stays at the same height)

Lit up cup holders

Tablet lighting solution using Raspberry Pi

Switch reconfiguration

Put in cubby under the fridge:

Change of clothes, canned foods with long expirations, fire starter kit, emergency blanket, MRE's. Stuff that is worst case scenario survival shit.


Exterior Storage Mods:

Build a dual swing out tire carrier. The one swing out will contain the 35" tire, and a fold down table. The left side will hold the high lift and chain saw and will also have a fold down table. The goal is to make everything more accessible without needing to unload the truck. - Potentially decommissioning this idea.

Get a back door stitched up to attach to current rack.

Get tube cut and bent/welded to the back of the current rack.

Figure out a ramp mount solution when hauling the bike. Maybe prinsu rack on cab?

Potentially add a roof rack above the cab to hold traction pads/a plano case that contains recovery gear. The jury is still out on this concept. I would like to avoid adding anymore weight that high if I can. See ramp mount point. ^


Performance upgrades:

ABS controller delete/LSPV delete/manual valve install and complete fluid flush

Dual battery setup, one battery in current location, the other under the bed. This will be the house battery that the fridge, and all lighting accessories will run on.

Crawl box: I need lower gears to really take the truck to the next level crawling wise.

Build/get built beefier drive shafts

Custom Alcans or Deavers: Once I get the average weight of the rear figured out as a typical always on rolling weight, I want leaves to be able to hold the weight of my normal everyday load. Airbags will be the interim solution.

Install Manual hub tube


Lighting Mods:

3 additional floods to rock lights (one facing from the rear bumper to the diff, and two near the front facing down near the bumpers, goal is to eliminate the current dead spots)

Hood lights on pin switch

Two Toyota rock lights as additional turn signals


Misc Exterior/ Camp Mods:

Redline Hood struts

Heat exchanger in engine bay for warm showers

Fiberglass fenders and bedsides (this will eliminate some of the body glamage I have gathered over the years)

Half doors

New bedside decals

Print up decals of trails from Moab, put on cab

Window tint

Far future plans:

LT or 3-link


Bike mod list currently:

Black side plastics
New graphics
Suspension Tune

I also went full teenager and put yellow lamin-x on the DD.

I am still undecided on it, but I will likely remove it. I like how the yellow contrasts the blue though. Getting the DD tinted this week, and will probably do the DRL on all the time mod on it.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

Have you ever used a reamer before? I used one to open up my spindle tie rod mount and it absolutely ripped through it. Didn’t even know it was a thing.

$53 Accusize Industrial Tools Hss Spiral Flute Aligning Reamer, 3/4'' Cutting Diameter, 1/2'' Shank Diameter, 0522-0034

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075DF8P6S

 

I have not, but that does seem like the best tool for the job for sure. I still question that project since the 5/8" shackles seem to be holding up well but are laughably undersized. Not sure i want to put money into a bumper I want to replace though.

 

Out of curiosity I looked up the WLL and the 5/8 is 3.25 ton and the 3/4 is 4.75 ton, which is honestly closer than I thought. So on one hand it will most likely be fine but on the other hand, a shackle is the the last piece of recovery gear I want to fail because that’s projectile city. What’re you trying to replace the bumper with?

 

Coastal but unsure with or without swing out.

 

God that's a weird looking topper and rear hatch

 

Oooo I like that.

 

Yeah buddy!

I’ve heard those are cool…

 

Wait please tell me that's not in your pile too...

 

Yes.

Yes it is.