Cynicalriders "J0hnny5 is ALIVE!" 01 build thread.

Are they ADD stubs? Because you're running manual hubs, right?

 

It honestly feels a lot less stiff but I think that has to do more with the valving of the shocks than anything. The shocks I had before were super stiff compared to the 5125's but they were definitely more street oriented. They feel fine to me, but I also have at least 200lbs added with bumper, spare 35" tire (that tire is 75lbs alone), CO2 and tool box.

Also good to have, and I'll probably pick up as well. I got the Colby's specifically for Moab.

Turns out I'll be doing both. When I merged/researched the harnesses the CKSA-12 had power going from my blue sea, through the switch, and straight to the compressor. The CKMA has power going straight through to the compressor, but there is still a hot coming from the blue sea, to the switch, and to the relay. Other than that merging the harnesses was easy, I didn't need to fuck with the switch at all, or pull wires through the firewall. I just removed the leads from the one harness and moved them to the other harness. The only thing I didn't do was move the ground that's going into the cab. That was on a ring terminal coming into the engine bay so I left that as is, and the other harness is grounded via the main harness it's on.

Old harness:



New harness opened up:



Successful merge:

This post explains the 2wd kit and why it was necessary.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-01-build-thread.290011/page-19#post-12926669

Another instance this might be used that I've seen is if you break your ADD tube off. Our buddy Ant did that and zip tied gallon zip lock bags around the ADD end of his diff to hold the gear oil in and drove home that way, with the cut stub shaft in the bearing to hold it together. I wouldn't recommend that for like a 5 hour drive, but it took him home a good 2.5 hours away.

That was for flex testing so I could see the shaft.


Other than the compressor project, got a couple other projects in the works. Tried to make a Box Rocket style in fender snorkel, but that won't work without glass fenders like he had.

This was my solution (will be glued and sealed obviously) in the works.



End cap will have holes drilled into it and a mesh screen. Basically trying to eliminate an the massive gaping hole with something the should block at least some dirt/water. Another member showed me how he used exhaust tube to go under the windshield cowl, might pursue that next instead. That would definitely be more protected than my PVC solution and tighter turns can be achieved with the exhaust tube.

Also got some goodies for upcoming projects. My water jerry came in to start my pressurized can project and my brand new OEM steering rack came in.

 

I think they delivered the steering rack to the wrong place

 

TOYODA ???

 

That's the original spelling

 

strange

 

You wish! Though since I go to this dealership a lot, I get employee pricing. Cheaper than camelback even. Got OEM OTRE's waiting to go on too.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akio_Toyoda

 

Damn! Wish I could find the hookup like that when it comes time to do mine

 

Still not cheap though. Still $502 just for the rack, but cheaper than I have seen online by like $40.

 

Hey how does your truck do rock crawling with the 5.29 gears and the 35s? Do you feel it crawls slow enough or like your still riding the clutch or smashing your way through more technical areas?

 

It crawls great! I do need to still do some clutch/gas magic in the really technical spots but it's literally only areas where an auto or crawl box would perform better.

Only for shit like this is where a crawlbox would be better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfR9dh4x0U0

But other general trails it is nice and slow.

 

Finally tackled the drain plug this weekend!
I'll have to shoot you a few pics.

 

Definitely do! I'll probably tackle that when I head to Ant's to build my jerry can holder.

Finished wiring/plumbing/installing the CKMA-12:



Comparison to the old CKSA-12 that was there:



Went a different direction for the ghetto snorkel.This goes into the fender and is pretty protected.



Still gotta paint and silicone.

Also when hooking up the compressor I found the studs on the Blue Sea are shittily pressed in, so when I unbolted the main terminals the studs fell inside. I used quick steel epoxy to set the studs back in place so they won't do that anymore.



Also went hiking with the pup and wife this weekend, and my pup amazes the crap out of me. She was scaling huge boulders and following me on all the dumb things I was doing.





She definitely seemed "at home" on the rocks.

 

Thanks for the help. Can't decide on a regear or just going dual cases. I live in Northern California where I do mostly rock crawling and I'm just tired of sitting on the clutch so much just to slow the crawl speed

 

My regear was for many reasons, to gain a front locker, to turn the 35's and to fix my front diff. And it's always been my solution to hopefully skip dual cases. Or at least postpone for another year or two. I can say that in 98% of the situations it definitely accomplishes that.

 

The regear is cheaper then going dual cases and if I can get around dropping that kind of money until I'm out of college it would be nice. I just needed someones feedback on how their truck handles crawling with the different gears since that's mostly the wheeling I do.

 

As Mike explained, I too didn't clutch much with my setup, mainly just to bump over obstacles - otherwise the lower gearing did it's job well. If you're strictly a crawler, and depending on the difficulty you're seeking, I'm not certain if a re-gear would satisfy your needs more than other options (i.e. solid axle). IFS tacos with front/rear lockers and gears do surprisingly well, but still can't compete with a solid axle in my opinion. Look at @malburg114 's build for inspiration. If you're set on IFS, Mikes build is great, as well as @Blackdawg, @jubei, @mrbeggins (old build), and my old build as well.

 

Thanks for the advice it's very helpful. I think the ifs is very capable for the crawling I'm doing. For now I'm just looking into my options to slow it down so that when i get places like the rubicon with the rock gardens and obstacles I can slow the truck down to not break parts and feel more in control. I'd solid axle but I just don't have the money for something like that right now and to do it the right way. I don't need to go over huge obstacles anyways just trying to get through the trails and keep up with my dads jeep for now without being miserable riding the clutch through the trip. I'm considering 35s and 5.29s like you guys have

 

Low gears help a ton.

4.88s with 33s and a manual is awesome. So is 5.29s if you're going 35s.

 

I miss my 99 reading all this...