Cynicalriders "J0hnny5 is ALIVE!" 01 build thread.

Why go through all that work to raise it an inch when you can do the ford gas tank between the frame rails and never have to worry about it? My gas tank is smashed to crap from dragging on rocks and I've fixed the skid several times and plated it with 1/8.

 

Fix AC, fuel filter (especially if its never been changed), fix rear diff & drain plug with stud eliminator, taillight, box vs weld on bracing dont see the difference and bracing is easier unless you really want that spare tire crossmember out of there. Then the rest of the Tundra brake mod, as you will see a huge improvement in stopping/safety.

 

I hit it enough to crease it causing a leak.

 

Using that space as a Jerry can holder for now. That's also a good bit of weight behind the axle effecting my weight bias. My as is already a good bit heavier than the front.

 

Your old TC ones are for sale? Honestly I should go with a sealed BJ, but I want to go uniball first just to see how it goes. Hot water and dual battery are sadly so far down the list unfortunately, but one day. Frame and shock work will happen ASAP, even if it won't be the big boy shocks I eventually will want.

I've dented mine so many times

Stud eliminator is so you drain via the studs right? Ideally I want to keep the plug and build up around it. But I guess that is the safer way to go in the end. I just really don't feel like pulling the third So pull the third, remove the bottom 3 studs, and replace them with flanged bolts?

So the frame boxing is two-fold. It's getting a proper rear shock setup in place while reinforcing the frame. I would love to then copy a setup similar to @Reh5108 and use the old tire crank to pull up two jerry cans for gas storage. This will let me carry 10 gallons of fuel, as well as remove one jerry from my bed. After that is removed I can put my one water facing the tailgate with the CO2 next to it. This will open up a good chunk of bed space for me while making my water accessible without removing it from the truck. I am working on making my setup more accessible, easier to use on trips, and still trying to avoid going swingout since @Rockbaron1 told me I will probably hate it, and I know the way I wheel, I probably will. I have been constantly told I am trying to have my cake and eat it too, and I couldn't agree more. It doesn't mean I will stop trying though. I likely want to come up with a custom soft top rack that allows motorcycles to be loaded in the bed with it on. It will let me haul lumber and sheet rock, have the ability to haul a bike, and still have dry storage on trips. The only thing I haven't fully figured out is what I can do about making my high lift more accessible.

 

They’re from All-Pro, but yeah, they’re my old uniball arms.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fs-all-pro-uniball-upper-control-arms-450-shipping.594894/

 

Yup stud eliminator removes the 3rd member studs and replaces with bolts installed from the inside diff out. Except for the bottom two that thread in like normal bolts. Also with stronger quality bolts you can increase the amount of torque and better seal and prevent the 3rd from pulling away at the axle 3rd mounting flange when under load.

Ahh I see! You'll be spending alot of time under there modifying to accomadate all that. Especially if you are able to create a new crossmember that ties new shock mounts and incorporate @Reh5108 fuel can holder idea. I'd agree, fully boxing would be better in your case as that would create a nice platform to build/weld off of.

Where is your hi-lift mounted currently?

Like the creativity and agree with the dual purpose bed use. About the only reason why I never bob'd my bed. And 100% agree no swingout, especially after seeing alot of the rigs at takeover and entrance to corum at big dogs as an example, come down off a rock/tree and get hung up bad.

 

I've been trying to figure out a better way for my hi lift that allows it to still be easily accessible. I use it all the time to level the truck to camp in. A sheath like idea is the best I can come up with but keeping it from moving around is tough. Pressure from the tailgate to secure it forward and back would be nice. For now it'll remain laying in the bed wedged in between some boxes.

Actually a couple pieces of flat stock and I bet it wouldn't be too difficult to make a sheath to slide it in.

 

This is the kit right?

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/trail-gear-toyota-differential-stud-eliminator-kit-140056-1-kit.html

The allen key button head bolts make me nervous. For at least the two that now will become the drain. Also wouldn't there always be at least a little old diff fluid in the diff draining this way? I'm still pretty torn on which direction to go. I know if I build up around the plug I will be giving more shit to drag and get stuck on. But I really like the idea of being able to still fully drain and have a magnet at the lowest point.

And yeah I think trying to make everything more efficient, have more space, have true dry storage, and make camp pack up a little faster. Currently my high lift is mounted to my tool box, which wasn't a big deal even when it was loaded with all my boxes. That changes with the addition of even a soft top, I can't just jump into the bed and grab it. You can see here, in order to get it, I need to unload half the truck I realized the pain when I needed to get it in Bald Eagle to free the chain saw from the tree I was cutting.

That's not a bad idea. I love the idea of a drawer system too so I don't need to carry as many boxes either. Would shorten pack up time too. Downside to that is the ability to carry mulch or wood to split.

 

Get the mulch delivered

Bummer you got rear ended... looks like your bumper fucked his day up pretty good though

 

https://westernmass.craigslist.org/ptd/d/florence-low-mileage-toyota-tacoma-and/6802819778.html

Check out #5 - new-ish tailgate and parts for J0hnny5

 

That tail gate look clean af

 

Damn that has it all! Get them doors, and taillights, and tailgate, he’ll pickup the whole thing unraisin your truck! Can even redo your fenders if you wanted that look you were talking about while camping

 

I don't have drawers but boxes that slide under the platform. I can easily remove the center section to haul wood. I originally designed it all to be easily removed though for when I needed the bed.

I need to redesign it as the years haven't been to kind to it but I think it'll remain similar. Still had the side pockets in the bed in this pic.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZfCo3OFJtZ/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1cstp5vmgihui

 

Yep thats the kit, you can always replace the lower two with normal hex bolt heads vs the allens. However 3yrs with the front and rear done, I have not managed to mangle any of the allen heads. They sit a good ways out of the rocks and the 3rd member bracing casts help keep the rocks out of them. Probably also helps both pinions are rotated significanlty up from stock. There will be a small amount of old diff fluid left, but not enough to worry about.
I did add additional magnets due to losing the drain plug one. I have a total of three on each axle. Two on each lower side of the diff similar to stock and one up top where the fill plug is. Much stronger magnets from Lowes/Home depot iirc 50lb rated? Haha

The soft topper makes it a challenge especially since I think you have the 60" as well right? I have mine mounted on the inner bed side opposite of the spare tire. Uses some old tonneau cover mounts I use to have along with some small drop mounts with bolts and two T handles with threads to tighten the hi-lift to the bolts. Also helps since the body of the jack is actually resting on the wheel well taking the bulk of the weight instead of relying just on the mounts. Gives some reassurance when coming down off a obstacle and knowing the jack that isn't light, is not going anywhere. Can easily get to it and does not effect the normal bed cargo area since its off to the side above the wheel well.

 

I did this when I swapped in my elocker axle - and welded the drain plug shut. I bought button head screws from McMaster. It was cheaper than the kit and I have a bunch of extra.

I haven't thought twice about it since I installed it. Nice peace of mind - especially since another guy in the club lost a drain plug this fall and found out at home in his driveway!

 

Wow... putting her to work... awesome

 

“Unraisin your truck”

 

Four banger for the win

 

Looks like airbags FTW - no squat there