Cynicalriders "J0hnny5 is ALIVE!" 01 build thread.

I would think the CO is at its fully extended state ATM, no?

 

That is interesting...

 

Yes I would assume that is the case, but preload affects that too no? Even without the weight of the truck? I’m still trying to wrap my head around it all.

 

Pretty sure an uninstalled coilover should be at its max extended length. Preload shouldn’t matter until it’s under the weight of the truck.

 

This^^^

 

Usually that would be the case.

I wonder if there's any differences with the top out protection though. If that internal spring is strong enough to help with top outs, I wonder if prevents full extension unless you get a fast top out.

 

I was wondering that as well.

I’ll bet you’re exactly right, tho. If it’s stiff enough to help cushion a hard top out from a quickly unloading 700#/in spring then it could definitely be stiff enough to prevent ‘full’ static extension, I would think. I would just consider that to be the same ‘usable’ extension that you would get as if you strapped it a 1/4” or so from true full droop in a CO without the top out spring

 

Good to know

Yes it is this exactly. I am losing 1/4" of shock travel or 1/2" at the wheel according to Tyler.

 

Got some time in the garage to try to get this pile ready for a snowboarding/camping trip in VT in March. What I thought was the fan clutch bracket was actually my AC idler pulley. Had no idea that fucker was going bad, but glad I caught it in time. At least now I will have the bracket and fan clutch when either one does go bad.

After that I continued exploring what I thought was a bad wheel bearing. I was convinced my wheel spacer cv swap idea had caused the bearing to prematurely go bad. But after taking a second look at what the dust cover actually hides, there is NO WAY it could damage the bearing. All that is there is the pressed in part of the hub. No place for water or sand to go even if it did get past the dust cover. For that reason, I am continuing this experiment.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Also all my tests showed the wheel bearing seems fine. The CV nut was still torqued properly, I pulled the caliper and rotor off to spin the bearing to confirm there was no grindy feel, and all I felt/saw/heard was a cv spinning in the diff. I did remove some large pieces of wood that found their way under the rotor though.

After that I figured I already have half this side taken apart, so time to install a shock. Everything lined up just fine. The hose felt just a hair short and wouldn't let me get the can as tight to the frame as I wanted to, but it should still be out of the way like I wanted it to. So I cut up my ruff stuff mounts and burned them on.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

One side down, one to go. I also have to replace an 02 sensor to get rid of the P1135 code I have right now too.

 

No rubbing on the resi??

 

I won't know till I take it offroad, or really get to turn lock to lock. But I hope not. I did several tests to determine this is the safest place to put the resi, and got a custom hose setup based on these tests.

 

I would toss a cotter pin on that CV spindle. That $.05 worth of metal could save you from from going end over end down the highway if the nut backs off.

 

it’s got the full cage thing over the axle nut and cotter lol that was just when I was inspecting it.



Looks lika dis.

 

He uses wheel spacers. According to tacomaworld logic he’s still gonna end up flipping end over end on the highway. Don’t even get me started on his lack of a swaybar

 

All he needs is to do a leaf spring SAS in his garage with a flux core or stick welder and busses of nuns everywhere will be extinct as we know it!!

 

So passenger definitely rubs, so I am taking my time with the drivers side. I should have it tacked and tested tonight. Lesson learned, don't wait 2.5 months for custom shocks so they don't rub, only to rush install and make them rub.

I'm already dead, I'm just a ghost of a man now.

 

Welded up and installed drivers side and took my time so I got it in a position that does not rub at all unlike passenger side.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

If the hose was maybe a half in shorter I could have mounted it closer to the coilover itself. I didn't want it hanging below the frame and potentially get hit by the LCA.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Replaced the upstream 02 sensor, this got rid of my P1135 code the truck was throwing. I was able to weld a nut to the original nut to remove that one. But the other one I ended up unscrewing the whole stud, so I replaced it with a bolt.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Eventually I will replace this exhaust so this will do for now.

The plug was accessed from inside the cab, thankfully I guess when we did the clutch we never bolted the one bracket back up, and it made easier to get to that wire.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

From there I started prepping the truck for an upcoming snowboard/camp trip to VT. Put my new to me's trasharoo from @HolyHandGrenade on and cleaned/organized my gear.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Celebrated being almost prepped with a beer.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

Awesome progress, dude!

I’m super interested in how those resis do down the road. I’m contemplating swapping out to resis and clickers (way) down the road and I like the accessibility of that location.