Dayton RS225-4 Fitment

Got a wild hair to try an 8" up front for the first time ever and having prior experience with Dayton Reference series made this a no-brainer until I stumbled upon one issue, fitment. I've searched & searched with little to confusing info so I'm resorting to inquiry. In an 05 A/C I already have some great dvc 6.5" with the necessary baffles. What is it going to take to get the RS225-4 to fit without modding the door panels? I don't mind trimming a few of the support ribs on the door panel if needed, but heating & forming is out. If that's the only way, then the 6.5" will stay.

 

may want to hit up this thread https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sound-upgrade-help-build-log.401367/page-2#post-11796962

he fitted the RS180. it's about 6mm smaller driver depth.

 

Saw that, but there's more to it than just depth. It's the circumference of the driver and the possible protrusion into the door panel where it slopes down for a 6x9". I saw one install on diyma where a guy used a RS225-4, but he had heated & formed his panels. Can't take his install as the "gospel" though since he was using a baffle meant for a deeper driver. The other driver still wouldn't fit so he threw the Daytons in. With that, I'm not sure if he could have went with a less thicker baffle on the Daytons and not had to form the panels.

 

My RS180 fit with no problem although I still had to trim the oval on the backside of the door panel,but the RS225 is much bigger. The RS180 is similar in size to most 6.5" mid basses. Just a thought, if you had a two piece baffle. First part fit to the "6x9" opening and a second ring to mount the rs 225 to sandwiched together. On the second ring if you could some how put an angle on the ring it might help it fit. The door panel starts to shrink in depth the closer you get to the bottom corner by the speaker. Also if you could off set the speaker in the opening and not put it in the center of your baffle.

 

Hmmmm.... kind of what I figured. Unfortunately, that's not going to work for me. I fabbed up stuff to run certain drivers in the doors of my last vehicle and I refuse to do that again. Guess they will be sent back for a refund and stick with what I originally planned.

Thanks for the info...

 

I've abandoned the idea and sent both sets of drivers back for a refund. I'm being fairly stringent this round. Absolutely no door panel modifications. I want to keep a stock look as much as possible. With that o have decided to go with some 6x9 mids as it seems to be the simplest solution.

 

regardless of what you do it will be slightly custom. the hole isn't a normal 6x9 cutout. depending on depth you may need to trim the inner flange around the grille.

at least replace the "tweeters" with something worthwhile. the RS75 is decent for me, though i am much more pleased adding actual tweeters to the sail panels. the Faital 3.5" is reported to fit are various 3" 2 way speakers.

i only recommend this because just swapping the lower door drivers will really cement the image to the floor. if that works for you, then go for it

 

None of the stock stuff is in there. My setup is full blown lol... 80prs, helix dsp, tm65 mids, kaxbltwt tweets, swapping between subs in the closet. So I guess you could say I've been fiddling around

 

I looked into TM65's, the last lot sold, and the owner stated he might not make them anymore..

 

Meh... they're okay drivers but there's plenty of alternatives. For one, in my install they drop off sharply below 100hz despite having a high xmax. The nature of a low qts driver though it's upper bass is quite strong in the 100-300hz range. Upper midrange breakup is still exhibited when reaching for the dial so it's quite futile to try and extract more from them. They're good, but not what I would consider ideal without a small midrange. Biggest reason I'm considering a set of 6x9" and might as well step up in cone area if need to use a small mid. I just have to finish up installing some gear in a friend's vehicle before I attack the issue.

 

Interesting.

I'm going to post up a build real soon. I'm in search of a door driver for 90 thru 300 Hz band ; Higher QTS (works well in IB configuration in doors), and high sensitivity for lower power RMS power requirements (if possible). Its going to be supporting a 2way.

Looking at some with large voice coils; some designs show high db's / flat db's in the 100 - 300 Hz range...

 

A higher Qts will allow you to play closer to the driver's fs without issue, but that also depends upon the amount of output you're trying to extract. With a set limitation you're proposing 90-300hz, the TM65 will fit that bill without issue. It's beyond that range that may present trouble. Again though.... that was in my install which consists of the usual .75" baffle, cld tile treated inner/outer door skins, neoprene & mlv layers, and some acoustical tiles behind the midwoofers (which probably only helps in the upper range). In general, a low qts driver will starr to roll off much higher, usually in the 100hz range, but will tend to be strong in the upper midbass/ lower midrange area.

I'm looking to, or at least be able to, extend down to 60-80hz so I can get more flexibility in my sub to midwoofer xover range since I'm in an access cab and the sub is right behind the center console. Will help it to "disappear".

 

60 to 80 Hz --> https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-837-tang-band-w69-1042j-specifications-45667.pdf

 

I think I've modeled them in the past. Can't remember the theoretic response of the tangband, but got my eyes on some cdt that look to be ideal. Price isn't too bad either.