DC Sealed Sub Box Bracing Advice

Bottom line up front--how do I brace that weak section at the top of the picture (assuming my picture posted correctly)? The box is 3/4" mdf. It can be from 30" to 48" long (not shown). I say "can be", because the total vol of the box needs to be .7 cu ft (just using 1ea rockford fosgate 10"), and I can't decide the length until I know how much bracing to use. Each square represents 1". Only constraint to mention is the long 19.5" side has to hold the 10" subwoofer, and needs 5", from front to back, total (3" for the spk itself, 2" for air behind the spk). This is not a huge deal, since the speaker only fills 9.5" of the min 30" horizontal length, so we still have at least 20" of empty space to work with. (Part of this description might seem unnecessary for audio pros; please excuse me, as I also sent it to an old Air Force buddy of mine who is a mechanical engineer, but not so much into music).

Before someone suggests I just go out and buy an enclosure, I ask that you please refrain, as I have already purchased the materials, and have determined to make a tutorial for all the dc 2nd gen owners out there. I'm a decent carpenter and familiar with the tools required, just not with the mechanics of speaker enclosures. Please advise, friends, at your earliest convenience. PS--I searched the threads in the section and around the internet in general for advice, but my problem is very specific to the Tacoma double cab, with that gap running across the back. Thanks, --Mike

 

Mike,

My opinion is that box is that the size seems to be inaccurate. Your bottom measurements is to much and top is too small. When I did mine for the 13tw5 I didn't care much for the back brace and did the box over it and still got me an amp rack on the side. The bottom width is too much and I think is' only 7 1/4 on the bottom and having an 8" bottom width will not fit. The top measurement is also too small. At 2 1/2 in you will have enough brace but a tight space. Why not just eliminate the top section from the back brace? Check on how I did my box for my 13tw5.

 

Kansay, thanks for the reply. I really like the way you used the space behind your DC and didn't let that brace across the back of the cab phaze you. I agree with you, cutting off that top portion and just going in front of the brace is a much better way, considering I don't need the space anyway. I love the idea of having room for the amp mount as well. I wonder if maybe a hybrid off your idea plus using the space under the brace would maximize that area for DC owners? I say that not for me, but since this was supposed to be a tutorial and some readers might need more volume in their boxes?

 

Kansay, quick question, i went back to my truck and pulled a few quick measurements... Did you happen to cut the child seat latches to get more clearance? I'm just not pulling the same numbers.

 

Your measurements should fit. Mind you, you will have to put the box in and then replace the seat backs. I will go pull mine if I have to. I can't find the notebook I wrote them in. I might have even been wider at the top. Yours look pretty similar to mine. I also deadened behind the box, which reduced my offset for the cross brace to only 3/4". I have .8 ft^3 with in a couple of cubic inches. I also ran a 13TW5. I did remove the child safety braces, the two on the driver side.

If you want, there is another option to give you another inch at the top. The lacthes that lock the seats back to the wall can be repositioned. You get almost an inch more space from the rear wall.

 

Yea, my child seat latches are gone. Didn't need those latches but I think you can build around it.

 

Got it, thanks guys. I think I have enough to go on. Have to go out of town for three weeks so unfortunately can't do any work until I get back. Will post pics to show progress.

 

Reviving an old thread....how'd this turn out and what are final numbers?

 

Well, I can give the numbers, but my box was a failure. It was 1.5" too tall, so wouldn't fit beneath the brace behind the seat. My error was putting the top and bottom boards on the outside instead of the inside (3/4 x 2 = 1.5), or, if you figure it another way, I could've cut the height by 1.5" and left them on the outside as they were. I scrapped the box, and have since moved, so have to start over. But I did keep the original measurements if you want them. I plan to restart this project once I get my garage set up with my tools, in the next week for sure. I already bought the new mdf.