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DCB Audio System change - Comments?

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by lbridges, Mar 23, 2011.

  1. Mar 23, 2011 at 4:54 PM
    #1
    lbridges

    lbridges [OP] Well-Known Member

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    First let me offer that a 2011 6 CD changer (non-JBL) works in conjunction with the Blu-Logic Bluetooth daisy chained with the Grom Audio USB-i-MP3 box.

    So, my plans are to use a David Navone LOC driving a Memphis Audio 30-Channel graphic equalizer, into an old school Xtant amp. In turn this drives a Pioneer Premier 720-PRS component set. Also planned is a TBD woofer set up.

    The thing I'm soliciting comments on is if the community thinks there is enough "meat" in the rear doors to mount an 8" woofer on each side. My truck is new enough I've just not had the time to pop a panel and check the metal work for sufficient rigidity.

    I have the woofers, a set of Dayton Audio RS-225s. Not great as a subwoofer substitute, but in my listening I don't need ALL that much bass. I know the two 8"s worked well in my previous car, a MR2 Spyder, but of course the Spyder has a much more enhanced transfer function compared to a DCB.

    I also have a DVC 10" sub in a closet, but I would like to avoid going behind the seat if possible - that, and I also want to try out stereo bass signals. Now before folks jump on me about source location below 100Hz, give this a read (scroll down to the "Two Subwoofers? Naturally" article): http://web.archive.org/web/20011004154957/www.sundial.net/~rogerr/truth.htm
     
  2. Mar 23, 2011 at 6:55 PM
    #2
    TorenApart

    TorenApart Well-Known Member

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    I doubt it. The sheet metal in these doors is not what I would call "meaty".
     
  3. Mar 23, 2011 at 6:58 PM
    #3
    mattg43

    mattg43 Well-Known Member

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    Localization is a much bigger problem due to rattles than acoustics. Doors are very poor substitutes for a proper enclosure, based on the rattles inherent to a "skin" on the panel, and the need for drainage, mounting clips/holes, etc. I would seriously reconsider that option. Also of note, as discussed in the article, phase is an issue. Stereo bass, in doors, pointed at each other, could lead to some serious phase cancellation issues. Never tried it, so dont know for sure. Also, as you state, while good midbass drivers, those are not subs. So you are really talking about running a 3 way with rear mounted midbass, but then trying to use a 6.5" driver for a mid, while having it mounted very low, very off axis, and with very limited ability to extend high enough to cross with a tweeter up top.

    The PRS set mids (I have them, never played with the tweets) are good for midbass, so spend extra special love and care on those front doors.

    I hate to push to much, by why mess with passive (if you are) and why the EQ? Seems like a "more gooder" option may be something like a Audison BitOne, or the soon to be released BitTen. (should be around 400 bones) Eq, time alignment, active controls, (only 5 channels, so you would lose the stereo bass, but my thoughts on that, for a car, are its a complete waste of time and effort)
     
  4. Mar 23, 2011 at 7:02 PM
    #4
    TacoDawgfan

    TacoDawgfan Hunker Down You Hairy Dawg!

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    I cant imagine having the depth needed to mount them in the door, much less getting a good sound from them.
     
  5. Mar 25, 2011 at 2:56 PM
    #5
    lbridges

    lbridges [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Mostly 'cause it's all stuff sitting in the closet. Plus I like having an external equalizer, especially with an OEM headunit. I do have a copy of TrueRTA as well as calibrated mics, so it's not as bad as it seems. Still thanks for the considered advice from all. The rear door mount idea was more about trying something a bit different.
     
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