DCLB Auto to Manual RC62F, VF2B transfer case and 3rd Gen E-Brake Swap

The saga continues...and I feel this info is important to list here for anyone taking this on in the future because I haven't found it listed anywhere else. Hopefully it'll help someone:

As it all turns out, I ended up tracking down another ECU from car-part, this time trying to use LKQ so I could go and check out the part in person before taking possession of it. After finding what I wanted at an LKQ affliliate in Texas and trying to get the part directly from them, they had me reach out to my local LKQ guy and new friend Kasey. He found the ECU from the wrecker in Texas without much fuss and cross checked the part number for me; the one ending in 80. While chatting, he mentioned a site called Flagship One that could flash ECU's with your VIN and set the immobilizer functions before shipping. I quickly checked to see if they had my part number in stock but they didn't so Kasey took my money and got the ball rolling on the used ECU.

In the meantime, my auto transmission sold which helps immensely offset the cost of this dog and pony show. Here it is palleted up and going to its new home; a Tacoma World member in Texas.


The Stage 2 clutch, 4x4 ECU, Tranny Cooler, and various interior parts sold, too, and definitely feels good to put some money back in the til.

A week or so later, Kasey let me know the ECU had arrived at LKQ's Portland will-call location and I went to pick it up. It looked decent enough with all pins intact, all plastic stops intact and no obvious damage to the body of the part. So I took delivery of it and quickly headed home to get it installed. Here's the auto tranny ECU on the left and the new to me manual tranny ECU on the right. It looks nearly as nice as my old one. So far, so good.



I used the VIN immobilizer technique seen here from @Dm93 :




With that completed, I registered the new ECU with credits for HP Tuners and sent the file to Justin at OTT for him to do his magic. He quickly sent me back several tune files with different throttle pedal maps (again overdelivering. Thank you always, @JustDSM. You are awesome!) I chose the medium map, flashed it without drama and the truck started right up.

I took it for a spin. No more flashing A/T Temp light, no more high idle speed (back to ~750 RPM once warm), no more shifting/power issues, plus Justin tuned out the rev hang and tuned up all my N/A power mods. The truck ran and shifted fantastic for the first time. I was stoked!

At that point, though, the only issue I had was that the Traction Control dash light was illuminated and the switch did nothing to turn it off. I scanned for codes through HP Tuners but nothing came up. I hit "clear codes" anyway but the light stayed on. I unplugged the battery for 10 minutes and then unplugged and reconnected each electrical connector on the ECU. The light stayed on.


If you don't know @Dm93, he's one of the electronics/electrical geniuses we all get to hang out with here on Tacoma World so I reached out to him again and he asked if there were any error codes, namely ABS/Trac codes. I don't think HP Tuners can scan for ABS error codes but the newer scan tool I have might. I haven't used it much because the interface is much more complicated than the other scan tools I have (like HP Tuners, my Scan Gauge or an oldy but goody Actron scanner that's my go-to) so I had some more homework to do to figure it out.

Long story longer, (and this is where I'm hoping this post will help someone in the future) is once I found the right menu to scan for ABS codes, what came up was this code, C1203:


Searching the web and here on Tacoma World, the first and most recent thread that came up on the C1203 code was an ECU for sale ad in the classified section by @anothernord. I knew from months of research on tranny swaps that anothernord had completed a manual tranny swap already so I reached out to him.

He quickly responded that he now knew that the ABS ECU/Pump Modules are specific to the main ECU and the way he was able to fix the C1203 error code on his truck, through some trial and error, was to just get the matching ABS module. Seems the easiest solution is to just pull the ABS module off the same donor truck you got the main ECU off of but I'm not finding that part available from that truck on car-part or LKQ's online site so now the real hunt begins. That said, if you're doing a manual tranny swap on a 2012+ truck, get the ABS module and the main ECU at the same time to retain ABS/Trac functionality and not have these issues. In a perfect world, it really would've been nice to have a 2nd gen manual donor truck, even if I got the RC62 transmission and VF2B transfer case from different sources.

Since it seems this part has already been sold off the donor truck (or at least doesn't appear to be available using my sources) finding the right part number to expand my search has started another chapter of research for me. More time, more money, more brake fluid everywhere and, as it turns out, there are a zillion different part numbers for this module. Which one would I need?

In going down this rabbit hole, I discovered that the 2012+ trucks have a long list of ABS modules to choose from. Year, drivetrain (A/T or M/T, 4x2 or 4x4, 1GR or 2TR), cab configuration (single, access, double cab), option package (Off-Road, Sport or Base) and if the model was equipped with a tow package or not all factor into which module you need. Here is a list of just the manual tranny part numbers I might need for a 2014:
44050-04094
44050-04104
44050-04113
44050-04182
44050-04192

Even by using the VIN search feature on various online parts sources, it still wasn't perfectly clear which one I would actually need. Each site still gave me several options with the VIN cued. So I did a VIN search on Toyota.com where all the important specs of the model are listed. From this, I discovered the donor truck I got the main ECU from was a 2014 base model 1GR-FE M/T 4x4 Access Cab w/tow package (Google search showed me pics that the truck had been rolled and was a total loss). Based off of that info, I scrolled through the list of part numbers on various part sites to cross check the compatibility and, all this info has me thinking I need:

44050-04182

Now the question is whether or not this is the time to get rid of the ABS system once and for all or if I should try to stay factory-fresh and do it right but add another $300-$800 to this swap for the price of a matching ABS module. What do y'all think?

 

Thank god I have a 2008. Sounds like you’re almost there though

 

Thanks for the shoutout, the good thing is since you have a non TRD OffRoad truck you have the standard ABS unit and should be able to swap just the ECU instead of the entire HCU.

Looking on Hollander Parts (another good site for finding used parts) you may be able to pick one up for $150-$200 shipped, just need to verify your part numbers.
https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-auto-parts/2014/toyota/tacoma/brakes/545-anti-lock-brake-part

 

I really appreciate the information, especially the link to Hollander. That site is fantastic. Thanks!

 

Torn, I'm a retain as much factory shit as you can type of dude when doing stuff like this but getting rid of one more computer system is very appealing.

Thanks for sharing this experience. I'm stoked the ECU worked out for you. I'm gonna assume that the ABS module is probably tied in same way for 3rd gens lol

 

The hard-core off road set seem to hate ABS and all the nannies. I swear ABS saved my bacon on black ice when I first moved up to the PNW on one very memorable occaision, though. But I'm still torn. My 1st gen had the ABS go out just after the warranty expired and I drove it that way for 15 years, finally removing the dash light so it wouldn't bug me anymore.

For the 3rd gens, my limited research shows all of the nannies seem much more advanced and thusly more complicated and harder to defeat. 2nd gens were easy to anytime locker mod. 3rd gens are not. 2nd gens were easy to spoof the ADD with a DPDT switch, 3rd gens are not. My guess is the ABS system is more advanced and likely much better but also more complicated. You'll be a pioneer when you figure it out, though!

 

My $0.02: I think you just answered your own question. If you plan to daily this new build at all, it would be pretty silly to risk totaling it for lack of an $800 module. Certainly understand funds may be tight this time of year, but long term I would add when you're able to for sure.

 

You're right again. This has become our road trip rig with all of my favorite critters on-board (wife, pups). Definitely worth doing right, especially when you put it in those terms.

The update this morning is that my man Kasey at LKQ tracked down the donor truck in Texas that I purchased the main ECU off of. Since there's so much variability here and even though I'm about 90% sure which version/part I need, I figured it was worth the phone call. LKQ doesn't often use factory part numbers for some reason, but with the donor truck tracked down and the ABS module still available, it made sense for me to grab the part off the same donor truck just to be sure. It's being shipped as I type this. I happen to like factory part numbers, though (hahaha!), so will confirm what it is once it arrives.

As I've said before, I hope the learning I've stumbled through here will help somebody know what they're up against ($$$) should they decide to take on this swap in the future. A skilled boat builder I worked with when I was just a young buck years ago told me, "Build your first boat for an enemy, your 2nd boat for a friend and your 3rd boat for yourself". Lots of things throughout the years, including manual tranny swaps, have resonated with this advice! But I'm pressing on and still generally pleased with my work.

Thanks again for following along!

 

Part of the challenge of finding the right ABS ECU/module is that wrecking yards sometimes don't list the part number for the whole assembly, rather they list either the ECU or pump components in the assembly. But the part number I provided to the OP was found mostly found by digging through ToyotaPartsDeal. The ABS ECU is not specific to auto vs manual, but they are different depending on whether the donor had the tow package, interestingly. But I do know that for my 2013, ECM 89661-04g80 pairs correctly with ABS module 44050-04181.

 

My truck and the donor truck both have the tow package, 4.0L, vacuum brake booster and 4x4 so I feel finding the right ABS module must go beyond those criteria since the donor truck ECM and my current ABS system are not happy together. I'm finding cab configuration (Reg, Access, Double) and/or transmission type must factor into which modules are paired with the manual truck ECU I'm using (89661-04G80) because, as far as I can tell, cab configuration and transmission type are the only applicable differences. I found some info on this differentiation on one parts site that I used to determine which part I would need but can't seem to find it now. I'll post once I do.

Also, it looks like 44050-04181 was replaced by 44050-04182 (the part number I saw I needed) which adds superseded parts complexity to the hunt. Fun! Lol!



I'll be interested to see what shows up from LKQ and will keep y'all posted.

 

Well, I'm thoroughly confused!

Update today is that the ABS module, allegedly from the donor truck I got the ECU from, showed up from the Texas LKQ yard today and doesn't have one single part number on it that jives with anything I've seen.



That said, it looks like it's in decent shape (compared to some of the stuff I've seen on eBay) and I reckon my plan will be to follow @anothernord 's advice again and not try to separate the ecu from the pump but just install it as is, plumb it, bleed it and see. If it doesn't solve the problem, at least I can return the module to LKQ. In ski coaching, we call this Huck 'n' Pray. In redneckin', we say, "Hold my beer."

 

That one *should* work for you. It will probably take longer to bleed and do the zero point/yaw calibration than actually installing the unit.

 

Thanks for posting, anothernord. Going to try to install tomorrow. I haven't checked the FSM but sounds from your description it should be pretty simple. Any special steps to bleeding the module or anything else I should be aware of? I already practiced removing the hacked connector of the junk yard module so should be good there.

 

Techstream pretty well guides you through the process of bleeding. At some point in the process, I think the procedure calls for some "2-person" brake bleeding, so be prepared to ask a helper to run the pedal.

 

It's been too long since I last updated.

Good news, though! The ABS module from the donor truck in Texas is working; as in, all CEL's and trouble codes have been eliminated and the ABS is working as it should. And just like working on parts from the SRS/airbag system, I didn't even need to clear the code when the ECU decided it liked talking to the ABS module. It went off on its own. Easy peezy. Except I still don't like how none of the part numbers I researched and came up with for this part matched the actual part that worked. If someone knows something more, PM me 'cause I'm still interested in figuring out how this works.

So, although this ECU/ABS system/trouble code dilemma seemed like I was just chucking parts at problems to fix them, the truck is now running great, functioning like OEM and the dash is no longer lit up like a Christmas tree. From this experience, I'll recommend anyone taking on an auto to manual swap in a 2nd gen truck get the ABS module from the same donor truck you're getting the manual ECU from. Depending on how you shop, it's another ~$500 in parts that you should add to your budget, too, although the old parts are worth something (even though I donated my old ECU to Justin at OTT for the help on getting my truck flashed right, so if you need a 2014 auto tranny ECU, hit up Justin).

And swapping the ABS module is simple enough... unless your wife doesn't feel like going into your cold, uninsulated, shop to help bleed brakes.

In other news, even though it's been cold and I haven't gotten much done other than tractor maintenance and daily skiing at the mountain these last couple of months, I was hoping to do one last post to wrap everything up with pics but I'm not 100% done yet. I'm still waiting on Will at Blue Dog Designs to finalize my center console cover and get everything back to me. It's been over 3 months now but at least I know that there's somebody else out there that's slower on projects than I am. Lol! At least he's keeping me updated on the regular and sent me these pics yesterday. He said he'll be printing the final version of the cover this week. When I get everything back from him, I'll add the custom Stronghold shift boots that came in months ago and will hope the interior looks as nice as the truck is running. Fingers crossed!

 

Daaaannngg! Thats lookin good.

 

Thanks! How's progress on your swap coming?

 

Slow. Trying to do as much pre-work/homework that I can. Still need to let my gf know my plans lol, she thinks I'm lookin at stereo wiring diagrams right now lol.

Thanks to those before you and your progress (it may or may not be the same for 3rd gens, I think thats yet to be seen) I learned the abs module part numbers are differentiated by bed size/wheel base, which I thought was curious. All 5ft beds have one and 6ft beds have their own regardless of model and/or transmission (not sure about SR/2wd stuff though, irrelevant anyway). Did you happen to notice anything like that for the 2nd gens? I have a running theory that it may be possible to make these work via techstream but im doubtful about that.

I started to feel the cost burden of the ecm side of this project. A new one running in the neighborhood of $800 plus an abs module plus any tuning device and tooling for that. I started to see $1500 possibly less but most likely more. So, naturally, I decided to explore stand alone units lol, what a fuggin rabbit hole that was and while it seems very doable via the one unit I found that would support all the inputs/outputs, 12 injectors and canbus/lin signals, it put into perspective just how powerful the stock ecm is. I shelfed that plan to keep the focus on the tranny but definitely be a future project for me.

To keep it more simple I'm gonna attempt the transfer case later on, the ADD complexities seemed really annoying and the only solution I liked was the fj diff tube. So I'm gonna back burner it for another time.

Ive been keeping an eye out for a potential donor truck to make all this easier but damn, they still really expensive and to make that cost worth while, im esstentailly trying to find a 2021 sport thats wrecked enough that nobody wants to fix it. Most of em seem to be in the 20k area and thats more than I'd spend on seperate parts.

So, progress is slow goin but theres certainly more considerations. Mechanically everything checks out fine, pretty much legos but the electronics side is....well, it is.

*riiip that was lengthery than i intended, mah bad*

 

Nah man, good to read it and...I did ask!! I'm definitely interested in seeing your results, especially in overcoming the increasingly complex electronics hurdles. I am a techno-dunce but enjoy following along.

I wish I had been like you, doing more thorough research prior to dropping the hammer. That said, my slow timeframe was conducive to learning along the way and there's very little I would have done differently other than to have all parts on-hand before starting, but that's something I always say in hindsight. I'm really, really stoked on the results. I went for a drive yesterday and my two thoughts were:

1). I feel so much more connected to the truck.

2). Just that connection to the powertrain takes it to the next level, so much closer to the truck I always wanted it to be.

Now, with those tall overdrive gears, time to consider a re-gear (especilly since I found someone unloading an Eaton Tru-Trac locally and snapped it up)... and then a whole lot of JD Fabrication suspension mods.

 

Well, early last week, Will said he had wrapped up the design of his 3D printed handiwork so I sent him a shipping label and twiddled my thumbs in earnest this time. On Thursday afternoon, a big box of plastic showed up from Maple Valley. In it was my center console and several different versions of the center console/shifter cover panel from this template.


Will's design even included the factory-style panel clips like the original cover plate.


Excitedly test fitting, the panel turned out to be significantly thicker than I originally thought, so there were some clearance issues from the 2WD-4WD shifter and I felt both of the twin sticks were too short now, as well. So I quickly tore down the shifters and re-welded them with some slight tweaks yesterday afternoon.

I'm still mocking up how the leather shifter/e-brake boots will affix to the cover itself, so am still tinkering a bit and haven't inserted the ADD switch. I'm not 100% home but in the grand scheme of things, I'd say I'm 99.5%. Although the shifter cockpit is a bit tight, everything works and looks to my liking. I'm pretty thrilled with the whole thing and fell back in love with the truck. I gotta say...It's pretty fantastic all around.


I likely won't post again with the final final with the shifter boots attached, so if this is my last post about it, thanks everyone for following along and thanks once again to Billdacat, Kasbien and all of the manual tranny swap gurus that helped along the way. I couldn't have done it without you! Cheers!