DDM Tuning HID

This is not completely true. The closer to true white the higher the light output. The 4500K is very close to true white and therefor will have the highest light output given the wattage. 3000k is a lower color temp and has no where near the light output of the 4500K. The key here is to adjust your headlights after installing the kit.

 

I made 2 L shaped brackets to hang them off existing bolts for AC line bracket on one side & off one of the fuse box mounting brackets on the other side in my car. They had the plastic clip-ins for each ballast.

 

after much debate, i think ima go with the retrofit projectors for my HIDs. can anyone point me in the right direction to get this started. i know i dont want the ones sold on ebay because they look kinda ricey, in my opinion. if i could use my stock housing and retrofit the projectors in those would be great. thanks.

 

this is the look i am trying to get:
http://hidillusionz.blogspot.com/2009/11/toyota-tacoma-fx35-cayenne-hid.html

is there anyway to have this setup using my stock headlight housing? thanks.

 

Interesting, might have to scoop up a pair at this price!

 

That looks like what I am doing

 

Installed my set tonight, but it started raining so I didn't get any pics. It looks like I'll need to adjust them tomorrow. Anyone able to get weather seals on with these?

 

Weather seals on with what? if you're talking about the Hi/lo kit then you need to separate the bulb from the shield part. mount the shield in the housing then install the rubber covers. then put the bulb in the shield and twist to lock it in place.

 

yea that's what i'm referring to. It didn't look like the bulb would go through the opening on the rubber cover, i'll try it again tomorrow.

 

It helps to take the time to take the headlights out.

 

I was wondering about this question as well. Anyone else get the wiring harness?

 

Wiring harness is included in the Hi'Lo Kits. but, not in the regular kits. they are made to plug directly and run off your factory wiring. So i suppose you could say they come with the harness to plug them into the factory wiring. but not an additional harness like the hi/lo to connect it to the battery with a relay.

 

Thanks for clearing things up!

 

I'm thinkin the reason the battery harness comes with hi/los is the same as the reason you should use it with the 55w single beam kits....the 55w startup voltage most likely is what melts wiring without the battery relay harness. IIRC, the hi's in the double kits = 55w, right? 35w lo only kits aren't as bad in that respect & the relay harness is mostly safeguard extra protection. That being said, I did opt for the relay battery harness on the 35w kit on my car due to somewhat known weak wiring...just in case

 

It comes with a harness because the relays and such are necessary to run the solenoids that switch between high and low beams. HIDs only draw excess current on initial spark where they draw a significant amount of current. But, the stock wiring can handle this spike in current quite well. its only about 300mS and doesn't even blow the fuse. The fuse will go before the wiring melts its specifically designed to do this. people who are experiencing melting wires are most likely doing something wrong or have a direct short happen where wiring can burn instant before the fuse blows. I have a HID flashlight design I've been working on for a few months sitting on my desk with plenty of scope shots to show what happens on start up.

 

How about adjusting your dam lights so you don’t blind everyone in front of you?

 

Yeah.....how do you aim/adjust headlights?

 

I just ordered a set to retro fit into my hella 500s!

 

Just to be on the safe side. If I buy the regular kit that's NOT Hi/Lo, I can still use my Hi beam and it'll just be the same thing as if I never bought HID, right? Then when I switch back to Low it'll be using the HID again, right?

 

Thank you much, sir. Why would they even sell just the low so you would have no HI?