dealer cant solve rough start problem

I'm gonna report my problem to dealer so that when Toyota gets enough complaints and comes out with a tsb then it'll be covered without my mileage being a concern. Also if you don go to dealer then Toyota won't know that many people are having the issue

 

Good idea....would it be worth calling Toyota first before going to dealer??

 

Not sure

 

My 2010 does the rough start/no start but only after I stall it in reverse... Usually takes 1-2 minutes to get it going. I don't know if this is related to your problem or not.

 

Taking my truck to the dealer tomorrow. My truck has gradually gotten better and now doesnt do it anymore. I also dont overfill my tank anymore. I remember eading somewhere that maybe overfilling tank causes fuel to go down through an emissions or fuel vapor line or something and maybe a switch sticks sometimes and causes the hesitant start up. Explains the randomness and all other random variables with no pattern. I giess we shall see.

 

Same problem just started on my 2013...sputter only happens when its cold outside and the truck sits overnight...I always turn the ignition to on wait 5 seconds or for it to stop beeping then turn it over...My 98 used to fire up first time evertime no problem for 4 yrs...I had this truck for a less than a month and it already has a squeaky front end...wiper motor is whining...and now cold start issues

 

When does it happen?

Hot restart?

Cold start?

Both?

 

Try this.... Turn the key to the on position but do not start the truck. Leave it there for 15-20 seconds and then move to the start position and allow the vehicle to start and see what happens. By turning on the vehicle but not starting it, the vehicle gets to "acclimate" itself to current temp, humidity, etc... Because all of the systems are activated and begin to perform self diagnoses. Give it a try, it cannot hurt and is free. We have done this at the Hyundai dealership I work at and have solved some starting problems.

 

My 2011 has done this to me twice... I thought it was kind of strange.

Question for The guys that ate having the issue on a regular basis, are your trucks autos or manuals?

 

Has any one at the dealer actually had a fuel pressure gauge on it yet? I bought mine in March "11" and it's cold here in Maine in March and it's in the teens now. I have never had any issues with a start up all though one very cold morning it did crank for 5 sec.

 

Just saw the thread again and thought I would post that my truck (2010) continues to do this, regardless of temperature outside or sitting time, it will crank for 5 sec with nothing! Then I turn again the key again and it fires right up. My truck has done this since day 1 and it is now almost 3 years old. Totally sporadic, I would say about it has done this about 12x over the 3 year period. Seems like fuel pressure as "maineah" stated is the place to start. I will take it next month before 3 year warranty ends and follow up this post to tell you what happens.

 

My 2012 has had hard start sporadically since it was new, sometimes cranking for 5 seconds or so before starting. This is its second winter and every morning now (whereas last winter it didn't) I have to hold the key for a couple extra seconds while it cranks and weakly starts. I'll take a video when I can and upload it to youtube.

 

Ok. I took a video, but of course like every hard start story it doesn't do it when you want it to. This video was taken in the morning after sitting overnight, -3C. It didn't "hard start" by any means but you can see me having to hold the key a bit longer in start to get it to catch. Listen carefully when I turn the key. I'll have to remember to take more videos hopefully at some point getting a real hard start on video. BTW, it has never been as bad as the original poster, worse case I've had is about 5 seconds of cranking on a wet day. The truck always starts. 2012 V6.

http://youtu.be/vJm5EpDWOcM

 

OP, I know where you're coming from with your reluctance to take it in to a dealer that doesn't offer a loaner. I have the no start issue on my 09 V6. My truck has been at the dealers for 5 now!! I don't have a loaner or a rental (they keep telling me they can't confirm it's a warranty issue and if it is and the allocated time for the job is only a 2-3 hours they can't allow a rental). Mine started having the issue early August when we had our first overnight freezing temps of the "season". Have had the issue ever since and gradually got worse.

None of the dealers I took it to (4 total and spoke to a reputed tech I know from a 6th one) ever heard of the problem so please, if anybody else has this issue take to a dealer so Corporate gets flooded with complaints and finally does something about it.

 

Weird. On occasion mine won't start immediately. Don't keep cranking if it doesn't start in the first few seconds. Let go, let the engine stop, and crank it again. It'll start the second time.

 

Weird. On occasion mine won't start immediately. Don't keep cranking if it doesn't start in the first few seconds.

Let go, let the engine stop, and crank it again. It'll start the second time.

 

Mine didn't.

 

"sputter only happens when its cold outside and the truck sits overnight"

 

I'm still having problems. I have 41k miles now. I wish I could figure it out cause it gets really f-in annoying. I know it's not the "adjusting to the current temp" thing because none of my other tacomas did it and this started after 20k miles and hasn't stopped which tells me something got a crack and bleeding slightly or a defective part. I really think it could be a defect in charcoal canister. Any thoughts?

 

A "defect in the charcoal canister" won't cause this. The way the evap system works is you have a canister, canister vent valve and vapor management valve. The canister vent valve is normally open, venting to atmosphere. THe vapor management valve is normally closed. When the VMV opens, manifold vacuum is pulled on the EVAP system drawing it into a vacuum. In order to achieve vacuum, the canister vent valve must be closed. This "evacuates" the evaporative emissions and pulls them into the intake manifold, via the VMV. Evap system WILL NOT cause this problem.
This is not a temperature or manifold pressure "learn" procedure. The guy who posted that initially and then created some ridiculous drive cycle as if he is clearing a temp monitor is a retard.