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Dealer drive line fluid change

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by RockyTacoma, Jul 22, 2010.

  1. Jul 22, 2010 at 6:59 AM
    #1
    RockyTacoma

    RockyTacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I WAS QUOTED $169 FOR 02 trd FRONT , REAR, AND TRANSFER CASE FLUID CHANGE FROM LOCAL TOYOTA DEALER. SOUND LIKE GOOD DEAL TO ME. WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK
     
  2. Jul 22, 2010 at 7:11 AM
    #2
    S-Runner '01

    S-Runner '01 Elderly Gentleman - Junior Member

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    I think you could do it yourself for less than $40 and it ain't a real tough job.
    jj
     
  3. Jul 22, 2010 at 7:12 AM
    #3
    Mush Mouse

    Mush Mouse Club Soda Not Seals

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    its a Toyota truck and that's all the modifications needed
    That seems about right from the dealer,the gaskets for the diffs need to be replaced also and only the dealer has these gaskets that I know of they are once used and replaced like a crush grommet unless you can buy them at an Auto parts store Ive never seen them I change the Oils myself and get the gaskets at the stealer. Id say yes that seems like a good price for the dealer,Jiffy Lube does this service too but they might use the old gaskets and maybe a leak could start knowing how they operate.
     
  4. Jul 22, 2010 at 7:14 AM
    #4
    Mush Mouse

    Mush Mouse Club Soda Not Seals

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    its a Toyota truck and that's all the modifications needed
    The toughest part is dropping the skid plate for the front diff youll need a 10mm Hex head to remove the front filler plug,and a 24mm socket for the rest not too hard.
     
  5. Jul 22, 2010 at 7:48 AM
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    Tacomadude89

    Tacomadude89 Well-Known Member

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    +1
     
  6. Jul 22, 2010 at 8:03 AM
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    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    Yeah man do it yourself save 120 bucks and jump under your truck.
     
  7. Jul 22, 2010 at 9:06 AM
    #7
    scocar

    scocar Scouting the perimeter for weakness

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    Back to square one after the 2001. So...
    x2

    I am guessing you have not done this before, so here's more detail to fire you up.

    It is a good job to do yourself because it familarizes you with your truck, and you can inspect a lot of other stuff while you are down there.

    It is one of the simplest jobs on the truck, as long as you know how to get the fill and drain plugs off. Sometimes they can be a little tricky (like, freaking stuck hard if they have not been off in a long time, or were overtorqued, or someone used the wrong crush washers before you), and you have to be careful, hit them with a wire brush first, then some PB blaster, then definitely use a breaker bar using a six point 24mm socket, and you may need a cheater pipe on that, too. This is usally an issue with the very exposed rear diff plugs. Entire threads have been dedicated to this issue alone...

    Make sure you get the correct crush washers. The front diff takes a large, thin copper one on the drain (I can't remember the fill, I think just a steel one like the r. diff 24mm), the transfer takes two aluminum ones, and the r. diff takes steel ones. Just get them from the dealer. Steel to steel, alum. to alum.

    Also get a cheap fluid pump that fits in the oil bottles. it is impossible to fill the front diff without one, and it just makes everything easier. So does a creeper.

    And always take of the fill plugs first. If you take of the drain plugs and empty it first, then can't get the fill plug off (or worse, strip it), you are, like, screwed.

    The skid plate is a little annoying because a little sheetmetal clip that is hard to see that holds the two plates together. Also, hooks help hold up the front of the front plate. Just loosen all seven bolts, then focus on getting the front plate off first.

    It is a good job to do yourself because it familarizes you with your truck, and you can inspect a lot of other stuff while you are down there.

    EDIT: And for the love of god, never take anything to Jiffy Lube for any reason.
     
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