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Decided to try CVJ half shafts.

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by JJ04TACO, May 27, 2014.

  1. May 27, 2014 at 9:00 AM
    #1
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My boots have failed and after seeing what is involved in boot replacement, I decided that it is not something I want to do myself. I will however replace a half shaft.

    I've seen references to this company doing the usual research before a repair, and they seem to be pretty good as they rebuild OEM axles only.

    At 90 bucks per side, plus they will use high angle boots during the rebuild for an additional 43 bucks, I decided to go that route. Not bad and it will save me tons of hassle.

    If anyone is curious about how this goes I'll take some pics of the axles and do some updating on how things go. Conversely, if anyone has experience with them let me know how it went. They are having to search for some cores to rebuild as they are out, and I can't send mine in because of obvious down time. So I have a few days to change my mind if there are any red flags.

    Thanks guys!

    Oh... http://www.cvjreman.com/index.php
     
  2. May 27, 2014 at 11:42 AM
    #2
    BVCOTaco

    BVCOTaco Well-Known Member

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    I think I am going to go this route as well. Sub'd
     
  3. May 27, 2014 at 12:36 PM
    #3
    ndcmack

    ndcmack Well-Known Member

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    Not enough
    I used them for my 2nd gen axles with silcone high angle boots and they've been great. I would recommend them.

    Just send in your current axles at your convenience after replacing. They don't care when they get the cores back because they have your $. I sent mine back about a month later and got the core credited back to me.
     
  4. May 27, 2014 at 12:38 PM
    #4
    95 taco

    95 taco Battle Born

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  5. May 28, 2014 at 1:55 PM
    #5
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Update:

    CVJ called me back today. Not even one full day after I called Tuesday, and was told it may take a few days to find some cores to rebuild. They had found and rebuilt the half shafts and were ready to ship them by 3:30 the next day?!. Just need a CC number please...

    NICE!

    So the breakdown is this..

    Total 453.90 total with shipping ($40+-). Core charge 75/shaft. So that's around 300 for both.

    I opted for the high angle inner boots at 40+- ea. So that's about 130/ side. Not bad folks.

    Quality rebuild, high angle boots installed, swippity swappity, BOOM! Done. Saved me a huge amount of time and mess trying to buy and replace boots. Not to mention the uncertainty of axles with 130k mi with busted boots. Cheap insurance and peace of mind.

    And all in time before me my wife and my new son spend a few days playing on the alpine loop! :D
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2014
  6. May 28, 2014 at 3:53 PM
    #6
    BulletToothTony

    BulletToothTony You’ll have that on these big jobs.

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    Good to hear. I'll remember them in the future
     
  7. May 28, 2014 at 7:29 PM
    #7
    Johnnycham

    Johnnycham Active Member

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    are these stronger than oem's? the boots last longer too?
     
  8. May 29, 2014 at 7:14 AM
    #8
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The high angle boots seem to have helped others. Given that they are for lifted trucks I'd imagine they will last longer. I've not seen them yet but maybe I can post a pic . I'll let you know. They weren't that much more than oem boots.
     
  9. May 29, 2014 at 7:19 AM
    #9
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like a great deal. Enjoy the Alpine Loop! I wanna go back . . .
     
  10. May 29, 2014 at 7:23 AM
    #10
    gtdad66

    gtdad66 Well-Known Member

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  11. Jun 1, 2014 at 10:25 PM
    #11
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alright, got the shafts in Thursday, they look good. Inner high angle boots are a silicone type boot. I'll try to post up pics when I figure out my login to photobucket. Also, I'm thinking of documenting the axle swap with video. It's a stretch as I have zero editing experience. And even less in movie production. But I may be able to get something useful. We'll see. At least I can get some photos.
     
  12. Jun 2, 2014 at 6:32 AM
    #12
    BVCOTaco

    BVCOTaco Well-Known Member

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    I just ordered a set of these last week as well. Hope to have them by the middle of the week.
    Looking forward to your write up.
     
  13. Jun 2, 2014 at 2:38 PM
    #13
    penguins_cc

    penguins_cc Well-Known Member

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    I ordered two of these for my 2nd gen. Installed one right away and the keeping the other as a spare. I'm no expert but it appears to be of high quality. Installation went without a hitch. Obviously similar to OEM since it is rebuilt. Sent my core and was credited right away. For me, they have been a great supplier to do business with.
     
  14. Jun 2, 2014 at 3:03 PM
    #14
    BVCOTaco

    BVCOTaco Well-Known Member

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    Just received my new CV axles this afternoon from the UPS man. Hope to get to the install this week.
     
  15. Jun 3, 2014 at 8:41 AM
    #15
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You both will beat me to the install. A one year old will keep things on his schedule.

    Since you both have or are going to install first, I'll still attempt a video but, if there are any spots along the install that you found a trick for let me know. There are other write ups that have some as well but any additional info would be nice.
     
  16. Jun 3, 2014 at 9:09 AM
    #16
    BVCOTaco

    BVCOTaco Well-Known Member

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    I just started a new thread on this, but do any of you know the socket size needed for the hub nut? I have read several write ups and some say 36MM and some say 35MM??? Heading to town to get some more supplies shortly and would like to know what size I need to get.
     
  17. Jun 3, 2014 at 9:26 AM
    #17
    StAndrew

    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    No, they are just rebuilt OEM (new boots and grease). If you get the high angle boot, it will last longer at higher angles than the OEM boots, yes.
    The issue Ive had with the CVJ's is their outer boot. They use an inferior boot than the OEM but if you ask, they will use an OEM outer for additional $$$. My outer failed after ~1 year and its out of warranty but I called and they said send it on in and they'll replace it for free.
    I thought it was 36mm and used that twice now but its actually 35mm. 36 will still work though which is probably where some of the confusion comes from.
     
  18. Jun 4, 2014 at 5:49 AM
    #18
    BVCOTaco

    BVCOTaco Well-Known Member

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    I changed out the passenger side CV axle last night. Didn't get both sides done because I also had to change a radiator, thermostat, etc in my girlfriends CRV prior to starting the work on my truck.

    Here are few things I learned:
    1. Make sure you have a good sharp tool for getting the hub dust cover off. I ended up denting mine in and have to try to find a new one today.
    2. I was unable to remove or install the new CV with the front shock/spring installed. The axle would not fit between the sway bar end links and shock/spring. I removed the shock/spring and then it was easier.
    3. Check your torque wrench. Mine only went to 150 ft/lbs, the specs call for 174 ft/lbs. I just torqued it to around 150 and then added a little extra.

    Other than that, it went pretty easy. The removing and installing was pretty simple.

    Good luck!
     
  19. Jun 4, 2014 at 6:36 AM
    #19
    StAndrew

    StAndrew Wait for it...

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    Intake, exhaust, lift. Typical stuff.
    You're pretty much going to dent the dust cover. Use a ball point hammer and block of wood to hammer it back in shape. It doesn't have to be perfect, just good enough to cover the edge. Ive seen someone not do a good job and took the dust cover off and it was wet behind it. Everything was rusting :eek:

    Yes, remove the coilover. Im not sure about the sway bar, dont have one. I usually take the four LBJ bolts off and just swing the entire hub assembly off for easy access to the axel.
     
  20. Jun 4, 2014 at 6:51 AM
    #20
    Trapperr

    Trapperr Well-Known Member

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    I'm either confused or am reading this wrong. You found it easier to remove the shock/spring assembly rather than the sway bar end link? Maybe my memory is foggy but if you jack up under the LCA, you should be able to pop that end link off once the nut is removed. Not flaming, just curious.
     

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