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I rode in a 4Runner with stage 6. After 5 miles I wanted to get the hell out.

 

Not a problem OP, it was not my finest moment, sad to say, and I hope we’re good now.
But with all the negativity expressed by some at me, I guess I maybe just a little testy and maybe in need now of a cold one to chill, happy hr, you here yet??

Also, every-time the subject of a rough ride comes up, it’s always blamed on the Hitachi shocks or the springs. So a look at the most basic and simple for answers have always been my best friend.

But I only recommend what’s tried and true because money doesn’t grow on trees and to still have the same problem after spending a ton of it, it’s enough to drive anyone to drink.

Also I’m not saying the recommendation in tire/wheel I use is the absolute best, only that I know will smooth the the ride.
When picking a wheel/tire I’m recommending a factory or comparable wheel and tire size that’s in line with the recommended factory guidelines because they’ve been tested.

Over the years, I’ve seen too many aftermarket fails that need spaces or adopters for fitment and I’ve seen many come loose. But its very hard to go wrong with the factory fit.
The main reason some of these fail is because they maybe made to fit multiple makes/models, or universal fit to put it better.
Everything else outside factory guidelines maybe subject to trial and error and unforeseen issues.

And for the record, I only air down in the trails when the going gets rough, I still ride smooth and get good 23-24 mpg at a few lbs below max as recommended on tire side wall.

Hope that helps.
Cheers!

 

Add sound deader to the inside. Something I want to get around to eventually.

 

Good question. Here is a car that looks like a truck that came from a van. Silky Smooth.

 

Agreed. Alignment is everything, particularly with a truck. Also, I maintain 34PSI on all tires and its super smooth OP. I have an older truck too (04) and it rides great. I am on Kings and that's a plus but the alignment IMO is everything. 4 wheel alignment. Weight in the bed helps too.

Ah! And Welcome in!!!

 

lolo!
But I heard the foot steps

 

Is that possible with these rear ends?

 

OP place 200lbs of sand bags in the bed.

 

I like those wheels! But I thought 265/65/17 was stock?

 

265/65/17 is not stock on SR5 16" are.

 

I think sports come with a 17"?

I'm sure some takeoffs could be had for cheap

 

Michelin MS2 Defenders

 

My 2013 SR5 has 265/65/r17 tires - does that R matter? maybe part of Texas Edition appearance package?

 

This is true, but a wider rim gives you more meat better performance on the road and I haven't experienced any penalties on light to medium off road trails and I'm staying out the hard stuff till I put a couple hundred thousand on it or the paint falls of since its my DD.

 

That's part of the TX Ed pkg, you got better tires than stock with it, the R stands for radial ply

 

^^They're supposed to, its their job to help^^

 

265 is the width of the tire in mm, 65 is the sidewall aspect ratio in percentage of tire width (65% of 265mm gives you the height of the sidewall), and R17 is the radius of the tire bead(edit: this determines the size wheel the tire can be mounted on. Ex, a r16 tire would not fit on a 17" wheel). At the bottom of the page there is a tire size calculator. Load range is what you want to pay attention to as it determines the ply of the tire. For a softer, more passenger car tire you want load range p at the minimum, but load range c would be better in my opinion. C is less susceptible to sidewall puncture on curbs and less likely to pick up a nail than p. I frequent construction sites so I need load range e which is much heavier. As far as softer tires I would say tall and skinny. I personally run 255/85r16, which is a little overkill for most daily drivers, but they perform great off road, and in the snow. Skinny tires have a little more "give" going over bumps. I always recommend my tire size... But I understand people don't always like the look of "pizza cutters".

Suspension is important as well, an some good information had already been posted. I personally run icons, and like previously stated they are digressive. Which means the faster they cycle, the smother they are. For you though I'd say kings would be the best you could put in if you're willing make your wallet substantially lighter... Although I've heard great things about old man emu. For a true suspension upgrade over stock, they beat out the competition of similarly priced shocks and springs. I typically have over 200lbs in the bed of my truck, because it's a work horse, and weight really does help. Also upper control arms to help with better alignment of you upgrade the suspension.

Load range p or c tire paired with old man emu complete suspension kit, upper control arms, and a little weight in the bed, like a camper, or sand bags.

Hope this helps.

If I got anything wrong, please, someone correct me.