Desertjunkie760's 2011 Not So Basic but Never a Bad Bitch Build Thread

Damn you went to town on the truck this weekend

 

So first off, I can re-gear 3rd members, the front clamshell type I dont mess with since the setup is not fun to dial set since you need to tear it back down to check. I honestly pulled one all the way apart and ended up putting it back together. I more than likely could have done it but wasn't feeling comfortable with the lash setup and pinion depth. I was probably just being overcautious however since it was a customer build and if I dont feel 100% confident, its a no go for me.

Jeesus, long winded! But that being said the best bet (as has been repeated like a parrot on Meth) is getting the ECGS 3rd and clamshell complete and swap them in a day, they will also install the lockers at the same time as well if you intend to do so, which is a very smart idea.

I have done at least 10 4x4 front and rear diff replacements from ECGS and they do absolutely amazing work, I have double checked their settings, because I am so particular with the setup and its always SPOT ON, I mean within .001 of perfect spec every time, and gear contact patters are dead on as well.

Hope that helps!!!

Lets see the installed pics of the cam tabs! Or did you install them yet? On the TC cam tabs I always add a thick single pass weld on the outside of the tabs as well as the backside (obviously), just helps add some extra reinforcement.

Lookin good dude!

 

Haha. No, not really. I added some old pictures that I forgot to put on my build to try to keep it up to date with decent info. The cam tabs and the spindle gussets were the first models I did actually.

I did do the overhead switch panel install this weekend though so that's new. Haven't done any wiring for it though.

 

From the understanding that providing quality work is the primary concern, I get the "I'm not 100% comfortable so I'm not going to do the job idea." Props to you for accepting your limits when needed. As for ECGS, they did my rear diff and had them throw in the locker at the same time. No issues with their work or customer service at all. Great group of people.

The issue is that I was hoping to get away with just throwing the gears in the front and leaving the job with minimal expense as it's for the 4x4 system and not my primary drive train. (Of course having the backlash done right and all but spare where I could.) it appears that I am far from being correct there and the logical thing is to order from ECGS. This entire not having a job think really throws a wrench at trying to recover and build a capable off road truck.

In the long run I would love a front locker but it might be a little overkill right now until I progress my driving skills. I just have a hard time spending $700 dollars for the gears and then having to tear into the setup later to add the locker.

As for the cam tabs, they have been on for over a year now and holding strong but the welds are far from pretty. The frame damage bent the LCA mount back on the passenger side and the body shop did what they could but it's not perfect. I was (and still am) too embarrassed to put the shitty looking welds on the forum. Haha.

 

So I did some running around today and Im planning on tearing my 2.5 coils apart tomorrow. I have all of the oil and seals needed for the build along with some 13" 650ibs springs courtesy of @goblue82.

Went to Fox and talked to one of the gentlemen there who gave me some good info. He also mentioned that the Fox coilers have an internal .4 shim that limits the travel of the shaft and I am able to remove the shim to extend the travel. I found this interesting and have some further investigation to do when I tear them apart. If this were true, I would only have to measure the bottom eyelet to the top plate in order to find my overall droop. If that number is less that the extended length of the shock, I should be okay will pulling a little more length out of the suspension.

Another source confirmed the same information, yet he stated that the .4 shim is the difference between an extended length and non extended length coil over? Ill keep you all updated when I tear them apart tomorrow. Anyone already have any experience with this?

Once the coils are re-assembled, the truck goes to Pro Comp MT2s in 285 (sitting in my back yard) and straight to the alignment shop! As many of you have discovered, a lot of the "lifetime" alignment shops are no longer working on "lifted" trucks. Do you all think that going and getting the "lifetime" plan with the 5100s is a bad idea if I move up to 2.5 coils a week later? Might be a way to get around the issue.

 

I recommend Clarence Brown alignment in Kearny Mesa. Quality shop.

About the shims I can't speak for Fox but I have Icons and taking that out is the difference between standard and extended travel which gives you a whooping additional inch of droop but you need uniball UCAs to achieve it

 

That extra inch of droop would have helped when you got high centered and your front tire was just scraping for traction.

 

I could think of a lot of things that would help, that would probably be the easiest fix to that issue though. Some extra droop in the rear would have done wonders as well.

 

Good Morning TW. This is the story of my life as of now.

 

A few more pics of the overhead switch panel mod I did last weekend. Still need to get things wired but at least it started. I found some wiring that @Nazupag524 had done for his switch panel and really like the way it came out. Definitely going to be doing something similar soon!

 

Also tore into some coil overs that I have had laying around with no time/energy to do anything with. I have been talking about going to 2.5" CO for AWHILE now, and that time is coming soon!







Now I am stuck trying to figure out the valving of these things for my truck. I bought them used, and I have minimal knowledge of tuning a shock as this is my first time doing a tear down. Anyone have experience with a good shim stack to start off a base with? The picture below shows the shims in the order they were removed. The top row is the rebound shims with the top shim on the left. The bottom row is obviously the compression stack but read it backwards from right to left. Something doesn't seem right.

 

So I ran some errands today and took the measurements of the shims in the coils I have apart. Looking for a good base to start off before re-assembly, or at least the knowledge to know what I have going in for furture tunning. The shocks were bought used and have definitely been re-valved before.

Rebound Stack:
Diam: Thick:
1.600" .012"
1.600" .012"
1.425" .012"
1.350" .008"
1.100" .015"
.950" .015"
.800" .015"

Not sure what to do with these numbers from here as they do not match the Fox Valving Chart? Some experience requested.

 

The compression stack is where things get a little interesting for me.

Compression
Diam: Thick:
1.800" .008"
.800" .010"
1.600" .008"
.800" .010"
1.425" .008"
1.600" .010"
1.425" .010"
1.350" .008"
1.100" .010"
.950" .010"
.800" .020"

So its some variant of a flutter shim stack but seems like they were trying to make the compression a lot more progressive? Im about to throw it back together and find a decently rough trail to test it on. I am very curious at this point. Is it typical to have the base of the stack be so small for a flutter?

 

What are you doing with your rig? Speed, climbing, Overlanding? Tire size, UCA's. If we're talking shim packs and utilization than more data is needed.

 

Overlanding more so than anything. I'm not trying to haul ass across the desert although it would be nice to have good stability in medium speed stuff and I don't plan on being a rock bouncer. Just want to get out and explorer the trails.

33" tires with TC UCAs.

 

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/t...tantly-how-of-tuning-your-pre-runners-shocks/

Good read to get you started.

 

to me it feels like an unusual valuing. Going to be street car plush probably and ok on dirt at slow speeds. Definitely won't be good for whoops. Call or email fox for base valving on your truck to see if that is much different than stock. Is that .024 2 shims put together?

 

I saw that article last night but never made it that far. After the first two reads I was done. I'll read it today for sure, thanks.

No, it's one shim.

 

It's a bit of a learning curve. Never seen a .024 shim. Must be aftermarket or recheck again. I'd try to find the base valving first. Worst case you are buying 4 stacks of new shims.

 

I'll double check. It could totally be a incorrect measurement but I'll confirm. I have a suggested stack from the guy at Fox but don't have the numbers in front of me. Might be best to start there.