Desperate! Need Passenger Knuckle Assembly. manual hub/non abs

Wish I was that cool to run Thornbirds.

What's keeping the cv end in right now is the washer that goes between the snap ring and brash bushing on the dial side. It usually stops at a certain pony on the cv due to raised edges on the shaft but due to the force it got pushed down and now is stuck on the other side of those edges and won't come undone easily. Figured I'd just cut that washer and the cv end will go out the back of the spindle as it usually does. I've tried pushing it through the front but it is caught on something and won't go through.

 

Ah. I get it. Sounds like you got it under control then.

 

Yeah just need to bust out the dremel and cut it off. If I can get a whole assembly for a decent price tomorrow I'll just go that route, but the guy mentioned $125 for one side before he realized I originally asked for manual hub spindles and hubs.

 

I just paid $100 a side for mine at a wrecker. Just knuckle with axle hubs and bearings in them. The manual hub lock body whatevers were another $50 a pop. CVs another $50 each

IMO, if the complete knuckle is in usable shape and bearing is good, seals good, brass bushings there and good, then $100-200 a side is a fair price, when you consider how much new costs. But if the bearing is bad or anything is bad or missing, it starts to not be worth it...cause doing the press work I've heard pretty much kills the bearing every time, and the new inner seal is $30-40 and the bearing is $80+....so if you gotta do all that crap anyway, forget about getting that used axle hub--that may or may not be good--and just buy the axle hub new for as low as $150 or so (I actually just snagged one for $130 shipped...) and then the bearing and seal and then you know you've got all new parts in there too.

My thoughts on it anyway...and the way I'm going now after I bought used stuff and ended up being screwed by missing that inner brass bushing.... :-/