detroit truetrac test

Ok ok
Poor choice of words. I didn’t feel it engage . From MY experience the tru trac would function perfectly as designed,if there was any and I mean ANY loss of traction it will seamlessly send traction were needed and that often in my experience was both wheels like a fully locked diff . Now I said engage because when you’re going 60mph straight down the road often up a incline just barely accelerating and the rear end washes out because there was a slight slip and now it’s “locked “ ( both rotating with Tourqe) and without that 1wheel just tracking and 1 rotating with tourqe a light in the rear pickup it tends to go into a less than desired direction. Now I was always able to recover it I’m just saying it’s something to be mindful of. Again there is no need to be “ locked” at anything over 20mph in my opinion. Other than that the tru trac is awesome and easy to install and a great option . I would just rather be able to have full control over traction as needed.

 

So what all do I need to get the Detroit True Trac? Like which extra pieces do I need to order, and which DTT do I need?
I have a 2008 open diff 4l 4wd.

 

Just call East Coast Gear Supply. They will know exactly what you need and always have good (if not the best) prices. Maybe ask for a tacomaworld member discount.... who knows it might save you a few bucks.

 

Thanks. Had just sent them an email with my request, just wanted to hear from you pros who'd already been through this.

 

Well, guess I ain't getting no truetrac.
+$1600 after shipping and installation, just not worth it to spin 2 tires instead of one.
Wish I could do this myself, just don't have the place and technical ability.

 

That’s a bummer.
It was a seamless perfect replacement for the pos aam 9.25 Grenada that dodge put in there rams . I would think the toy rear would be even easier since the pinion assembly comes off with housing and can be worked on the bench? Mine cost 6 bills from summit and like 5 bills for all new bearings and seals . Do your research you can do it.

 

I seriously doubt That price . The tru trac is probably 6 bills all by itself , parts and labor at least another 5 bills I bet.

 

Wow at a shop or a buddies?

 

Wow good price

 

Should def be able to get parts and labor for less than $1k

 

Sharing a couple quotes I got:
Local shop (Hesperia, CA) quoted $3300 which includes both axles, TrueTrac, new ring & pinion (I'm re-gearing), and all new seals and wheel bearings + labor. Drop it off, pick it up all done. The TT seems to run about $500 each axle.

East Coast Gear Supply quoted $2,660 for re-conditioned front & rear differentials with Eaton TrueTrac - I'm assuming the TT would be new, and would confirm before committing. Subtract the $400 core charge of each diff, and it's $1860.
The difference from the local quote is no labor, no wheel bearings or seals, and reconditioned not new ring & pinion.
Return shipping of cores (to get back $800) from the west coast to ECGS would be $45 - according to ECGS.

Hope this helps someone.

 

That’s how gear driven LSDs work. I loved the Truetrac I had and if I ever lifted a tire, just a bit of e-brake would be enough to get moving.

 

Seems like another expensive solution in search of a problem

 

Slightly different application, but the Truetrac in my Camaro can handle a beating

 

After reading many posts on this forum, 4x4wire, TTORA, and others, I found everyone has some good advice and a lot of it differs though. To me it seems the 4.10 ratio is what comes stock on 1st Gen Tacomas with 31" tires - I'm sure there's exceptions too.

I asked East Coast Gear Supply what they recommended, and this was the reply I got - thank you to Jon who took the time to explain.
I also then cross checked using several RPM calculators, and then noted my RPMs at specific speeds in 4th gear, and verified the RPM calculators I used were accurate. I believe the info below is good for my situation, and wanted to share in case it helps anyone else.
There are a lot of variables to choosing the correct gear ratio for your vehicle. Everyone is going to have a different opinion because everyone uses their vehicle in a slightly different way. That being said, I can give you an idea of what to expect based on the specs you've given me. (P225/75R15 with 3:91 gearing, open diff)
In many cases, we regear a vehicle to get the RPM on the highway at cruising speed to match what it would have been from the factory. Basically getting the everything back to stock (currently running 31x10.5x15). 4.10 doesn't quite get us there you would see an improvement in power from where you are, but it's not enough to get it close to where it was from the factory. 4.30 gets you back where it was stock which is around 2275 rpm at 70 mph, it also brings back your low torque. 4.56 would increase the rpm on the highway at 70 to approximately 2400 rpm. All of that being said, your driving style is going to determine the optimal ratio for your truck. If you hit the highway at 65 mph and you live in a flat are, 4.30 is probably going to maximize power vs efficiency. If you live in the mountains or you tow a light trailer a lot and like to do 70, I would recommend the 4.56 to help keep it in top gear. If you never go more that 60mph and you always have a trailer hooked to it then 4.88 may even be a good option. But at the end of the day it comes down to your own personal preference. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks,
Jon