DiamondBack Covers | Modifications

Can anyone confirm if Cali raised side Molle panels (full size with extensions) fit the Tacoma short bed with a diamondback? Also for the front molle panel is a Truck Bed Header Rail required for installation?

 

Cannot confirm first part. I have a long bed and only the rear half. I did have to move my clamp forward a bit, but still holds fine.
Front rail looks to NOT be required since pictures on site show without rail, or behind it.

 

Oh thanks for the tip; I might even get away without drilling the bin by using two rail t-nuts.

 

Anyone know of a vendor with discounted pricing or any discount codes for the DB site?? Pick up my Tacoma tomorrow, and don't want to waste anytime getting an SE cover for it, so if it's gotta be full price I guess I am paying! What does everyone say... cry now....

 

Service member discount if that applies to you. If not, hit their outlet store for discounted seconds.

Or second hand, do note that they warranty might not extend to you (only to the original owner) - so just be aware of that.

 

Jeepinmike---You can cruise the outlet section of Diamondback. Typically--Tacoma covers find there way there due to QC issues. As you stated ..buy once..cry once. Takes about 1 week to make--then shipping thru a freight company.
Warrenty covers Outlet products.
Really have the best CS around. If Diamondback made--they will warrenty it.

 

I wish I had the cad skills to build out this rack

 

Any has installed the Yakima overhaul rack on the front runner tracks? Have the front runner rack but could also use the yakima racks for occasionally hauling long kayaks.

 

https://offerup.com/item/detail/a37...Xz09LSy0qLdBLztf3cYmwKAh1D8spSQIAG+gd8R4AAAA=

For sale

 

Wow, that must have taken a lot of weight. I used to store a heavy tool box in mine and never felt like it was even close to the weight limit.

I did have some issues locking the top when the cross bin slipped forward, I'd have to pull it back in place, but haven't had that in a while so it must have settled into the right spot.

 

So I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with a HD and replacing the cleats with some L-Tracks...

 

You didn’t read BST rules.
You don’t meet the requirements to sell.
Please remove until you do.

See below:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/buy-sell-trade-rules-rev-2019.2577/

 

Added the diamondback bed light (not seen in photo)...I’m not super impressed..there’s not a lot of output for how much it cost and this is coming from a diamondback fan / supporter.

I also added a portable led light bar to the bed via magnetic adhesive. Big fan of this light. Crazy bright and 3 different settings + it’s magnetized. I’ll upload pictures tonight of the difference between the 2 lights
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-13-5-in-LED-Portable-Task-Light-WHQ30-44/304968662


EDIT: diamondback light vs Led Bar light.

 

Joe do you plan on drilling the crossbin again to mount to the rail with T-nuts? I looked at the photos you posted in Pg.92, and I think part of the reason why the welds gave out is due to the T-nuts pulling the crossbin rigid against the rails and slowly gave out due to creep from vehicle vibration during motion. Perhaps some lock spacers would work help alleviate the fatigue?

 

I'm a REALLY big fan of the "L" Track. I mounted mine on the angled edges of all four sides so they wouldn't interfere with the flat area on the top. two 24" tracks on each side, and two 12" tracks on each side on the front (behind the cab) and back (over the tailgate). With the wide variety of snap-in fittings, it only takes me a minute to have places to attack ratchet straps, bolt down mounts, etc.

I got the black anodized stainless steel hardware to attach the track to the cover from McMaster-Carr. I used a rubber seal, with RTV around the holes to keep it watertight.

 

That's pretty much what I'm wanting to do

 

Well prior to drilling I had the bin fall in as well because the lip isn't rigid enough to keep it up through travel etc.

I don't know if it was the cause but I plan to bolt the new one as well. And I've already added extra bracing with rivets

 

Gotcha. I might go this route then, and source the T-nuts from Amazon. Damn Fastenal in my area isn't open to the public !

 

Anyone use an alternate method to fill the gaps on the ends of the bulkhead cap on the front of the box?? I am not a fan of filling it with silicon. Thinking some appropriately sized foam would work well there too.

Looking forward to installing my smooth SE this weekend. Then onto a cheap/DIY solution for a rack, plan to go back through this thread for ideas. I had something light duty on my old truck's cover using universal cross bars with door frame hooks, was good enough for bike fork mounts, probably start with that. Looking to up that game a little.

 

There is a gap between the bulkhead and the side panel on a 2016 that is best filled with Diamondback's gasket sealer. You need an extra person to shine a flashlight while you are inside the bed to identify any gaps. 2nd person also pushes down on the cover while you tighten the locking bars. Also, on a 2016--there is a significant gap in the tailgate area on the bottom of the bed. Good luck with the install.