Did I damage something internally when replacing my ABS sensor?

Rebuilt my drum brakes and broke the driver's side rear ABS sensor. I ordered the new part and went to replace it. When I tried to pull the old one out, it broke flush with the surface. My only option was to drill it out. I installed the new sensor, cleared the code, then the ABS light came back on in less than a mile. Is it possible that I damaged something internally?

 

You could have damaged the magnetic strip on the bearing that the sensor reads, not have the sensor seated or plugged in all the way, or have a faulty sensor.
Will your scanner show you live data from the ABS module?

 

Whats the Code?

 

It was debris on the sensor. Popped it out, cleaned it off, cleared the code. Good to go for now, but my 4WD AND 4 LO lights are still blinking.

 

Check your limit switch voltages as outlined in the thread below and post your results.
4wd System Operation & Help Thread | Tacoma World

 

This all looks like great information, but to be perfectly honest, I have no idea where to even start. I'm a decent mechanic but i'm a terrible electrician. I have a multimeter, but I'm not sure how to even begin testing what this dude has laid out. I mean, I probably need this shit broken down to be barney style.

 

Did the lights start flashing ON THEIR OWN after replacing the sensor?
Or did you try out 4WD, and THEN they started flashing?

 

Yes

 

I replaced the actuator on the front diff and everything was working fine. I was driving in 4HI, then went to 2HI. The 4HI and 4LO lights started blinking. I replaced the transfer case actuator, and now only the 4HI light is blinking. Going from 2 to 4HI does nothing. No solenoid clicking or engaging or anything. I am at a complete loss as to what to do.

 

The link that Dm93 posted above is really the only good way to know what the problem is.
If you know how to read voltage meter you can figure it out. Basically the same thing as checking the battery. You’ll take reading from the plug-in behind the glove box.
All you need is a 10mm socket and a voltage meter.

If you can replace an actuator, you can check those voltages.

 

Don't make fun of me now, but where the fuck do I put the ground?

 

Essentially you want to check the voltage on each pin key on and everything plugged in (careful not to jam anything that's too big in there so you don't damage the terminals, a sewing needle or T-Pin is preferable if you don't have backprobes) I have listed in the chart with the switch in 2H and also in 4H (we don't need to check things in 4L just yet) and post your results. This will tell us what the 4wd ECU is seeing and give us a direction to which switch(s) are out of range and an idea of actuator positions so we have direction on where to go next.

Any known good ground such as a metal part under the dash that is attached to the body, it helps if you have an alligator clip or some other method of keeping your ground attached rather than having to hold it and your other probe.

 

On an exposed bolt under the dash.
There should be a metal bar you can see under the dash.
Use one of the bolts that bolts to it. The bar itself might have a coating on it, so it not “the best” thing to use. But a bolt, that is bolted to it should work fine.
I actually used the door hinge bolt, but I used an alligator clip like Dm3 said.

 

Ok so straight up ground to frame? That’s easy. I didn’t think it would be that easy. I’ll get to plugging away at this tomorrow or the next day and report my findings. Thank you.

 

Ok so I was able to bust out the multimeter and get some readings. Is my ECU screwed? I found a place that will take your old ECU and program a new one for $350. At this point, that's quite literally the only fix I can think of. Can anyone read these voltages and tell me anything about what is going on?

 

No. Your ECU is not screwed.
You have power and ground issues.
I’m currently working a tree job. But I’ll be home in a few hours. I’ll get back with you then. Me or @Dm93 will help you get this figured out tonight.

But it will be a few more hours before I can look it over and tell you where to start.

 

You have no idea how much I would appreciate that. Thank you.

 

I have a few min here so...
Highly doubt it's the 4wd ECU, not saying they can't fail but I've yet to see a bad one.

If you did the testing correctly I see we may have issues on the Transfer Case Actuator circuits as well as the ADD Actuator circuits, I think we need to start by unplugging the ADD and seeing if DL1, DL2, and ADD go to battery voltage. If they do there's a problem in the ADD, if they don't we have a short to ground in the wiring somewhere.

 

Thanks man.

OP, do as he said, and let us know what you find.

 

I'm gonna go do that right now.