Did I damage something internally when replacing my ABS sensor?

I'm sorry, I just realized how dumb I was being. It's 11.74V at the connector.

 

Ok so we have battery voltage on it at both ends correct?

 

No. It's always 2.3mV at the ECU and battery voltage at the connector.

 

You sure your on the right pin at the ECU?

This is the one you should be on.

 

….I thought that was B26. The worksheet calls it B2 which also happens to be green. Let me go look at that one.

 

I just realized that the dude made a typo when he made up the little sheet to record everything….

 

Alright, I measure the correct pin, it's 11.74V at the ECU also.

 

That was me, ugh srry about that

@TnShooter where were you at on that one

I'll get it corrected as soon as I eat.

Ok what is it with the ADD plugged in? Again I'm srry for all this I tried my best to check my work for typos but I guess that one slipped through.

 

If I didn’t catch it in almost 2 years. I would never had caught it.
Well, not until my 4WD system messed up.

 

I had it right in the original chart but I screwed up when I made the printout chart

 

If there’s anything I’ve learned from this whole thread.
OP is persistent and has a lot of patience and determination.

I can’t say the same about me.

 

Thanks TnShooter. I just want my damn 4WD to work. I live 2 miles above sea level in the mountains of Colorado and it's about to be snowing.

 

Hey man, it's still great work and has helped me be a bit organized with all this.

BTW, I tested the ADD at the ECU with it connected and it also read 11.74V

 

Almost everything in these beloved trucks are in an inconvenient spot. Just saying you're not alone in this thinking. Hang in there!

 

Ok the chart is fixed.

So the ADD is unlocked but it's either between positions or something is not right since DL1 and DL2 are at 0v
The Transfer Case Actuator also looks like it may be between positions based on TL1 and TL2 being 0v
I think pop the transfer case actuator cover off and rotate it as far counterclockwise as it will go and see if your contacts line up with the 2H position.

 

I was literally sitting here looking at the shift sequence chart to see if I could figure out “where” it’s stuck.

I have to keep telling myself
Open = 12v
Closes = 0v

 

I use the pictures with the contact positions marked to determine where the actuator may be based on the voltages.

 

So far, if I’m reading the shift sequence right.
We’re stuck between 2H and 4H on the transfer case.
TL2 is closed, but TL1 never opens.
4WD position never closes either.

OP, none of this matters as it doesn’t help “fill the issue.
But it gives us an idea where we are “stuck”.

 

Ok. I really dig the foresight though. I have to be up at 4:30 for work tomorrow, but I’ll be home around 4pm mountain time. Should I start messing around with the transfer case actuator? If so, what exactly do I need to try?

 

See my post above, I think the next step is to pop the cover off the Transfer Case Actuator.