Did I get a janky alignment?

First off, my suspension is 100% stock and have a little over 6k on the clock. About 4,000 miles ago I upgraded from my stock 265/65r17 Dunlop tires to some 270/65r17 Cooper ATWs. At the time, the tire shop offered a free alignment check so I took them up on it since it felt like I was getting some wandering to the right after the new tires were put on. They checked and said the alignment was off and $80 later it was "within spec." I drove it a few days and brought it back because I still felt it was pulling. They checked it again and said it was "within specs" and if I was still having an issue with it I'd have to "take it up with Toyota."

So, I've been driving it and trying to convince myself it only drifts right because of the crown of the road....but I have also noticed I get a lot of bump steer at really low speed. If I take my hands off the wheel as I come to a stop on an uneven road the steering wheel will turn to the right about a 1/4 turn all on its own. I've noticed this phenomenon quite a few times now.

This morning, I had some time to crawl around and check things out underneath and it was immediately apparent that the two tie-rods are not the same length. I measured and the passenger side tie-rod is exactly 1/4" longer (more threads exposed) than the driver's side.

Aren't the tie-rods supposed to be the same? Due to the holiday break, I have some time off this next week and can deal with this. Should I just head to the dealership and ask them to check my alignment?

 

Did you also notice that the passenger side Steering rack boot was longer as well? The rack is a little off center, so one side will have more threads showing than the other. But, if you weren't experiencing this problem with the steering before the tire shop did work on your truck, then they should be responsible for identifying the problem, not someone else. What you describe, coming to a stop and the wheel turning a certain way, could be a brake issue. Maybe a sticking caliper.

 

Mine is 1/16" difference side to side. Pass. side is shorter.

 

No. I didn't notice that, Makes sense. I thought I had read somewhere on here that the tie-rods should be the same length which led me to wonder.

The sticking caliper was 2nd on my list of culprits. The pulling always seems more evident when I first start to drive and at lower speeds.

Hmmm????? I think I'm getting an appointment to have them look. The tire shop just seemed sketchy to me. Not a place I had been before and they blew me off with the "take it up with Toyota" line after I asked them to look at it a 2nd time.

 

They should have provided you with a before and after alignment printout giving them to you before and after. Never allow anyone to align your vehicle on their word. If they cannot hand you a computer printout just go on down the road.
With only 4000 miles on it take it to the dealer. Being so new they may check it under warranty for free. The low speed steering wheel shake you spoke about is common due to oversize tires. The front suspension on the Tacomas is not heavy enough and that is one result.

 

I did get an alignment printout. This is what they gave me:


I'm going to investigate the sticking caliper. Any tricks to diagnose this? Tomorrow is Sunday so I can play with it on my own a bit.

 

It is new and under warranty. Take it to the dealer.

 

That should pull right due to the alignment if nothing is wrong with your braking. A .5 degree is about the max cross camber and caster. I know it says it is still in spec,"green", but that does not mean it will drive straight. If your truck is bone stock they can get your caster and camber on the right much closer to the left, which is ideal caster. I like 0 camber, that is a personal preference. .1-.2 degrees camber is acceptable.

 

Hmmm....

Well, it's under warranty. I'll let the Toyota guys figure it out. I think I can set up an appointment online. I shall report back.

 

They may good will it under warranty. But warranty Usually doesn't cover alignments etc. Alignment can be knocked off with a large pothole, don't be suprised if they charge you for it. I would, esp since you have replaced the tires and had someone else screwing around with it. Not Toyota's problem.

 

Nope. I expect to pay. I couldn't leave well enough alone and stick with the original tires. That's what happens when you hang around a place like this. Little TW fairies start dancing around in your head and convince you to screw around with stuff. If they let me off with a freebee, I'll be lucky...and grateful.

 

I have noticed these trucks are inherently sensitive when it comes to the alignment. Even the slightest touch of additional camber or caster difference on them and they will pull very quickly one way. As far as your toe goes, I have also noticed that when adjusting these trucks for toe, they are very particular when it comes to the adjustment. It's not just loosen adjust and tighten. The machine will detect the small movements as you tighten and will knock the toe out again, at least it will appear that way, but it's really fine after you are done adjusting it and the vehicle toe will be nice and straight if you initially adjusted it to the correct position.

Once they are adjusted correctly and within correct specs. they will hold an alignment quite well though, and for a very long time, even if you wheel it hard (ask me how I know). To touch on what another user said, your caster on one side is .5 of a degree different from the other and that will cause pulling very quickly. I had a similar problem even when the vehicle was new. I am wondering how well Toyota adjusts the alignments on these trucks from the factory. Or if they are doing it like Ford does these days and not even bothering in getting a perfect alignment from the start.

 

Caster won't make it pull camber will. The difference in the tie rod length is all about steering wheel centering. If you have a pull with new tires you might try swapping the wheels around and see what happens before you spend money on something you may not need.