Did I get my lift parts right?

I'm fully prepared for many opinions
I just bought a lift Monday which has:

Front
-Bilstiens 5100 3 inch adjustable pre-assembled
-diff drop kit
-Sway bar relocation bracket

Rear
-toytec long 2"AAL W/u-bolts
-OME carrier bearing (I think that's right) drop kit
-fox 2.0's.

Pretty sure I have all my bases covered. I know UCA's are a great upgrade. But I tapped the budget ceiling this past two months doing the LED conversion, swapping and to KO2's, and scooping up some weather techs.

Wish I had read more about 255/85/16's before I got the 265/75's I have now. But all in good time.

Any need for bump stops, brake lines, or other precautionary upgrades? Toytec and fat bobs both said I should be good. I've read the what you need to know about lifting third gens, but it's a ton to sift through.

Thanks in advance!

 

Mixing shocks is odd. It won't damage anything but it might produce a less than ideal ride, might be good though. I'd look into upgrading the front to the Fox 2.0 coilovers to match the back

 

What coils did you get?

 

Nice house.

Why the mix in shocks?

 

Fatbobsgarage.com makes frankinlifts from popular products to try and optimize certain needs of front vs rear. (Their words)

Talked to toytec as well and they thought it was a good idea for where i live (MS) to help compensate the normal rougher ride of a empty bed. The idea is they will help with washed out pot hole roads of Ms that would make my rear end jump like a frog.

I loved 5100s on my Wrangler and just don't have the coin for fox/king/Icon fronts so I figured what the hell, I'll give it a shot.

They have a 'Predator' lift identical to this set up, but with their AAL. I went with toytec since theirs had anti-friction pads blah blah.

http://4x4.fatbobsgarage.com/mobile...orce-suspension-package-2005-2017-p33238.aspx

 

I'm honestly not sure. They said a 600lb

 

The best lift is what is right for you. As far as the components go, it seems you have everything covered for a basic lift to achieve a similar to stock ride while increasing the ability to put on larger tires. I will say that as far as mixing brands of components, I don't see why it would really matter. I had ironman shocks/springs on the front and metal tech springs/icon shocks on the rear of my GX470 and it was exactly what I needed.

If you like the ride and the capability, then there is no reason to worry about mixing brands.

 

I have only done Frankin lifts. My jeep had Rk springs/ a different brand front track bar, another brands rear, and Synergy + AEV for geometry, the list goes on for mixing brands I had on that thing lol.
The only thing I didn't do was mix shocks. But I had the same weight front and rear essentially unlike the taco.
So I'm hoping I have just as positive results.

 

You don't need a diff drop or a carrier shim. You do need a needle bearing eliminator bushing from ECGS. That will take care of your CV angles/vibrations that will appear soon.

You might need a lean spacer for the front driver's side coil. 1/4 -1/2 inch.

Diff drops are junk, make things worse. Carrier shims usually aren't needed.

 

This is the first time I've heard that diff drops make things worse!! The dealership said that's what I needed, since I am experiencing the vibe after just a 2 inch front level.
I wish Toytec had mentioned that. I always ask if there are any other preventative parts i need for proper angles each time I called.

 

It's most likely your needle bearing vibrating

 

And the dealership lol. They know everything!!!

 

But of course the stealership knows! Lol. I am surprised the sales reps I talked to over the last month (from varies Tacoma lift accessory sites) never mentioned the needle bearing. I figured they would be more than happy to sell me another kit/ product! Lol

Got a link to what I need? Quick google search brought up mixed results.

 

return the diff drop, save the carrier drop just in case but you probably won't need it. Go to East Coast Gear Supply and order the eliminator kit for the needle bearing. Also order the seal kit and special redneck tool it comes with.

 

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html

 

Also, to test the vibration. Put the truck in 4WD, if the vibrations pretty much go away then its 99 percent always the needle bearing. Then take it out of 4WD into 2WD and it should vibrate again. That's the way to diagnose it.

 

Seems to me the different drops don't ease any CV strain. Essentially your pretty much just rotating the front differential slightly. This seemed to cause the front driveshaft to have a steeper angle and yet the CV Boots are still jamed together.

I'm sure I will get flamed but ANYTHING more then 23" hub to fender is going to cause premature wear on CV's and eat ball joints and will loose some usable suspension travel.

Now if u get aftermarket UCA 's then yea u can get away with 23+" up front. But trust me...in few years those CV boots are gonna start to show accelerated wear from anything over 23"

this is my experience with the 1st and 2nd Gen different drops and lifts. I have learned the hard way.

"eat CV axles and shit ball joints"

 

I heard of a guy after lifting did not have the vibe but cant keep his boots on. I never did hear the rest of this story.

 

Interesting. I'll try to do the 4wd test. It's just a low vib that is not constant, but rather 'Vibe , stop, Vibe, stop' in a consistent pattern at 35/38 mph.

 

The issue is the boot cover fins get jamed together and after a couple years at hwy speed the friction rips them apart. All the grease comes out and mud and water etc come in, the joint rust then snaps when u go hard wheeling

I miss the locking hubs from 1 gen. U could unlock the CV's and run much much longer before replacing them.