Didn't track order of valve lifters

I seriously doubt but I'll check tonight when I get home

 

however, when you're measuring clearances, it is the side and not the end of the lobe that goes against the lifter (because if it were the end, the clearance would be 0 as the cam would be pushing the lifter down) and I am pretty sure there was none such sketchiness on the sides

 

Should I use this together with the zinc you recommended or use only one of the two ?

 

You want no pressure on the lifter from the cam lobe and it at the maximum or largest gap. If you follow the procedure and put the camshaft/crankshaft at the correct position for that bank it should be all good unless the procedure says you have to turn it every so often for measuring each cylinder? I haven't read the procedure in detail for the 1GR I admit.

 

yes, that's how I was doing it exactly, following the instructions from the Haynes manual:

1. Set the 1st cylinder (right bank closest to front) to TDC, which is also when the timing chain alignment mark on the VVT drum is aligned with the mark on the cam bearing.
2. Measure a set of 8 specific valves (can't remember the exact ones)
3. Spin the crank 120 deg (2/3 of a turn). Rather than crapchute-ing an angle estimate, 2/3 of a turn is 12 timing chain links (because one full turn is 18, which is how many cogs are on the crankshaft sprocket)
4. Repeat #2 with another specific set of 8 valves.
5. Repeat 3. and 4. one more time

 

Sounds like it'd work to me. Haynes knows their stuff.

 

That is trash.

 

That's a defect in the moto I have the manufacturer had a bad batch of cams that weren't as hard as they were specced to be.

 

The only times I have seen damage like that is on a valve with the lash set way too tight.

 

Hey OP, how'd this work out for you? I'm in a similar situation...

 

@OP I know things happen in life, and if that's your situation I hope things are well for you now. But many people replied to you, to try and help you out. Why can't you can't you take just a few minutes to post a follow up, and let everyone know how your situation turned out? It shows appreciation to those that have shared their knowledge and experience, and it would help those in need of similar help. Thanks man, and hope all is well!

 

@foampile how did this work out for you?

 

He hasn’t been on in awhile.
But last I heard, he had the truck running and it was doing fine.

 

That is correct !

 

Late to the party here, but when I pull down a cylinder head like this, before the buckets come out, I clean the tops with brake cleaner and a rag and mark them all with a sharpie as to their positions....LE1 (Left exhaust 1), LE2, ect....and then set them someplace where they won't be disturbed.

If, on the rare occasion, I have to start all over again, I pop out all the shims (some are under bucket, some are over bucket) and measure them all...the old big ones (over bucket) I just write the thickness on the shim. The smaller ones, I write the thicknesses on a piece of paper and make little stacks.

Then pick the smallest one that you have the most of and put those in 6 buckets and install the cam and measure clearance....adjust from there using your other shims. Continue this process for each cam. Mark the buckets 1-6 (on a V6) as to where you put them on the first round because the buckets aren't all the same either....

 

@foampile thanks for responding and glad to hear it worked out!

@ibhsbz thanks for the tip. I'm doing a HG job so the heads are out. When I flipped them over, the cups fell out and I'm not fully confident I put them back in the same order. I barely know what I'm doing as you can tell. Will let you know how it goes.

 

Hey friends,

In a similar situation, adding I also lost one of the buckets.

A part from working it out like @foampile did above, working out missing piece measurement & buy new one creating the depth (machining down(?) Maybe) . . .

Would it work to buy new set buckets/shims AND cams? Allow that process of wearing to start again naturally?

Get that/read that intake/exhaust different depths/clearances are different -- but would new everything (cams & buckets/shims) work this out?

Attempting to get clear picture, if this simple thing would work

Wood

 

If buying new everything, you still need to measure and get the right thickness -- there are 35 thicknesses. There is no way to avoid the procedure of measuring and matching.

 

You don't want to buy all new buckets. At around $50 a piece it will get real expensive real fast. Dealers will not take returns on those parts so make sure you read the SM procedure on measuring.

 

Wow, this sounds like a real nightmare. Definitely beyond the scope of my expertise... but here's what I'd recommend to anyone in this situation:

Take your heads, and whatever parts you have (including cams, caps, lifter bucket things, and whatever else comprises the heads) to a competent machinist. Someone who works on heads. What you want is a "valve job."

I did this as part of a HG replacement job several years ago. The machinist knew his shit. He adjusted all 24 lifters perfectly. I *think* he measured the clearance to each lifter, then welded material onto each lifter, and machined them to the exact correct thickness. No, I didn't lose track of which was which. But I'm pretty sure I could have brought the lifters in a bag, jumbled and unlabeled, and he would have gotten the same perfect result. (Note: definitely best to keep track of which is which!)

The best part? The whole valve job is just a few hundred dollars. It's been a while, but I think it was less than $300. And this gets you much more than just perfectly-adjusted lifters -- he also thoroughly cleaned the heads, replaced the valve seals, and made sure the heads were perfectly flat. Most importantly: an expert did all the work! (Not this clueless idiot.)

I cannot recommend this strongly enough!


Edit: Here is the shop I used, if you are in SoCal, I recommend them 10/10!

https://vapengines.com/

One more edit: For the record, I supplied the new valve seals. Part of the "valve grind" parts kit I bought from Toyota for the HG job. But I got the heads back fully assembled and perfectly remachined. I installed them in that state, then pulled the cam caps to reinstall timing, without ever juggling lifter buckets!