Diesel tent heater install

Thanks guys for the ideas on the cap or breather. I will likely try one of those (I am still slowly collecting parts, no build yet).

 

With the buddy heaters you’re breathing in the exhaust fumes, you also get a lot of moisture created from the burning propane.

The diesel heaters keep the heated fresh air separate from the exhaust fumes and don’t add any moisture to the heated air.

 

I use one of these on my refrigerator, it keeps the voltage output at 13v, even if the battery dips lower than 12V (I have a two battery system on my truck). Maybe it will help with the heater.

DC DC 12V to 13.8V 25A Step-up Module,Boost Converter 9V-13V to 13.8V Voltage Regulator,Waterproof Power Adapt 345W 13.8V Volt Transformer Module (12V to 13.8V 25A)

$55 DC DC 12V to 13.8V 25A Step-up Module,Boost Converter 9V-13V to 13.8V Voltage Regulator,Waterproof Power Adapt 345W 13.8V Volt Transformer Module (12V to 13.8V 25A)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097GT1DZK

 

That cigarette lighter plug won’t work on a Tacoma unless you can leave the ignition accessory mode on all night. You should use a cable with clips to put it directly to your battery. Use a dryer vent hose for running hot air to your tent, that’s about it.

 

Early when this thread started, the concept of a diesel powered heater in the bed made me nervous. Is there no risk or concern for CO poisoning with something like this?

 

No risk at all, the forced heated air is separate from the combustion chamber, there is a separate exhaust pipe for the fuel being burned. This is a forced air heater versus one that burns propane directly to get heat with no exhaust vent.

Now of course, if you run the exhaust pipe into the tent or near the fresh air intake as well, that would be an issue.

 

I would imagine the only possible risk of CO2 would be if the combustion chamber had a crack in it. But then I imagine the diesel heater would run like crap too, alerting that somethin was amiss with it? I only muse about this because it is Chyna made.

 

Yeah, I thought about that too. That’s why we keep a CO monitor in the tent as well.

One could do an occasional pressure test on it by just sealing up both ends of the chamber. They sometimes need to be cleaned as well, as a lot of soot builds up in the chamber after time. I also think if there was a crack, the forced air would probably exit through the exhaust rather than the other way around because of the pressure differential- maybe?

 

My CVT trailer has a battery setup for constant power

 

These diesel heaters are really amazing and safe if installed correctly. I've used mine in single digit weather this last winter and it kept my camper at 60degrees through the night! That was on a low setting. Mine is tucked in the lost space between the bed of the truck and the fender. Full disclosure, I just opened an online shop to sell these brackets. THe heater has transformed my winter recreation so much I had to run with the idea. I'm hoping it opens doors for others!

 

Would like the link to the bracket!)

 

https://tiglifabrications.com
I just opened the website and the domain can take up to 72hrs to become functional, please be patient! If you have any questions please just PM me.
Nick

 

So the real question is, whats the difference between "type 1" and "type 2" on the heater mounts.

 

The difference is simply whether or not you have he factory 110v plug.

 

Very cool

 

Gotcha. Can it be fit to either side of the truck? I use my outlet and little storage box, but my big storage box on the driver side is not used at all

 

Either side will work! The opening dimensions and bolt pattern is the same.

 

Great looking design, I like the use of wasted space. But where does the diesel fuel tank for the heater mount?

 

Really where ever you want. A lot of people mount them outside because diesel fuel smells horrible. I mounted mine inside on the drivers side for easy filling. I also like to keep everything low profile.

 

How did you mount it? Sounds like a good idea. One idea that I did with one was to instal quick fuel connects like they have on outboard motor boat fuel cans- that way someone can just hook it on and leave the can on the ground. You don’t even have to prime the fuel line that way, as the connect seals shut on both the can and the hose tip when you pull it off. I’ll post a photo of it.