Diff. Locker conversion price ?

So would an axle swap work on a 1st gen?

Found this Trd being parted...
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/2625554540.html

 

yea if its not F***ed up lol and they are selling it.

You'd need the axle and some of the wiring. The more wiring the easier it'll be for you.

you also have to figure out if it has 4.10 or 4.30 gears and what your truck has

 

Oh you can make em lock


You need a switch and the black control box. Mount them up then wire them up like you would in doing the grey wire mod. You basically need power and a relay really.

 

Then you ain't wheeling hard enough lol

yes its worth it man.

 

only one person mentioned a mechanical locker. take like an hour to install and like 300 bucks.

 

More or less this. There's not even a comparison between an LSDiff and a locked one.

 

Just put a fawkin ARB in it and be done please. Why would you swap a smaller 8'' axle in? I just blew up my 8'' rear end, wish I had the bigger 8.4 because it might not have happened.

If your gonna swap in an axle, put a diamond with a hi9 in it

 

You payin'?

 

Both are going to be expensive Finding a whole axle assembly isnt going to be cheap. Pay a little more, go ARB and have a stronger rear end.

 

or weld it. haha. 30 minutes of your time, and a feel bucks in sticks

 

FYI you can find whole e-locker axle assemblies on the web for $400 to $600 (go check TTORA) with moderate mileage on them, which is much less expensive than the several thousand you're looking at for custom housing, gears, ARB, OBA system, plus wiring and your time.

Joben was/is looking at a straight swap, his limited slip rear for an e-locked rear.

Is a stronger rear end nice? Always. But it's rare people have thousands laying around for truck mods. That's why you don't see many swapped trucks out there. For some folks, depending on the opportunity and means, an e-locker conversion makes sense.

In the OP's case, ARB is probably his best call, because the cost difference isn't huge.

 

Im confused. ^^^ that is what i was originally recomending.

 

Yeah I think we got a bit mixed up.

I agree with you for the OP - get an ARB. However, just sayin' that's not the case for everyone. Also, DEFINITELY cheaper to swap to an e-locker and rebuild/regear the diff vs. going to a Diamond Hi9.


Hopefully that clears things a bit.

 

That clears it up, we got mixed up a bit. The Diamond hi9 was a joke, ARB is the way to go for the OP.

 

why is everyone so obsessed with the arb locker? whats wrong with a lock right, or a Detroit? By the looks of it he isnt going to be doing hardcore wheeling anyways, the only downfall is you have to drive a little more conservative on the road.

 

Selectable is the world, my friend.

Although if I had a tube buggy with axles front and rear, I'd probably just lunchbox both of them and go to town. IMO you need selectable lockers LESS on a dedicated trail rig...

 

This

Especially in the front end. I wont put anything but an ARB in the front end of my truck when i decide to purchase a locker. The selectability is everything. If I dont want to break a cv then ill just turn the locker off and not have to worry about it. That option as well as turning it off and being able to turn better is awesome.

 

A lunchbox in the front end is extremely dangerous in slick conditions as well, such as heavy rain, snow, ice.

Lunchies are also quite a bit harder on the drivetain in general because they slam into action mid-wheelspin. Can you imagine if your t-case was automatic? Well I don't want the same thing happening in my diffs.

 

What's a lunchbox?

 

Dont think I'd ask if I knew