Diff lockers and Cheetos

Ok honestly, no cheetos but only differential locker talk.
I have done some research on my own but I will just go ahead and flat out ask it.
I have an early 97, so its like a 95-97. It has manual locking front hubs.
Options for differential lockers? rear diff mostly, but front likely as well especially if I end up with different gear ratio.

Obviously the ARB diff lockers are nice but require a lot more than just the locker. Air tanks and pumps, etc.
What about swapping from a truck that came stock with rear diff locker? Tough to find same gear ratio, I'm sure but if I had the front and rear diff would I be closer to golden?

My first 4x4 so It's a learning curve...
Thanks for any help.

 

I'd keep your 8.4 and do the ARB.

 

Id do a lockrite in the rear and ARB front

 

This is a good option too. I run a Detroit in the rear and currently open in the front.

 

25k on my powertrax no-slip. Works flawlessly so far.

 

Sorry I assume 8.4 refers to stock front diff but what does that really mean?

 

That thread title is so misleading. It's like saying Netflix and chill WITHOUT THE CHILL.

 

8.4" is stock rear diff. Front is a 7.5" clamshell.

 

It got you to click on the thread didn't it? Dancing taco if it makes you feel any better.

 

Depending on how much you wheel it vs. DD it would be between a Detroit and an ARB for me. Detroit locker is pretty much king for off road IMO, the only down side is you can't turn it off. ARB's are unparalleled in utility and renowned for their strength as well but are a lot more expensive and require much more maintenance to be comparable to a Detroit.

 

It's basically a DD but I have spares(DD's) if something were to happen, wheeling happens once or twice a month(weekend warrior?) but unfortunately has to endure an hour or more drive just to do that.
Am I best leaving it the hell alone and just not being able to keep up when it comes to wheeling? It actually surprises me with what it will do already but you know I just wanted that little extra.

 

Same here.

Hell no. Put a locker in it if that's what you want, that's what everybody that has answered this thread has done.

A lunch box locker is inexpensive and they are reliable.
A Detroit is stronger, they both work the same.

An ARB gives you the option to turn it off like was already mentioned. You can also use the compressor to air up your tires.

 

Well I would never condone not heavily modifying a Tacoma but it's really just going to boil down to what's in your budget. A drop in third member with a Detroit and gears is going to run $1,000 and can be installed in a couple hours by yourself. I wouldn't say you're going to see huge gains from just a rear locker but as soon as you throw in a front locker in addition it's night and day.

It's an expensive hobby but the fact that you're here in the first place means you're into it so there's no turning back!

If you hound the classifieds for a few months a used one will probably show up.

 

A rear locker alone will make a huge difference in traction. If you're not re gearing I would put a rear locker in and run that. Then if you want more traction add a front locker. The front diff (7.5) can handle a locker but you have to be smart with it.

 

Someone say cheetos?

 

The 8.4 reference is an easy way to differentiate the diff you have from the one in the trucks that came with the elocker, sometimes referred to as an 8.0.

These two diffs are not interchangeable BTW. To have a TRD elocker in your truck you will have to swap the entire axle plus some wiring and switch for the cab.

 

Yup. Just look for the (nonelocker listing) the 8.4" is also listed as an 8" sometimes. Well they dont make any kind of locker for the elocker rear end so you cant really order the wrong one.

 

The only thing I'll add to the conversation is that if you drive in snow or icy conditions you may not want a Detroit locker because they can lock up at weird times in those conditions and make driving squirrly. Consistency and knowing what to expect is key in those conditions and an air locker is ideal for that as you can choose on or off.

 

For the rear i would lunch box lock it (spartan, lockrite etc). For the front i would leave it open and save up for a crawl box. If you did lock it i would go with a lunchbox locker up front as well since you have manual hubs. I used to have an elocker in mine, i loved it and it worked evrrytime i needed it and i beat the snot out of it. So if you fall into a cheap trd rear thats always an option.

 

I am looking at an Aussie front locker and doing an axle swap for an locker in the rear. The rears seem to be going for about $450-600 used, add cost to redo seals and bearings while you have it out.

There is a thread on here on how to modify a non elocker axle to accept an elocker.