Difference between rear diff. lock and ARB air style lock?

Hey,

So I have a 2013 V6 Taco Prerunner TRD Off-Road. It came with a rear locking differential switch. How is this type of diff. lock different from an air style diff. lock and which is better?

 

One is electronic, the other is air. As for which one is better, I vote on the ARB but I am biased since that is what I have.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyzyAVPTM8c

 

The ARB is the better unit.

I put dual ARB lockers in my 96 4Runner and that truck would go places that would amaze you.

ARB is very strong and it is very rare you hear of anyone breaking one.

The key feature I love about the ARB is the instant on and off of the locker. You turn on the compressor to build air pressure and once it shuts off, hit the locker switch and CLICK it is engaged. The CLICK it is off.

The Toyota eLocker is very nice as well. I have one on my 2010 4Runner. The key to using it is that you already have to have it on and engaged BEFORE you need it. It will engage when it feels like it and disengage the same way. It uses an electric motor to slide the locking collar and it is spring loaded so it may take a while for the splines to line up so it can engage. If you wait til you are stuck to switch it on, it may not engage.

If you do not have a locker and are going to install one, the ARB is the way to go.

If you already have the Toyota eLocker, just learn how to use it. I would not remove it to install an ARB. Whenever I switch in 4-low, I switch on the locker and the A-Trac and it all stays on until I switch out of 4-low. This way I don't break front axles and I never have to wait for the locker to engage.

G

 

How much does it cost for one to install fromt and rear?

 

Install is a couple hundred per diff. Basically install is nothing time wise. The time is in setting up the gears to get the right pattern and backlash. I think last time I changed a diff / locker and set up the gears I was quoted $3-600 depending on mechanic. Arb's are at the higher end due to running the air lines and making sure the lines clear the internals.

 

Okay well I was looking at only a rear diff, how much do you think it will run to buy and install. Or can I install myself? Or would it be easier to buy a whole 3rd member

 

Honestly start calling around. Anyone can quote prices but if no one in your area is willing to do it for that price it is pointless. My local guy (before I moved 4 hours away) was 1/2 the price of the guy across town on labor. Prices on parts can vary as well so just start calling around.

Sure buying a ready set up third member is easier and makes the job easy enough for anyone with decent mechanical skills but it isn't cheap. Your labor savings are offset by the additional parts and then some. Unless you are very mechanically inclined I wouldn't suggest you swap the diff and the associated gear set up yourself. It's not that it is so difficult but it is a precise thing. You can eat a lot of parts (money) by screwing it up. The last one I did was cheaper and faster to send out then to do it myself. Even though I trusted him I did check his work and pattern just to make sure.

If you still think you can do it yourself buy this book: https://www.ringpinion.com/technicalhelp/DiffBook.aspx