Different approach to a snorkel

For the year or more I had mine on I never had any problems with water. Went through several down pours and a whole rainy season. Still no issues

 

A page or so back someone used pvc and the stock tubing and "ice cream scoop". Anyone else tried this. What size is stock intake pipe and Also would styrene do ok since its thinner walled.

 

Then there is this

NEW Universal Car Washable And Durable Red 3 Inch Multi Flexible Adjustable Motor Turbo Cold Air Intake Inlet Pipe Hose Tube Kit (Red)

NEW Universal Car Washable And Durable Red 3" Multi Flexible Adjustable Motor Turbo Cold Air Intake Inlet Pipe Hose Tube Kit (Red)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BD4J72I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UcOTxbCPTKGW6

 

If you are referring to mine, the link to my write up is below with dimensions etc, noting mine in on a 4R, but I believe they are the same parts. Over 2 years installed with no water issues ever.

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27113

 

That's pretty cool too!

 

Read a review that said its flimsy when extended. I may use pvc at first but I did find and order this to ease one of the hole cutting diameter issue. I'm going 3" as I read I think on page 8 that the throttle body is 3". This part is plastic but it's only $6. I plan to glue some semi fine mesh to the back to prevent leaves and trash.

 

3" To 4" 90 Degree Elbow Turbo/Intercooler/Intake Piping Coupler Reducer Silicone Hose (Black & Red)

$16 Auto Dynasty 3"es To 4"es 90 Degree Elbow Turbo/Intercooler/Intake Piping Coupler Reducer Silicone Hose, (Black & Red)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GXJJEAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dIRTxbGGFYH5D
I used this. Worked nice and tight. 4 inch side to the filter side and 3 inch to the air dam side.

 

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/aluminum-pipes/

 

Does anyone who's done this mod know the height of the panel under the cowl where the relocated intake tube is coming through?

I'm thinking about doing this with a velocity stack adapter to hold the tube to the panel, the front end of the adapter has a 6" outside diameter, but it's made of nylon and I could trim it some if necessary. Just wondering if I'd need to trim it father than would be advisable to fit the cowl back down over it.

 

Never mind about that, I found an inlet horn that's 4.5 inch outer diameter which will definitely fit if there's room for a 4" tube plus adapter ring in there. Also going with a 3" silicone tube to give the run a little flexibility for mounting and avoiding the brake lines.

The 3" is a minor restriction over the 4" but considering how small the hole on the "ice cream scoop" is, it'll still be an improvement over stock. I am putting a prefilter "sock" over the intake horn under the cowl, but more because of the kinds/size of dirt and debris (full-length fir tree needles and a few 2" leaves as well as maybe a quarter cup of sand) that have come out with the cabin air filter meaning they can easily get under the cowl somehow; since those are "hydrophobic" fabric, it'll also ensure that no water gets in (and it's only about $14 for that extra protection).

This'll be a little spendier than Shane's version (about $100 for all the parts including the prefilter on Amazon), but still a lot cheaper than a "real" snorkel and should give me as good or better dust protection and might even help the motor breathe a little better in the process (that'd be gravy though, not expecting any noticeable gains).

 

Keep in mind that you may need to add a divider between the engine intake and the cabin intake to prevent negative flow in the ventilation system. A filter may not allow room for this. My thought when I do mine is just to pull a pantyhose or 2 over the end of the pipe and clamp them on for pre filtering.

 

I'm not putting a filter up in the cowl, just a soft "prefilter" cover that's designed to protect cone filters on CAI/Induction systems or smaller vehicles from bigger particles and prevent water ingestion where the filter is too exposed; the one I ordered says it's for a Polaris ATV.

I'll probably fabricate some kind of "spring" coil (probably just bending up a wire hanger around some container of appropriate size) to tent the prefilter up a bit around the intake horn, but leaving clearance for the divider; I can play the height of this part by ear since I'm making it myself. I've got a galvanized roof shingle (about a 8"x8" square of 26ga sheet metal) that should be suitable for fabricating a divider that I can rivet in place once I get the compartment opened. Might also put some kind of screen (happen to have some 1/4" steel mesh sitting around form an old custom grille project on another car that stalled out about 10 years ago) over the cabin intake to keep the bigger chunks out of the cabin filter while I'm in there as well.

FWIW, here's the prefilter I ordered, there's a bunch of different versions which would all seem to work similarly.

$17 FILTERWEARS Black Water Repellent Pre-Filter K239K Fits K&N Air Filter PL-1004 POLARIS TRAIL BLAZER 250, POLARIS RANGER RZR 170

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC63RJ8

 

Got all the parts in the mail today. Should have got a different "sock" since the one I bought is for a drum/cone filter with a solid front so it's open on both ends (looking again, I now see that's visible in the picture), but for my purpose sewing it shut on one side will be good enough. There's a whole line of those things available from multiple manufacturers on Amazon though so look around if you're going that way yourself.

I'll try to remember to get some pics up here when I get back to looking at the stuff in front of me.

 

My first question would be "what about flexing"? Engine moves relative to the firewall, since the engine and body/frame are separated by rubber motor mounts. I didn't see any flex coupling to give any slack at all...

 

This is why I went with this.
Plenty of flex and pretty cheap.

 

Post 63:

Post 87:

 

So at this point my rig has 81,000 miles on it. I can't really remember, but I think I did this mod with 15,000 on it.

I have had ZERO issues with water. Not even a hint of dampness anywhere.
I do tend to have an abundance of leaf litter in my filter housing. I don't know if this is more or the same as would be for stock.
I do notice that the filter does not filter evenly across its surface -- the dust tends to build up more near the center. I don't know if this is the same experience as stock.
Considering the wide variety of wheeling I do, I couldn't imagine trying to work with the stock location. I'd have killed my engine several times over!
I have not noticed any impact on fuel economy.
I have had ZERO issues with engine codes, mechanic refusals, runability, etc.
I still have the cabin air and engine air fight each other on fresh air mode......so I leave it on recirculation.
It does give it a nice preppy mean growl under WOT.

From every single perspective possible, I have noticed no negative difference between this and stock other than the cabin air volume under WOT. I have noticed only positive differences, in that I never give a thought to water crossings, dust inhalation, or anything else for which the stock location would give me pause.







I still haven't painted the bare sheetmetal where I cut the hole

 

Thanks for the follow up OP. Excellent write up

 

Here's the version of this mod that I just finished. A little more expensive than the OP, but still way cheaper than any after market setup. Most of the run is silicone hose, both for flex when running and to make the alignment of parts less sensitive. All in, about $100 in parts from Amazon:


The hose is 3" and the elbow transitions to 4" to fit the airbox. The prefilter sock is primarily for debris protection, but is also hydrophobic to give an extra bit of water protection which sounds like it's not really necessary but also doesn't hurt anything. The intake horn may or may not help with the intake, but it's effective at both mounting the sock and holding the upper end to the bulkhead. As installed:

Turned out that a 3.5" hole saw is the perfect size for the outer diameter of the hose, a 90 degree drill makes the drilling a lot easier.

I haven't noticed any pressure drop in the cab yet, even with A/C on recirc and engine wide open, and only a bit of change in the engine sound.

 

Sounds like a win! So how did you like drilling a 3.5 inch hole in your truck? Pucker factor +10