Digital Sound Processors, who is using one?

so recently i installed a polk 6.5 component set along with a dayton rs75-4 for a 3 way setup,(6.5 is active, the dayton is on the polk crossover along with the tweeter) overall the sound is good, doors need deadening but i also need to EQ and time alignment.

whats been suggested on other audio sites is the miniDSP6x8
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/c-dsp-6x8

Those with a DSP, which one do you use, how is the ease of use?
Any suggestions when adding in a DSP and taking the time to adjust each channel?


The minidsp i linked above has a microphone accessory option, would it be safe to assume that will be needed for the time alignment setup, or do it just go about it by measuring distance and calculating how much to adjust for?

**once i am able to upgrade my amp selection i will go fully active and readjust as needed, so this is just a starting point.

 

Any Auto calibration options and functions to run a scan with a mic is really a half ass way of doing it imo. People can say what they want but you can really tell the difference btw the 2

 

I'm looking at purchasing the same unit with the microphone, the microphone would be used for tuning using the REW software. I suppose you could tune by ear without it though. I'm still new to the whole SQ setups so I don't have much for advice. I plan to post about it if I install one, if you get one please report back about it.

 

I am using the AudioControl THREE.2 and would never use anything else. LOVE THEM!

http://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/in-dash-processors/three-2/

 

this is not what he's looking for

 

Oh, my bad.... See that's what happens when you skim through threads and not pay attention... lol Maybe AudioControl has what he is looking for, maybe?

 

There are tons of Digital signal processors on the market, I'm currently working on bringing one in as part of my upcoming packages as well as a super slick LOC that has bluetooth built in and summation. The biggest problem is most people do not know how to properly use, and tune these devices. Active Sounds fun and all, but any SQ competitor will tell you it takes an obscene amount of time to get it Exactly how you need and want it. Now for those that have experience its super rewarding but its not a simple feat and can result in Terrible sound and damaged speakers

 

The miniDSP is getting pretty popular and seems to be a very capable unit. I'll admit I have zero experience working with an external unit, but I have a couple of years experience with the DSP in my DEH-80PRS. Regardless, the DSP features are about the same. What I do like about having it in the HU vs external units is the ability to adjust without a laptop. Sure you can get a separate controller unit, but that just adds to the price.

I tried auto tuning with a mic and it got the sound pretty good. I feel a mic and RTA software will be most beneficial for adjusting EQ. I also did the tape measure thing and entered distances. But I've had better success using technical tracks and tuning by ear. The single most useful technical track is correlated (mono) pink noise. I set all of my time alignment using a pink noise track. There's a doppler effect that you listen for when speakers are in perfect alignment. I would recommend you search for tuning information on the diymobileaudio forum. Those people know a lot and are very helpful. Everything I learned about tuning has come from reading through that forum.

 

I've used the original MiniDSP unit (2 in 4 out) and was quite happy with all of it, even the software. Their new unit should be very nice.

In my truck I run an Audison Bit1 and have for a long time. If you're running an active system and you're NOT running a DSP you're seriously missing the biggest benefits of an active system. I tried a JBL MS8 with the binural microphone for auto tuning...hated it. I traded a guy for his Audison Bit 1 and I've been very happy with it since then.

 

Im just saying that Active is a massive learning curve over Passive for most. My only voice of caution. Anyways, IM working on getting a super slick high end line out converter we use in the high end installs/ Troublesome Eurocars, as well as a decent DSP.

The question id like to ask is this: Whats the most important features to you, the end user ? With that said, If your in the market for a $300 DSP and find the values of a BIT 1 the most important then thats not an important attainable feature.

 

+1 on the BitOne. Brutally expensive, but one of only a few options that will take all the equalization crap Toyota puts into the out signal. Had mine for a couple of years, first in my Veloster and now in my Tacoma. IMHO one of the best DSP's on the market.

 

Bitone IS truly the top of the line benchmark

 

after a bit of research and tutorial videos, i pulled the trigger on the miniDSP 6x8. now it is just a waiting game since it ships from Hong Kong.
i think it should work just fine for what i am after. now i just need to figure out where i want to mount this thing.

 

It will arrive faster than you think. I was surprised how long mine took to get to Dallas.

Also, the floor under the passenger seat is a nice space. That's where my bit.1 is located. I have a JL HD900/5 under the drivers seat and then a set of RCAs running from the DSP over to the amp.

 

well thats where I had the previous amp so all I'd need to do is pull the power wire to the other side to mount the new amp.

any tips or helpful hints with the minidsp? I've already downloaded and messed around with the REW program a bit this morning and it's fairly self explanatory

 

The last MiniDSP software I ran was for the 2x4 in a box unit. It was very user friendly but I don't know how much it has changed. If you get hung up shoot me a message.

 

Also I'll mention Helix DSP or DSP Pro. Undoubtedly a powerful setup. Highly recommended.

 

I ran the Audison Bit 1 in my Tundra for my active setup. Simply amazing SQ.

 

Helix DSP is what I run and is among the leaders of the pack. A bit pricey, but way more stable with features you won't often find.

Imo, going active is simple. More so than implied. It is custom passives that require much work when going beyond shelf component sets. You can't just add or switch drivers with passives and expect optimal results. That's not how it works.

The only con in running active is the required amp channels. Running a processor does not require such unless you want to make that final step. The advantages of a processor outweigh any deck regardless if you stay passive, and learning to use one isn't hard. The Taco will sound far better with its use!

 

the DSP is showing up tomorrow, along with my new amp. unfortunately i have about 2 weeks until i have the time off to install everything. I am hoping the weather cooperates this friday so i can install sound deadening and get that part out of the way.