Digressive shocks and 6 speed manual

For those running a digressive valved shock setup on your 6MT truck.

Have you noticed if the "firmer" digressive shock characteristics eliminated some of the jerking that happens right after shifting into 2nd gear from 1st?

Example: On the street. Pulling out and need to get moving quick. Take off swiftly in 1st gear, rev to about 3500-4000 rpm, quickly shift into 2nd, let out the clutch and get back on the gas (jerk, jerk, jerk).

No matter how smooth I am with this, if I do it QUICKLY, it ain't smooth. It's jerky.

Only way to make it smooth is shift more slowly/release the clutch more slowly. Granny shift it. That ain't conducive to getting moving fast when you need to or want to.

And before you say learn how to drive stick....please save it.

Has anyone noticed this improving after ditching the stock (very soft all the time) off road suspension?

 

Placebo

 

Placebo effect is better than no effect at all.

P.s. I haven't changed my suspension. It's just a question

 

It just takes practice to learn exactly how to need to feather the clutch and throttle. I was super jerky for about the first year I drove my 07, but now I'm able to shift right at 5500 rpms and it's a hard pull, let off, and another pull.

Before it was more of a jerky start, hard pull, let off, tires squeak and back end hops a bit, then pulls haha.

I seriously doubt you're getting enough suspension travel for the valving to even start coming into play. What you need if you don't go off road is traction bars if you're already very proficient and familiar with your trucks clutch feel and throttle response.

 

One definite upgrade for me was 5100s though. They are digressive if I remember correctly. I just used my factory springs. $375 total before alignment. Didn't change the feel of shifting at high rpms though, just cornered better and less sway.

 

If you have to get moving quickly, that shift wont be smooth because first gear is so tall. The only way to shift it smooth is either shift at like 2k-2500, or just wait for the revs to fall where you can shift naturally.

Usually when I need to get going fast I do the former then just stand on it in 2nd. But Im mostly in the habit of not pulling out in front of people I used to when I drove a fast car as a result of this all now

 

I just dont pull out in front of other people.

 

Except when you stand on it in 2nd nothing happens because NO BALLS. LOL

 

I don't accept this answer lol. I like to drive quickly, but would love for that to be a little smoother. I guess it is what it is now.

 

If you short shift it at like 2500 youll be going about 10-12, second only loses maybe half a step and starts pulling hard enough for me to get out of the way at 3k, and my trucks on 315s and weighs 10000 pounds, dont underestimate it

 

Lol i get what you mean though. It is a little jerky, but i attribute that to me not having driven a manual in almost 4 years.

 

Neeeeed MOAR POWER for this technique.

....10,000 lbs? Naw.

 

Was being smart. But i do have plate bumpers and a bunch of crap. Its never gonna drive like something fast. At least we dont have autos

 

I haven't daily driven one in quite a few years. Maybe 6 years?

But I drive a stick shift truck at work, although it's a box truck 6 speed with a low gear that would rip a stump from the ground. I start in 2nd and drive it more like a dog leg 5 speed if there is such a thing.

 

Lol I know, I know.

Just looking for a way to make it even better. Been annoyed with it today. First world probs.

 

Good point.

 

RUH RUH RUH RUH… sound like that?

I'd have to agree, it's like Toyota set this thing up to force a nice.... glacial.... slow.... methodical... granny...……...shift lol.

I don't think changing the suspension is going to help.

Rev hang and inconsistent/delayed throttle response contributes, as does the delayed engagement introduced by the accumulator.

 

Glad it's not just me being particular about everything as usual. Anyways, already did the ADM and that did help with clutch control.

 

yeah accumulator delete will make clutch engagement true to pedal travel on a quick shift, it won't solve your problem 100% but it would improve the condition.

 

You have a 2020. You need more miles on the truck. Lots of ppl, including me, had issues with shifting until the transmission and clutch broke in properly 7-10K miles at least.