Direct battery connection at inverter bed connection?

Is there a line directly from the battery (not from the alternator) all the way back in the bed for the power inverter that I can use to power a set of rear lights? That way I wouldn't have to run a line all the way from the battery to the rear. It is okay if it is hot when only on ACC but I need it to be powered if truck isn't running. Maybe tap into a power line in the tow harness?

I guess I need a wiring diagram for the bed/bumper area. Sauce anyone?

 

If you have an extra 4pin off the tow harness you can tap off that, but aux has to be on.

 

I've got the 4/7 connector. Just need to get the pinouts I guess. They're LED lights so won't draw much current.

 

Most LEDs are less than .3A so you should be fine. There's a lot of places to put a switch, as well.

 

It's not clear whether you want 12 VDC or 120 VAC. "Directly from the battery" sounds like the first but "power inverter" sounds like the second.

 

I did one of these. Fuse at the battery and ran 8 gauge all the way down ..... needs about 22ft to run clean along the frame

 

Need 12VDC. Somehow the 12V gets to the inverter, right? So why couldn't I tap off that near the inverter instead of having to run a 22' 4AWG line down the frame?

 

Isn't the inverter in the console in the cab?

 

Leer makes a kit ($40) that gives you everything you need to install a triple 12 volt outlet in the bed. This includes enough wire, fuse, etc. to run a line directly to the battery. You don't even need to be using a Leer camper shell. I installed this myself. It involved crawling under the truck, but it was easy, just following the existing wiring harnesses.

 

The inverter is in the back of the cab. Red Circle shows the location.

Just run a fuse wire off the battery, don't mess with the 12V source to the invertor.

 

Tying it into the inverter is doing it the hard way. It doesn't even really accomplish what the OP wants to do.

 

Why tie into the inverter? You're only setting yourself up for failure by overloading that circuit if you decide to run the 12VDC and 120VAC at the same time.

Also, if the inverter were powered at all times, it would drain your battery quick, even with nothing is plugged into the AC receptacle.

You're much better off running your own wire from the battery.

 

/sigh
Had to investigate because I'm lazy. Okay, so I already have several wires hanging off the battery, is there a good power block that people recommend? I can get one of those, rewire everything off the battery into the block, and have a cleaner set of wiring hanging off the firewall. I guess "do it right or do it several times" is apropos.

 

Can't comment on a block but I will say to also invest in some convolex tubing. Running a wire that's directly connected to your battery and running the majority of the length of your frame gives plenty of opportunities for the wire to chafe/rub and short to the chassis. May also help when feeding the wire through the frame. It shouldn't get caught and tear/cut the insulation if you pull to hard.

 

Also fuse both the power and ground at the battery.

 

Here's a good set up

https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections...dhq-built-billet-battery-terminal-upgrade-kit

 

That's nice, but it doesn't have a rubber protector that goes over it and I don't trust having the positive terminal exposed like that. A covered power distribution bar would be best i think.

 

How many connections are coming off the battery?

Are you using Dual style (starting/deep cycle) with the additional terminals?

How heavy are the loads (winch?) or fridge/Led lighting?

Compact 3/8" (comes off battery positive)
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

30 Amp Fuse:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5175/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_-_30A

I'll use the dual version of that Terminal Fuse Block, one tap to a Redarc DC to DC to charge a house battery (cheap ass deep cycle for now). The second tap then will be used for Auxilary Lights.

Do run both positive and negative leads all the way back to the battery. A Wiring loom (plastic cover) is recommended.
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/LCP-250-500/Corrugated-Loom-LCP-250-500-Split/

Look for something like this for your load in the bed:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/43...er_12V_Socket_Dual_USB_Charger_Mini_Voltmeter

For the longest time, Waytek charged an outrageous handling fee. I got shipped 5 boxes, each with a $25 handling fee. Haven't ordered from them since. They have changed that policy, but double-check. I used Waytek as I wanted quality parts, so it was my go-to source but was bitten when they implemented the handling fee.

 

You can use the OEM one.

 

I bought a

$465 Redarc BCDC1225D REDARC 25A in-Vehicle DC to DC Charger with MPPT — Dual Input for Solar & Alternator Charging, Green Power Priority - 12 or 24V Battery Charger Suitable with AGM, Gel, Lithium LiFePO4 Batteries

Redarc BCDC1225D 6-8 months ago, still in box sadly, because I can't figure out where/how to mount a 2nd battery. For some reason Toyota stuck a brake coil thingy right where the 2nd battery would have gone so I guess only the OR model (I have a Sport) can put one there. I have the OVTunes pkg so ready for an AGM battery also.

I have a fridge now and will eventually have a winch as soon as I decide on what front bumper to get. Will also have more lights...can never have enough lights...right now there are two or three wires hanging off the factory battery positive terminal. It will get messy very quickly.